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GS1100- "Project NimRod"- Shafty
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Guest repliedcongrats. now ride it to death
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Guest repliedWHOO-HOO! Congrats!
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Guest repliedIT"S ALIVE!!!!!!
Put in 2 hours of test riding today. Front wheel clearance is good with being dropped around 1 inch in the trees. I have a bit of popping/farting once I let off the throttle. I need to replace intake boots and clean the ouside of the carbs. Carbs have already been rebuilt. I added a mount for my Sprint Evo to run "Speed Pro" for odometer, speedometer, telemetry and GPS.
Tomorrow will be full of taking care of little details such as zip ties on all loose wires, polishing and figuring out some mirror placements.
I added new 5/16 high pressure fuel line that I got at a marine store by the foot (they didn't have low pressure). I didn't want to spend $30 on 7mm oem line. I actually had to force it on pretty good on the carbs and the Honda CB petcock. Leaving the non-vacuumed Honda petcock in the on position and have no problems with the bike loosing fluid.
Wired the cone trailer light to the brake light switch for now. I want to discreetly mount an led bar above the license plate for brake and rewire the cone for running tail light. Maybe just get a small duel filament bulb and rework the tailight bulb assembly. I mounted the license plate under the tail but am thinking of moving it to the swingarm.
I really wanted to get the bike washed and polished before I post the final pics of the bike. I hope to do this over the weekend.
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Guest repliedBack side. I wanted to keep the stock mounting hook to secure it to the rod between the frame. The battery sits more shallow in the mount than stock...so I straightened it out and rebent it.
I better check my water levels in my battery from what I see in the last pic.
It's been in and out of the bike alot, so I probably have been responsible for the low levels.
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Guest repliedBattery mounting done. I cut up the old battery box then shaped and pounded on it. Coat of paint..and it mountes the battery width wise in the frame against the air box.
I'm using an old leather belt to secure the battery. I've seen it before in other bike applications. I've always got an old belt hanging in my closet if I notice this one wearing. The look fits with my cafe look I think.
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Guest repliedThats right! A shafty can look just fine. And even though the purists think you shouldn't chop (and they are just as entitled think that way, these are nice bikes) ..doesn't mean that you can't and have a nice final product that is still a GS.
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We'll have to start a shafty cafe club.
Keep going...
Who was that said ya cant make a cool cafe from a shaft drive bike again?
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Guest repliedDid mod after pic was taken. Thanks for your help posplayr
. Ill get some finished pics up tomorrow.
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Originally posted by Awall View PostSince I couldn't help myself from tearing into the rear electronics... I decided to solder all the connections and remove all the quick connect blocks. I also did Jim's one point ground from the R/R. I think I forgot to ground the starter solenoid because the bike won't start now and I ran out of daylight.
Since all the electronics are relocated to the bottom of the seat...and I did the one point ground...is the best way to ground the solenoid to the (-) battery or the wiring harness ground?
Once I figure out what's going on I hope to start her up tomorrow, and take it for a test drive.
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Guest repliedSince I couldn't help myself from tearing into the rear electronics... I decided to solder all the connections and remove all the quick connect blocks. I also did Jim's one point ground from the R/R. I think I forgot to ground the starter solenoid because the bike won't start now and I ran out of daylight.
Since all the electronics are relocated to the bottom of the seat...and I did the one point ground...is the best way to ground the solenoid to the (-) battery or the wiring harness ground?
Once I figure out what's going on I hope to start her up tomorrow, and take it for a test drive.
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Guest repliedI added this extra piping/trim between the bum stop cushion and the metal edge. Feel like it needed something to finish it off.
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Guest repliedHere is what the underside of my seat is looking like. I'm trying to make everything as neat as possible for times when I need to take it off. I don't forsee taking the seat off unless I have electrical issues. The full size battery will disconnect and come out the now open frame. I also want to install external battery connections just in case I need jump the bike in an emergency or charge overnight.
Everything fits fine in the open spaces between the crossmembers and replacing parts will be pretty simple now that they are layed out piece by piece.
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Guest repliedI figued as such. I just might go with a gel battery later..should be alittle smaller. Thank for the input Hoosier.
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Guest repliedNot with the draw on your system the starter places. The guage of wire alone would be prohibitive... I would be willing to bet just the headlamp uses enough watts to quickly kill the Sub-C pack. Of corse there is mathamatical formulas to figure it out.
Ohms law and such.
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Guest repliedEven though I could have buttoned up the bike to ride tomorrow...I just couldn't help but tear apart the battery area of the frame. I want to relocate and hide things as much as possible here. It's just a preference with the cafe racer look I want. I'm wanting to find a good way to mount everything on the bottom of the seat..safely and in a manner where I can access the fuse box and have enough ventilation. I will be moving the stock battery forward and sideways directly behind the airbox vent. It wont hide it for now but it stays near the stock location and gives me that uncluttered look. I have two other battery alternatives to the big stock battery to play with later. I have one small sealed battery 12v, 1.3ah - but don't know if it will be enough. I also have 12v, nimh (sub C) 3300mah packs from some r/c applications. ANY IMPUT ON THESE BATTERIES?
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