New coils, new ignition, run off electricity

[timebombprod]

To answer that, one has to ask which do you do more? Idle the bike (run low rpms) or ride the bike (run mid to high rpms)? If your answer is you idle the bike more then get the fire mark as good as you can get it. If you like to ride the bike and like to wring out performance then proper full advance timing is more important.

Alright cool thanks gonna get the full mark set, it's a very tiny gap for either one when one is set a certain way, kept staring at it thinking if its spot on or not so it's pretty dang close.

[Killer2600]

which one would be better to have spot on?

To answer that, one has to ask which do you do more? Idle the bike (run low rpms) or ride the bike (run mid to high rpms)? If your answer is you idle the bike more then get the fire mark as good as you can get it. If you like to ride the bike and like to wring out performance then proper full advance timing is more important.

[timebombprod]

Back on here, did get to run bike and it ran pretty damn good for a good bit, gave it the beans and all hell broke loose.

Back on here because I noticed if I get the fully advanced mark timed spot on, the fire mark turns on a tad bit late, and if I get the fire mark spot on, the fully advanced will turn on a tad bit early, which one would be better to have spot on?

[timebombprod]

What you were seeing when rotating the rotor back and forth while you were between the full advance and "F" mark was the rotor triggering the ignition at varying degrees of advance. It's normal operation; at idle spark timing starts at "F" and works it way over the full advance mark as you raise engine speed, reaching full advance by 3,500 rpm.

Yeah i started realizing thats probably what was going on, just made sense once I thought about it because the light would go off before full advance, now if it only went off at full advance between those Marks then id really be questioning what's going on, I did explain it in words ( probably not the best explanation either) but yes I can agree a video demonstration will always show a much clearer view of what's going on.


Will possibly start up tomorrow, thanks for the help!

[Killer2600]

Indeed, video can be real helpful for explanations.

Your timing is as good as your going to get it, job well done.

What you were seeing when rotating the rotor back and forth while you were between the full advance and "F" mark was the rotor triggering the ignition at varying degrees of advance. It's normal operation; at idle spark timing starts at "F" and works it way over the full advance mark as you raise engine speed, reaching full advance by 3,500 rpm.

[timebombprod]

They fire independently, should be good aslong as you think timing seems fine from the video.


Carbs should be back today, mechanic called to ask what bike it's on and I told him, said I have the manual but I've never messed with the fuel levels and he cut me off saying it's fine I did a fine job rebuilding them. Always good to hear a mechanic say you did a good job!

[timebombprod]

Also gonna test spark and make sure the coils do fire independently right now

[timebombprod]

Made another video killer, I explain what i was talking about when timing light goes off before fully advanced between the full advance and fire mark.

Also show the wiggle test around full advance, and I move the crank backwards.

Sorry the dyna instructions are hard to understand for me I'm really a visual learner, hence why I dont give direct replies to what you tell me, it's because I dont really understand what it all means, really my fault.

Heres the vid

https://youtu.be/vLFOGH2iK-I

[Killer2600]

but it does turn on after passing that mark and alot earlier than full advance.

You'll have to clarify. When the crank is rotating clockwise, the test light comes on at the full advance mark (when the rotor is held fully advanced), goes off some degrees later, and comes back on again before coming back around to the full advance mark (again the rotor is held fully advanced)? I presume when it comes on unexpectedly that it goes off before you arrive back at the full advance mark, where it comes on again. Would this additional turn on happen to occur 180? from the initial full advance mark (rotor held fully advanced)? If that's the case you're picking up the alternate coil's sequence which you shouldn't.

Make sure both coils fire independently and not simultaneously by watching plugs 3 and 4 while rotating the crank. If they fire independent of one another then try using an incandescent test light instead of an LED test light. LED test lights can be very sensitive and trigger even without a lot of power.

If you don't have access to a incandescent test light and have confirmed that the coils are firing independently, verifying that plug #4 sparks when the 1-4 timing mark hits the marker combined with your previous test light adjustments is sufficient to know timing is correct.

Tech tip: You can make an incandescent test light from an incandescent automotive bulb. Such a test light would work fine for this kind of work.

[timebombprod]

Unfortunately, the light does go off when opening advance all the way but not at the full advance mark, and the battery died before I could finish. Charging battery and hoping I'll be able to get it right.

Does it matter which side it is going off from? When I was able to get the light to not turn on before going to full advance mark turning the motor clockwise I thought I was good, but it does turn on after passing that mark and alot earlier than full advance. If that's fine let me know

[timebombprod]

Unfortunately, the light does go off when opening advance all the way but not at the full advance mark, and the battery died before I could finish. Charging battery and hoping I'll be able to get it right.

[timebombprod]

Awesome, will try those quick tests and do a bit of cleaning, hopefully my carbs are done by tomorrow, and i should be riding!

[Killer2600]

Quick question, so with the new coils theres no label for which lead would go to which cylinder, but I'm guessing that since 1 and 4 fire at the same time, and 2 and 3 aswell, it doesnt matter which lead goes to which cylinder aslong as the correct lead is going to its corresponding cylinders.

So the leads that go to 1 and 4 could be swapped and thered be no effect. Just clarifying.

Correct...So long as the correct coil is going to the correct plugs all is good.

[timebombprod]

Quick question, so with the new coils theres no label for which lead would go to which cylinder, but I'm guessing that since 1 and 4 fire at the same time, and 2 and 3 aswell, it doesnt matter which lead goes to which cylinder aslong as the correct lead is going to its corresponding cylinders.

So the leads that go to 1 and 4 could be swapped and thered be no effect. Just clarifying.

[timebombprod]

Don't worry about when the test light turns back off. That's determined by the design of the dyna S pickup and for all intents and purposes not a concern of the installer. As for the "full" mark, it's actually the "fire" mark which is when the spark plug will fire when there is no advance. T is top dead center. When following the installation instructions for the dyna s and setting timing using the full advance mark you must be sure to hold the rotor in the full advanced position (fully rotated against the advance spring). If you don't do this your timing will be off.

Again just go by the installation directions of the dyna and adjust it so that your test light comes on right as the crank hits the full advance timing mark (with the rotor held in the full advance position). Don't worry about when the light goes back off after initially coming on. To clarify the dyna s instructions if you adjust the timing right your test light should go on or off as you rotate the crank clockwise and counter-clockwise AT the timing mark. Clockwise it should go from off to on as you hit the timing mark and if you go back the other way it should turn back off as you hit the timing mark.

Hope this helps.

PS: I want to add, your youtube video looks like it's right. The only more verification you could do is instead of just rotating the rotor between full advance and something less than full advance is to hold the rotor in the full advance and move the crank back and forth around the full advance timing mark as detailed in the above paragraph. But as is I'd say you have it spot on or close enough for anything that's not going to space.

Awesome, sounds pretty promising from what you could tell and I will be checking if the light goes off if moved in a different spot, and also spinning it the opposite way. Hopefully all is well and I can be back on by this week, thanks for the help!