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As requested...17" GS500 wheels...

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  • Mark M
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by makenzie71 View Post
    Mark, go measure the forks on your RMZ.


    If I ever do run with the inverted forks I'll be using RM250 because the steering stems are compatible and the bearings are going to be easy to swap around. What I'm going to do is either get two left forks or install a "left" fork leg in a "right" fork tube. Then I'll make some 1-piece clamp on caliper hangers to bolt to the fork legs so I can retain my dual discs and run an alloy wheel. I'll add that to my S4R-esque sssa to my "for gits and shiggles" list.
    I was thinking street bikes, myself. I have looked at the MX forks before and they would work, but not without issues. They have a large offset on the axle which reduces trail by a good 25mm over a center axle fork, you need to add another caliper hanger (as you mention), the spring rates and damping are way off for street use and you need to internally alter them to reduce travel. Even with all that, they are attractive because of the length and sophisticated damping systems. Current MX forks are so far ahead of street forks it is ridiculous.

    I have never run the numbers on the trail issue, but I would bet stability would become a significant problem with the smaller front wheel and fork offset.

    Mark

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  • makenzie71
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by Mark M View Post
    The 1100 forks are the longest USD from Suzuki. Can't say on other brands. You want the 954 upper triple, not lower. It has a gull wing design that has the tube clamping portions sitting lower than the center portion, which allows you to push the tubes down lower and gain ride height.

    Mark



    Mark, go measure the forks on your RMZ.


    If I ever do run with the inverted forks I'll be using RM250 because the steering stems are compatible and the bearings are going to be easy to swap around. What I'm going to do is either get two left forks or install a "left" fork leg in a "right" fork tube. Then I'll make some 1-piece clamp on caliper hangers to bolt to the fork legs so I can retain my dual discs and run an alloy wheel. I'll add that to my S4R-esque sssa to my "for gits and shiggles" list.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mark M
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by jed.only View Post
    the 1100 is the longest USD fork option available? did you use any sort of modded/swap lower triple (929/954 IIRC is the ticket)? would you care to let go of the stock upper triple if i needed it?
    The 1100 forks are the longest USD from Suzuki. Can't say on other brands. You want the 954 upper triple, not lower. It has a gull wing design that has the tube clamping portions sitting lower than the center portion, which allows you to push the tubes down lower and gain ride height.

    Makenzie is right, on this sort of project you get easy, fast or cheap. Any 2 of the 3... If you do not have the tools and skills to fab your own stuff, then expect to pay a premium for parts that fit fairly easily and to have others do the work for you. My choice for easiest fittment would be a complete front end off a water cooled GSXR1100, Bandit 1200 swing arm and 5.5" rear wheel with a 160 or 180 tire. If you prefer a conventional fork setup, the Bandit 1200 front end is also a direct bolt on. You will need to weld on fork stops (easy and the frame is steel) and shock mounts on the B12 swingarm (not as easy and you are dealing with aluminum).

    Makenzie is also correct on the forks, USD is largely a fashion look with very little benefit over a good set of conventional forks. Especially if you use a good fork brace on the conventional fork. The B12 forks will work every bit as well as the GSXR ones and they preserve some of the classic looks of your GS if you care.

    Makenzie, what size and brand of tires are you running on your GS500 rims? What are you planning on putting on when you need fresh rubber?

    Mark
    Last edited by Guest; 01-25-2009, 09:05 PM.

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  • makenzie71
    Guest replied
    Okay...for reference:


    To make the GS500 rear work best:


    16/39 sprockets


    Shave 8mm off the carrier side spacer, fill the gap on the other side with shims/washers or have a purpose built spacer cut.

    Enjoy. I just got the 16/39 setup going and it's...very...nice...

    Leave a comment:


  • jed.only
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by jwhelan65 View Post
    Jed, here is a pic of my 1100 front end for reference. It is a 93 GSXR 1100 I added the risers for the conversion in the second pic.




    the 1100 is the longest USD fork option available? did you use any sort of modded/swap lower triple (929/954 IIRC is the ticket)? would you care to let go of the stock upper triple if i needed it?

    Leave a comment:


  • jwhelan65
    Guest replied
    1100 front end

    Jed, here is a pic of my 1100 front end for reference. It is a 93 GSXR 1100 I added the risers for the conversion in the second pic.



    Leave a comment:


  • jed.only
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by makenzie71 View Post
    dude I could care less

    It's the rear wheel, yeah. Should have bearings and all...he's a nice guy, I can probably get him to include a sprocket carrier.

    shipping to 74133

    Leave a comment:


  • makenzie71
    Guest replied
    dude I could care less

    It's the rear wheel, yeah. Should have bearings and all...he's a nice guy, I can probably get him to include a sprocket carrier.

    Leave a comment:


  • jed.only
    Guest replied
    im going to start my own thread. i just realized i have stolen the spotlight from your upgrade. i am sorry.

    Last edited by Guest; 01-25-2009, 07:00 PM.

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  • jed.only
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by makenzie71 View Post
    Just to throw out there, Jed, I got someone who can get you a B4 or swoopy Kat 6 wheel (with rotor) for $150 plus shipping.

    rear wheel?

    Leave a comment:


  • makenzie71
    Guest replied
    Just to throw out there, Jed, I got someone who can get you a B4 or swoopy Kat 6 wheel (with rotor) for $150 plus shipping.

    Leave a comment:


  • makenzie71
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by jed.only View Post
    if money were no object, and you wanted something fairly easy to source that required no welding, what would it be? complete running gear. the target is radial tires, USD forks, and an upgraded swingarm.

    If money weren't an object...B12 forks, GS500 wheel up front, galfer wavies, widened swingarm (just have the stocker brought out another inch), B4 or B6 rear wheel.


    Inverted forks are over-hyped. There's a time and place for them but, unless you're doing something for ****s, it's not on an old GS1000. The B12 forks are a bolt on and are far more than you'll ever need. There's also no reason to need to run anythign wider thana 120/160 combo...you don't need anything more for the sake of traction and you want to keep the rotating setup as light as possible.


    If I were to do something for ****s, I would build a tubular swingarm akin to the S4R but with Paul Smart 1000 style suspension.

    Leave a comment:


  • jed.only
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by tone View Post
    Thats a big ask mate
    all the best stuff will require a little welding for lockstops & shock mounts



    no access to a welder and never welded before.

    Leave a comment:


  • tone
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by jed.only View Post
    if money were no object, and you wanted something fairly easy to source that required no welding, what would it be? complete running gear. the target is radial tires, USD forks, and an upgraded swingarm.
    Thats a big ask mate
    all the best stuff will require a little welding for lockstops & shock mounts

    Leave a comment:


  • jed.only
    Guest replied
    if money were no object, and you wanted something fairly easy to source that required no welding, what would it be? complete running gear. the target is radial tires, USD forks, and an upgraded swingarm.

    Leave a comment:

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