GS12OOSS Clone

[posplayr]

Would it still work and be accurate although the sensor was originally meant to be in water, but is now in oil?

The sensor is sensitive to temperature, nothing else (of any significance). In fact the only thing I can think of is relativistic effects. I need to get my "particle in a box" theory out for review.

Why not just use the original sensor that was matched to the Gauge?

The worst thing is to retread the existing hole for a different sender.

Would it still work and be accurate although the sensor was originally meant to be in water, but is now in oil?

[posplayr]

Sweet build! Subscribed.


I'm anxious to see how you will sort this one out because I will be facing a similar challenge later on with one of my projects. The gauge is from a water cooled bike.

Why not just use the original sensor that was matched to the Gauge?

The worst thing is to retread the existing hole for a different sender.

Sweet build! Subscribed.

I got everything to work on the gauge cluster (turn indicators, neutral, low fuel warning, hi-beams) except for the temp gauge. Still have to sort that one out yet.

I'm anxious to see how you will sort this one out because I will be facing a similar challenge later on with one of my projects. The gauge is from a water cooled bike.

Thanks for the part number!

[posplayr]

As I mentioned on an earlier post, I mounted a cigarette lighter plug where the empty hole of the ignition key switch was once located.

I got everything to work on the gauge cluster (turn indicators, neutral, low fuel warning, hi-beams) except for the temp gauge. Still have to sort that one out yet.

]

Very clean cockpit

Excuse me miss, do you need a light?

As I mentioned on an earlier post, I mounted a cigarette lighter plug where the empty hole of the ignition key switch was once located.

I got everything to work on the gauge cluster (turn indicators, neutral, low fuel warning, hi-beams) except for the temp gauge. Still have to sort that one out yet.

Turn Signals

Thanks.

Signals; not sure but I will find out. Actually I'm switching those and along adding the front signals with ones that have clear lenses with yellow bulbs.

The lights are nothing fancy. They are from a company called K&S and the part number of those I ended up on the bike was #25-8110, (mini stalk, black, clear lens with yellow bulbs).

Front signals


and rear.

[dorkburger]

I love how the project turned out....The Pa Pike also has one of my rubber footrest inserts....

Test Drive

Took it out for a test drive and had no issues other than I donated one of my clip on mirrors to the Pennsylvania turnpike. Still a runner and got it up to 120 MPH and felt no vibration or wobbles.

Here it is as of today. More pictures to come.

Thanks, I love the looks of my bone-stoke GS, but the Jimmy Carter turn signals have got to go.

Awesome! What rear signals are those?

Thanks.

Signals; not sure but I will find out. Actually I'm switching those and along adding the front signals with ones that have clear lenses with yellow bulbs.

Awesome! What rear signals are those?

[Rob S.]

It's gorgeous, Battleship. I would think that even if I weren't biased (I ride an 1100EZ).

I'm having a custom seat built right now from a guy in TN. He's been doing it 30 years on the side, and is an artist. He's done a million FZR1 seats, and he can do anything. It should be back in a couple weeks, but I'll let you know how it goes. I've looked at 1,000 GS seats, and not seen one that I like, so I have high hopes for his work and I gave him a laundry list of things I like/don't like. He's totally old school, but I'm building him a basic website. I'll hand it out once it's published.

Long story short: I think you need a custom seat. But the only ready-made seats are Corbin $460, and I don't like the shape. Sargents will re-do it for you, but it will be $600. This guy will be in the $250 range, and better than both.

-kevin

Did you every get your seat back? If so, can you throw up a picture so I can see his artistry in seat making?

Thanks.