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Could a sh775 kill a stator?

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  • Grimly
    replied
    Originally posted by OldVet66 View Post
    I ran a damaged stator with a Compu-Fire for a year before it finally failed. Series R/R's are definitely easy on stators.
    Same here. I quite deliberately left in place an old stator which showed signs of being a bit heat-stressed from the OEM regulator, just to see how it would last with the SH-775. So far, it's still going strong.

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  • OldVet66
    replied
    I ran a damaged stator with a Compu-Fire for a year before it finally failed. Series R/R's are definitely easy on stators.

    Leave a comment:


  • Lorenzo
    replied
    @Nessism sorry I did not specify: the SH775;
    I agree with Steve also, on the matter of the battery; I've read enough literature to consider the AGM type, the best of both worlds. Some specimen with good reports by fellow bikers, point to a yellow cased one, incidentally with double posts (so two + and two - no need to bother the main wires for the odd ancillary install).
    Last edited by Lorenzo; 06-26-2019, 07:23 PM.

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  • Steve
    replied
    In your case, it won't matter which one you get, it will be the wrong one for a Lithium battery.

    That is, unless there is something new in the Lithium battery world that allows them to use a "standard" charging system.

    All of the lithium battery systems I have seen require a specialized charging curve that changes, depending on state of charge. Neither one of the R/R units you mention have that special curve.

    What is your incentive for the Lithium battery? Hopefully it's not for the "weight savings". Yeah, it's always good to keep weight down, but based on your other posts, you have an 850, which is the heaviest GS made. Reducing its weight by 7 or 8 pounds will not make a noticeable difference. You will be better off getting a good AGM (that's construction style, not a brand name) battery and using the SH775 R/R.

    .

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  • Nessism
    replied
    Originally posted by Lorenzo View Post
    No need to worry; posts in this board never die, they permeate the 'collective unconscious'...

    On the subject, my I suggest you and all newcomers to the GS frame of mind, read a book, called, if I'm not mistaken "Jung and the art of motorcycle maintenance".

    On a more prosaic note, go for the Shindengen but do it proppa, with the mandatory Furukawa connectors and the chopping of the green looped wire.

    Welcome on board.
    Shindengen makes both the FH012AA and the SH775, so I agree with your suggestion! Personally, I'd go for the SH775 under normal conditions, but with a lithium battery I'd do some more research first to understand how best to charge them. Some claim that voltage should be limited to 15 VDC for example, in which case both of these mentioned R/R's would be a bad choice.

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  • Lorenzo
    replied
    No need to worry; posts in this board never die, they permeate the 'collective unconscious'...

    On the subject, my I suggest you and all newcomers to the GS frame of mind, read a book, called, if I'm not mistaken "Jung and the art of motorcycle maintenance".

    On a more prosaic note, go for the Shindengen but do it proppa, with the mandatory Furukawa connectors and the chopping of the green looped wire.

    Welcome on board.

    Leave a comment:


  • drewpy
    Guest replied
    Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but its been a few years, any consensus on the series shunt debate? I'm trying to decide between FH012AA and sh775 so I don't kill a lithium battery I was leaning towards (and sourced Real not fake sh775) but now ill see what everyone says (new to the GS world)

    Leave a comment:


  • posplayr
    replied
    Originally posted by Gorminrider View Post
    Yes, it's hard to hold a poll here, i guess. Good thing to bump it up and capture more results...anyways, thanks for the links I'll slog through em.
    The poll is a living document and much more objective than some opinions.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gorminrider
    replied
    Yes, it's hard to hold a poll here, i guess. Good thing to bump it up and capture more results...anyways, thanks for the links I'll slog through em. Looks like someone's already been down every path.
    Last edited by Gorminrider; 12-01-2016, 02:12 PM.

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  • posplayr
    replied
    Originally posted by Gorminrider View Post
    oh! well,I'll read those. Thanks! never came across them before...


    well, I missed a lot of the original debates. I don't see the problem with an occassional "refresh" . ....as to "clear from recent polls", I see 1 voter with 4000 miles on a compufire, 25 with SH775s that are "still good" (no mileage though) etc. So I am not super- convinced by these polls yet, given I more than 4000 miles all my shunt types (and my own-wound stator). But I know too from various posts that some have more than 4000 miles on their series-type.
    And the combination of which stator combined with which R/R has a bearing on all this...it's all sort of moot to ME anyways, ( albeit interesting) because all my stators are "underwound".

    thinking: IF the stator was better matched to the actual loads of the bike, it wouldn't need all this "shunting" or "stoppage". This seems an even better argument to me as LEDs take over from incandescents.
    I'm the only one voted that my Compufire faild; it did not I just screwed up my selectuion.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gorminrider
    replied
    oh! well,I'll read those. Thanks! never came across them before...
    Digging this stuff up is just spreading misinformation as it doesn't apply to GS's as it clear from the recent polls for SH-775 service history of installed units .
    well, I missed a lot of the original debates. I don't see the problem with an occassional "refresh" . ....as to "clear from recent polls", I see 1 voter with 4000 miles on a compufire, 25 with SH775s that are "still good" (no mileage though) etc. So I am not super- convinced by these polls yet, given I more than 4000 miles all my shunt types (and my own-wound stator). But I know too from various posts that some have more than 4000 miles on their series-type.
    And the combination of which stator combined with which R/R has a bearing on all this...it's all sort of moot to ME anyways, ( albeit interesting) because all my stators are "underwound".

    thinking: IF the stator was better matched to the actual loads of the bike, it wouldn't need all this "shunting" or "stoppage". This seems an even better argument to me as LEDs take over from incandescents.

    Leave a comment:


  • Lorenzo
    replied
    Originally posted by DohcBikes View Post
    Not surprised your grandpa rides one, or wears the t-shirts. They are built soft and slow for older folks.
    post #42

    Reading this thread backwards (a sign of interest) I came about this comment and could not resist posting this video.

    Nor that I am an HD fan or have qualms with the poster, but sometimes you have to give Caesar what belongs to Caesar's...


    Last edited by Lorenzo; 12-01-2016, 09:48 AM.

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  • posplayr
    replied
    Originally posted by Gorminrider View Post
    yeah, well... I just find there's too much info on the internet...for instance, sh775's are apparently not for everyone.(there's an upgrade available?to a newer series -type?) Here's a post in an interesting thread per rpm breakdown of these. Not relevant unless you rev your bike to redline-still....
    Foreword: This is a reference thread only - for discussion and general Q&A regarding Generating System issues, please contribute to this thread Subsequent to originally writing this thread, my current endorsement for best choice R/R replacement is the Shindengen SH847 Series R/R (scroll down...


    There's a lot of talk about hot R/Rs here. I pretty much don't find it applicable because my ol' Honda ones get warmish in summer but not hot, compared to the OEM ones (eg: the OEM? Nippon Denso on the 650 functioned but was always hot!) as to why the difference in heat I am not sure.

    I have been reading a lot of stuff. One wonders why This battery manufacturer doesn't "get it" and still (as of june 2016 )wants you to get a mosfet type shunt. It's Lithium batteries, so maybe that's important. And they likely don't care about your stator ! either but still...




    and finally I found someone else that brings up the stator itself. It's an old thread but seems to talk about stators themselves in an interesting way.
    Facts about shunt-based regulators


    Timebandit is a hack; he thinks he can reinvent all of electrical engineering with pure logical deduction.

    I don't know why he defends SHUNT R/Rs but it is partially becuase of his associations with the Buell factory. Buell did not want to admit fault with a defective charging system, so TimBandit defends SHUNT and MOSFET R/Rs. I don't recall just now what they were doing but Buell was offering a retrofit rotor of some sort to finally solve the issue. It was an expensive $500+ fix. The details are in the Buell Superbike fourum.

    I has several ongoing feud with him a Buell fourum.


    They have an entire forum dedicated to chanrging issues so looks like TimeBandit is keeping things active over there.



    I logged in and did a search on Compufire.






    There are several members that installed Compufire s on their Buells and it greatly extended the life of the stators. I have not been back in several years now.
    The biggest issue with the Buell (based on Timebandit's data) is the bike is in thermal runaway and no matter what the R/R does teh stators cook.

    He has accused me of being a shill for USMotoman because I listed them as the cheapest source back in 2010.
    He ignored the fact that I listed the partnumber from another major supplier.
    He also accused me of fabricating all of the scope charts in the Series v.s. MOSFET comparison.

    He is tenacious, just misguided. This is about the time I quite paying any attention to this instrument the world approach to pseudo-engineering.



    Digging this stuff up is just spreading misinformation as it doesn't apply to GS's as it clear from the recent polls for SH-775 service history of installed units .
    Last edited by posplayr; 11-29-2016, 03:16 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gorminrider
    replied
    yeah, well... I just find there's too much info on the internet...for instance, sh775's are apparently not for everyone.(there's an upgrade available?to a newer series -type?) Here's a post in an interesting thread per rpm breakdown of these. Not relevant unless you rev your bike to redline-still....
    Foreword: This is a reference thread only - for discussion and general Q&A regarding Generating System issues, please contribute to this thread Subsequent to originally writing this thread, my current endorsement for best choice R/R replacement is the Shindengen SH847 Series R/R (scroll down...


    There's a lot of talk about hot R/Rs here. I pretty much don't find it applicable because my ol' Honda ones get warmish in summer but not hot, compared to the OEM ones (eg: the OEM? Nippon Denso on the 650 functioned but was always hot!) as to why the difference in heat I am not sure.

    I have been reading a lot of stuff. One wonders why This battery manufacturer doesn't "get it" and still (as of june 2016 )wants you to get a mosfet type shunt. It's Lithium batteries, so maybe that's important. And they likely don't care about your stator ! either but still...




    and finally I found someone else that brings up the stator itself. It's an old thread but seems to talk about stators themselves in an interesting way.
    Facts about shunt-based regulators

    Last edited by Gorminrider; 11-29-2016, 12:29 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gorminrider
    replied
    Not that anyone noticed but just a note per shorting stator as a test mentioned in post 58..? I am just cherry-picking through a pdf I found ("Design Considerations for Permanent Magnet Direct Drive
    Generators for Wind Energy Applications") that shorting their AC PM generators out can demagnetise the magnets, so maybe I won't do it! I can't see if they are using "ceramic" magnets but I expect so...
    and it makes sense given that I used to demagnetise cassette decks and screwdrivers with a demagnetiser which is uses ac fields!

    Hopefully this doesn't open up the question of the shunt doing the same thing but of course, it isn't always shunting either so it's counterfield? is weaker.
    Last edited by Gorminrider; 11-25-2016, 06:10 PM.

    Leave a comment:

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