Please check my Carb tune logic..........

If nobody caught my other thread about where to put the caliper to check the float level. Here is a pic showing exactly where you should place the caliper. Open the attachment in this posting

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=152080&page=3

You said to put the carbs in a vice and check with plastic tubing.But can i not check the level with engine running at idle? I just made 4 adapters for the bowls and plastic tubing.

Yes it is fine to check the fuel levels on the bike with it running. But if they need to be adjusted the carbs will have to be removed.

When I suggested he put them in a vice, it was because he had just finished rebuilding them. It is much easier to get the fuel level correct if the carbs are already off the bike.

[Steve]

Yes, that is actually the PERFECT way to do it.

As long as you can get your hands in there to remove the drain plugs and install your adapters.

Just be careful when you are done, that you don't spill gas on a hot engine and exhaust pipes.

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About fuel levels ?

You said to put the carbs in a vice and check with plastic tubing.But can i not check the level with engine running at idle? I just made 4 adapters for the bowls and plastic tubing.

Aaaaaahhh that makes sense Steve. So if I understand this correctly.......if my floats are set incorrectly the normal jets may not be getting the fuel at all. Thus if it only runs on full choke.........it may only be getting fuel from the auxiliary port (that "choke" tube). Hmmmm. The good thing about this is that before I did the tear down my "choke" was only working on cylinders 1 & 2. That tube you described was clogged on 3 & 4. So at least I know my "Choke" is working now. When my kids go to bed tonight I'll check the float levels.

Once again, and again, and again Thanks !!

The enrichener circuit is fed fuel by that long brass tube that sticks down into the bowl, so it will draw fuel no matter what the level. The 'regular' jets, however, are rather sensitive to fuel level. Note that the tolerance is only +/- 1mm, and that's a pretty small range.

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Now I'm starting to feel like I will not be able to get it right.

Although I am going to attempt what was mentioned earlier about adapting a clear tube so I can see the actual fuel level. Now it all makes sense to me thanks to this post I had no idea what was going on in the fuel bowl prior to this moment.

[Steve]

..., but isnt the "choke" more of a fuel thing than an actual choke so the fuel level might be part of it.

Thanks for putting "choke" in quotes.

The cold-starting circuits on our carbs are not like car carbs, which have a plate that covers the intake throat, actually "choking" the inlet. The circuit on our carbs is more of an "enrichener" system that opens an auxiliary port for fuel and air directly to the outlet of the carb. When it is activated (by lever, knob, whatever), the vacuum generated by the cylinders pulls the enrichened mixture through that port, bypassing the normal jets. That is why it is important to NOT touch the throttle when using the "choke" to start the bike.

The enrichener circuit is fed fuel by that long brass tube that sticks down into the bowl, so it will draw fuel no matter what the level. The 'regular' jets, however, are rather sensitive to fuel level. Note that the tolerance is only +/- 1mm, and that's a pretty small range.

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Um, perhaps I should stop distracting Steve from answering you as he likely knows much more than I do on this subject, but isnt the "choke" more of a fuel thing than an actual choke so the fuel level might be part of it.

One thing I did learn doing my carbs is it took me about 5 times of taking them out and putting them back before I got it right, everything matters and if you did not physically measure the float levels to be in spec you should even if that is not causing this issue.

I've changed the intake boots and O'rings, changed all O'rings in carbs after a good dip cleaning, changed boots going into the air box, changed air filter and sprayed it, resealed air box. I set the air and fuel screws to 1-1/2. I'll try fuel 3/4 and air 1-1/2. As far as the floats go I just don't understand how that could be causing this. If the floats were not allowing enough gas in wouldn't the bike be cutting in and out ? With maximum choke it has a consistent humm.

Once again thanks for everybody's help

[Steve]

Steve:

Go to tools, internet options, settings, and then make sure you set to refresh the page every time you visit

The "problem" is that I was still "visiting".

When I go to bed, I merely close the lid on the laptop and it goes into "sleep" mode.
In the morning, I open it up and it's ready to go.
This time, it did not refresh when I visited.

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Steve:

Go to tools, internet options, settings, and then make sure you set to refresh the page every time you visit

About the intake boots, I think when I did round 1 of my carbs I had the same issue and the intake boots did fix it for me, if you get the boot rings from cycle orings get the new bolts too. You will fight to get the old ones off but wont be anything worth using again.

As mentioned already, set the fuel screw to about 3/4 and the air screw to 1-1/2. I hope you changed the intake pipe boot O-rings while the carbs were off, they are very prone to leak due to deterioration of the O-rings and will cause the mixture to be lean - which will cause a creaping idle as the bike warms up.

That would be these little devils, pain in the arse to get to but well worth the effort..

[Steve]

Steve is getting cranky

Whaddaya mean, "cranky"?

He asked a question:

Almarconi what do you mean by 3/4-1 ? Does that mean 1 and 3/4 turns out for the fuel mixture ?

I answered it.

No, 1 and 3/4 turns would be written 1 3/4. What he meant is between 3/4 and 1 turn.

Apparently, when I opened up my computer this morning, the page had not been refreshed and several others had posted about the same thing.
What I saw on my screen was that I was the next poster.

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[Nessism]

As mentioned already, set the fuel screw to about 3/4 and the air screw to 1-1/2. I hope you changed the intake pipe boot O-rings while the carbs were off, they are very prone to leak due to deterioration of the O-rings and will cause the mixture to be lean - which will cause a creaping idle as the bike warms up.

No, 1 and 3/4 turns would be written 1 3/4. What he meant is between 3/4 and 1 turn.
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Steve is getting cranky i ran out. up the picture limit please.