Charging output -- stock parts.

[salty_monk]

There was me thinking the title of the thread gave it away...

I'm going to firing up the 750 with an FH012 fitted soon. It has grip heaters on it so I'll be able to report back what happens to that with the extra 30 watts of load from those on high.

[Steve]

This is all running the stock charging system?

Yep, did you notice this in the original post?

The stator wires have all the stock Suzuki colors, so I suspect that it is stock, or at least a stock replacement. The R/R also has all the stock colors, so again, it is either stock or a stock replacement. The only 'modification' is that the loop up to the non-existant headlight switch has already been bypassed and the output wire now goes straight to the battery (through a fuse, of course).

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This is all running the stock charging system? Any plans on that rewind in the stator page anytime soon to run a comparative? The one on the chop is, well mulch at best and a little heads up on what to look forward to when Im able to move forward. Good info all the way round though. Thanks.

[Steve]

THe 15 amp main fuse gives away the max output of the electrical systems. At 14 volts 15 amps is around 210 watts. If the stator combined with a magic regulator manages to exceed that the main fuse is going to pop eventually. Too much higher and some of the orange wires leaving the fuse box are going to need replacing with larger gauge to prevent problems.

In my opinion, the 15-amp fuse might be a clue, but I don't think it's the ultimate determination of the output.

If you look at a typical GS wiring diagram, the main fuse is between the battery and the R/R output. Beyond the R/R output connection is the ignition switch and the rest of the bike. Current goes from the battery, through the main fuse, then through the ignition switch, through the other fuses and finally to the ignition system so you can start the engine. Once the engine is running, the current leaves the R/R, but can go two directions when it gets to that junction; it can go to the ignition switch, fuse box, rest of the bike route, or it can go to the battery to recharge it. The 15-amp fuse only has to handle what the rest of the bike does not need, which will be considerably less than 15 amps. In fact, if you load the system to the point that the battery voltage is in the vicinity of 12.8, you will find that there is NO current going through the main fuse.

I agree that the wire size also gives a hint as to the expected current, I was just curious how much extra load the stock components might handle.

It's also important to realize that with that maximum load I was forcing on the system, the only loser was the battery (and maybe the wires, themselves). You won't "burn out" a shunt-style regulator by putting so much load on it that it's operating it below its shunting point, it will merely remain ON. The stator sees the same current, regardless of load on the bike, because it's either sent to the bike or shunted back through the stator and regulator.

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[duaneage]

THe 15 amp main fuse gives away the max output of the electrical systems. At 14 volts 15 amps is around 210 watts. If the stator combined with a magic regulator manages to exceed that the main fuse is going to pop eventually. Too much higher and some of the orange wires leaving the fuse box are going to need replacing with larger gauge to prevent problems.

Just about any RR is better than the original equipment ND box, and I would use an old SDG Honda RR before a chinese aftermarket regulator half it's size.

[Steve]

It was $29.99 for the FH009, shipped, and I am again splurging on a harness from Eastern Beaver for a complete charging harness for $40.

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I think I spent about $40 for my 08 CBR600RR FH008 shipped..
I haven't finished making the new harness for it yet.
I used connectors sets from Vintage Connections to replace the stock Honda plugs I couldn't find mates for.

Had I been thinking I would have used the Sumitomo Hybrid connector from Eastern beaver.

[Steve]

I'd be interested to see the same test results with a FH008 or FH012 R/R..

Remember this part?

Stay tuned.

I have an FH0012 already here and also an FH009. The 9 is rather similar to the 8 in size, but has a sixth wire, just like the Honda R/Rs we get from duaneage.
I have a new harness on order from Eastern Beaver, when it gets here, I'm going to do some playin' around.

If the FH009 proves to be a decent item, there will be NO excuse to not upgrade your curent R/R.
There are a BUNCH of them on eBay with a "Buy it Now" ranging between $15 and $25.

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I'd be interested to see the same test results with a FH008 or FH012 R/R..

Nerd Alert!

Seriously though, it will be interesting to see the results.

[Steve]

"Freebie" is getting closer to hitting the road. The fuel tank/petcock junction no longer leaks, after cleaning the flaking paint away, so I could run the engine long enough to do some serious charging system checks.

Last week I was able to determine that the charging system was working well after moving the R/R output wire directly to the battery terminal, but I wanted to see how well it was working. The stator wires have all the stock Suzuki colors, so I suspect that it is stock, or at least a stock replacement. The R/R also has all the stock colors, so again, it is either stock or a stock replacement. The only 'modification' is that the loop up to the non-existant headlight switch has already been bypassed and the output wire now goes straight to the battery (through a fuse, of course).

The test:
I ran the bike for a bit to warm it up and charge the battery a bit to recover from the load of starting the bike. I then recorded battery voltage in 500 rpm increments from idle (1000 rpm) on up. I wanted to see how well it would handle a bit of a load (55 watts), to simulate heated grips, extra lights, heated clothing, etc. I connected a sealed-beam headlight to the battery terminals and did the same voltage checks. I then decided to go overboard and turn on BOTH, the low- and high-beam filaments (total of 115 watts) and did the same voltage checks.

Here are the results:

Engine speed xxx No load xxx 55w extra xxx 115w extra
xxx 1000 xxxxxxxx 13.0 xxxxxx 12.4 xxxxxxxx 12.1
xxx 1500 xxxxxxxx 14.4 xxxxxx 12.7 xxxxxxxx 12.4
xxx 2000 xxxxxxxx 14.3 xxxxxx 13.4 xxxxxxxx 12.5
xxx 2500 xxxxxxxx 14.3 xxxxxx 14.4 xxxxxxxx 12.6
xxx 3000 xxxxxxxx 14.3 xxxxxx 14.4 xxxxxxxx 12.8
xxx 3500 xxxxxxxx 14.3 xxxxxx 14.4 xxxxxxxx 12.8
xxx 4000 xxxxxxxx 14.3 xxxxxx 14.4 xxxxxxxx 13.0
xxx 4500 xxxxxxxx 14.3 xxxxxx 14.4 xxxxxxxx 13.2
xxx 5000 xxxxxxxx 14.3 xxxxxx 14.4 xxxxxxxx 13.3

As you can see, a 55 watt load is rather easily overcome by running the engine at a mere 2500 rpm, but the 115 watt load is just barely compensated for by 4000 rpm.

If I had thought about it at the time, I could have grabbed an extra H4 bulb off the shelf to have 80 watt and 100 watt values, too, but you will just have to settle with this for now. I plan on doing some experimentation over the winter with different windings on a stator and some different regulators, so maybe I will include all the load values then.

Stay tuned.