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Guest repliedOriginally posted by old_skool View Post
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by 5t341th View Postgot a question about my newtome RR.
its a SH232 6 wire unit. from my readings, the green wire is ground and black wire is "sense" wire. how important is it to attach the sense wire to switched power?
I did a test run of the RR and i did not wire the sense wire yet. when idling, it reads 13.5v
when reving higher than idle, the volts jump up to 15-16v @ around 4k rpm. headlight and parking light gets brighter considerably
i believe this is a bad thing right?
is it because my sense wire is not wired up yet? or is it a bad RR?
ps. my stator is brand new
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Guest repliedConnect the sense wire. Without it, there is no sense to the question.
Originally posted by 5t341th View Postgot a question about my newtome RR.
its a SH232 6 wire unit. from my readings, the green wire is ground and black wire is "sense" wire. how important is it to attach the sense wire to switched power?
I did a test run of the RR and i did not wire the sense wire yet. when idling, it reads 13.5v
when reving higher than idle, the volts jump up to 15-16v @ around 4k rpm. headlight and parking light gets brighter considerably
i believe this is a bad thing right?
is it because my sense wire is not wired up yet? or is it a bad RR?
ps. my stator is brand new
Leave a comment:
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Guest repliedgot a question about my newtome RR.
its a SH232 6 wire unit. from my readings, the green wire is ground and black wire is "sense" wire. how important is it to attach the sense wire to switched power?
I did a test run of the RR and i did not wire the sense wire yet. when idling, it reads 13.5v
when reving higher than idle, the volts jump up to 15-16v @ around 4k rpm. headlight and parking light gets brighter considerably
i believe this is a bad thing right?
is it because my sense wire is not wired up yet? or is it a bad RR?
ps. my stator is brand new
Leave a comment:
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by space pirates View PostOk, I want to discuss R/R's a little bit and the theory behind them and then what our bikes need.
At first glance, I thought *all* R/R's would be adequate. Get three-phase AC in, output 14v (or so) to the battery. Well, that isn't the case. It looks like there are single-phase R/R's and 6v R/R's (this is stated on the first page).
BUT! there will always be extreme cases like these, so we can't say "all" but perhaps "most?"
In *most* modern bikes, you'll have three-phase AC power to an R/R that charges a 12v battery. My next question was, why do we give some the thumbs up and others we don't? Current. Our bikes need an R/R that can support enough current. Old_skool mentions that the OEM R/R is 18amp, so it looks like we can boil down our R/R requirements to these three points:
1) Three-phase AC power (it has three input wires for a stator)
2) 12v DC output to battery
3) Rated to handle 18+ amps (I'd guess most modern bikes with a similar amount of electronics would meet this)
Please correct me if I am grossly overlooking something. Checking the approved R/R lists (and there are multiple, this one here and the one through basscliff site) makes it seems like there are only a handful that will work, but I can't see why a lot of others wouldn't work (bolt-on replacement/spacing aside).
Thoughts? Should I be taking these "approved R/R" lists more of as "known tested/good R/Rs" rather than "these are the only R/Rs that will work?"
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Guest repliedOk, I want to discuss R/R's a little bit and the theory behind them and then what our bikes need.
At first glance, I thought *all* R/R's would be adequate. Get three-phase AC in, output 14v (or so) to the battery. Well, that isn't the case. It looks like there are single-phase R/R's and 6v R/R's (this is stated on the first page).
BUT! there will always be extreme cases like these, so we can't say "all" but perhaps "most?"
In *most* modern bikes, you'll have three-phase AC power to an R/R that charges a 12v battery. My next question was, why do we give some the thumbs up and others we don't? Current. Our bikes need an R/R that can support enough current. Old_skool mentions that the OEM R/R is 18amp, so it looks like we can boil down our R/R requirements to these three points:
1) Three-phase AC power (it has three input wires for a stator)
2) 12v DC output to battery
3) Rated to handle 18+ amps (I'd guess most modern bikes with a similar amount of electronics would meet this)
Please correct me if I am grossly overlooking something. Checking the approved R/R lists (and there are multiple, this one here and the one through basscliff's site) makes it seems like there are only a handful that will work, but I can't see why a lot of others wouldn't work (bolt-on replacement/spacing aside).
Thoughts? Should I be taking these "approved R/R" lists more of as "known tested/good R/Rs" rather than "these are the only R/Rs that will work?"
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by old_skool View PostI've been an Ebay seller....and buyer since 2002, and I can count the bad experiences in the last 10 years on one hand, give the guy a chance to make it right, he may be a good seller. And, I'm sure you'll like the other RR much better, not only will it handle the charging duties better, especially if you add any amount of accessories later, it will dissipate the heat better as well, and that translates into longer life and less worries. Be sure to wire it right, any questions on that, drop me a pm when you get it, there's also plenty of tutorials, but sometimes it's just nice to talk to someone.
I hope this replacement works well, as I said before I have two other R/R's on there (including stock) and neither worked. According to the stator papers' test, the stator is good so I don't know what else would cause an R/R to blow (if it is me causing it and not just me buying faulty parts). I think the stator papers also failed me on "good r/r connection to battery positive" but my r/r was bad and the papers check the wiring before the r/r so I don't know. I also had the r/r wired directly to battery positive with a 20amp fuse if that matters.
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by spacepirates View PostI emailed the seller, he said that he would send the correct one and I'll send him back this one. I am a little leery of this guy though, what with ebay being ebay and all, but we'll see. I've still got jetting issues (and muffler issues! oh, and I need a new oil drain pan as that drain screw is stripped out) so I can keep working while I wait.
I had previously bought one off a kawasaki 700 atv, but it failed the diode test. ....of course, I didn't think to test it BEFORE i put it on
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Guest repliedI emailed the seller, he said that he would send the correct one and I'll send him back this one. I am a little leery of this guy though, what with ebay being ebay and all, but we'll see. I've still got jetting issues (and muffler issues! oh, and I need a new oil drain pan as that drain screw is stripped out) so I can keep working while I wait.
I had previously bought one off a kawasaki 700 atv, but it failed the diode test. ....of course, I didn't think to test it BEFORE i put it on
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by barnbiketom View Postit may work indeed, but why was it not the one you won? I'd be mad.
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by spacepirates View PostI just tried to buy a FH-011AA off ebay (that model # was clearly in the title) but received a SH650A-12 instead. Any chance that will work?
It has five unmarked leads/wires out.
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by spacepirates View PostI just tried to buy a FH-011AA off ebay (that model # was clearly in the title) but received a SH650A-12 instead. Any chance that will work?
It has five unmarked leads/wires out.
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Guest repliedit may work indeed, but why was it not the one you won? I'd be mad.
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Guest repliedI just tried to buy a FH-011AA off ebay (that model # was clearly in the title) but received a SH650A-12 instead. Any chance that will work?
It has five unmarked leads/wires out.
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Here is a simplified diagram showing the connections for a 6 wire R/R. Just omit the Brown wire for a 5 wire R/R. The R/R has doubled up wires for both (+) and (-) so it is actually an 8 wire as shown.
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