New project Bike

[LAB3]

If it's been sitting awhile you might see that number go up after you have it up and running. At 120psi I'd move forward starting with the engine first before investing in tires, etc.

[salty_monk]

120 is the lower end of spec. I’d expect that with the way you’re doing it. The fact that they match is good....

I did the screwdriver bypass trick... from my tests each cylinder was at around 120. This is my first time doing a compression test. Also remember that the compression test I did was with the exhaust (Vance heins, 4-1) removed. Is that decent compression?

[LAB3]

I wouldn't have thought a compression test is going to tell you much at this point.

My thinking in suggesting it is to see if it's already toasted before going any further time and money wise.

[salty_monk]

I wouldn't have thought a compression test is going to tell you much at this point. You said you're going to pull the engine apart? If so you'll be able to see as you go. They are incredibly hard to kill.

My guess for what's in your oil is oil varnish. Too much to be part of the chain guides. Could be the remains of an old filter that's broken down. They are very hard to tune with those pods I see fitted, likely it was never jetted right.

Taking the oil pan off is easy. A bunch of 10mm bolts, tap it with a mallet & pull it off. You'll see the strainer as soon as you do. Good luck!

[LAB3]

Trying to do the compression test. But nothing happening when hitting the start button. Headlight taillights an turn signal work, horn trying to work.

What connects to the 2 prong connector under the right handlebar? There’s nothing connected right now.

I'm assuming you're referring to the green/yellow wires that go to the engine kill switch, you could just connect those or jumper them together to complete the circuit to the starter relay.

As to oil in the engine I'll let someone else chime in on that one in order to avoid being bombarded with out dated produce. You should probably run a google search or look around on youtube for instructions on doing a compression test. Generally you test it as-is then put some oil in the cylinders through the spark plug holes to help seal up any scoring on the cylinder walls.

Trying to do the compression test. But nothing happening when hitting the start button. Headlight taillights an turn signal work, horn trying to work.

What connects to the 2 prong connector under the right handlebar? There?s nothing connected right now.

Do I need to fill it back up with oil for the compression test?

[LAB3]

The motor turns. The right side spark plug holes have suction, the Left side it’s hard to tell if it has good suction, not sure if my finger was covering the hole that great. But they still blow air out. Also the inside of the clutch cover is nasty and the same as the oil filter area.

If it was my project I'd do a compression test to see if there's anything wrong with the cylinder bores or rings, you can do this by jump starting off a battery to spin the engine. If that turns out OK then I'd be looking to do what has already been suggested and dropping the pan to clean out the screen and anything else I can get a clean rag into to wipe that crud off. Then I'd run some kerosene through it to clean up the oiling system (with the starter turning the engine over) followed by another flush with a low cost motor oil that'll flush out the kerosene.

The motor turns. The right side spark plug holes have suction, the Left side it?s hard to tell if it has good suction, not sure if my finger was covering the hole that great. But they still blow air out. Also the inside of the clutch cover is nasty and the same as the oil filter area.

[Grimly]

Yep, and even if the strainer turns out to be clear, at least you KNOW it's clear, and needn't worry about it.
Honestly, I was quite surprised at the amount of muck trapped in mine, as the engine hadn't given the slightest sign of trouble, but if I'd left it for another year or two, it might have been a write-off.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Have you tried to spin the engine with a 19mm socket on the right end of the crank shaft, so you at least know that the motor turns? You have to take the signal generator generator cover off first. Take the spark plugs out and put a finger over each hole, in turn, as you turn the crank. Standing at the right side of the bike, be sure to only turn the engine clockwise. You should feel suction, alternating with air blowing your finger off the spark plug hole as you turn the crank. If no go, decide if you want to go any further, a full tear down is in your future. If the engine spins, and you have compression, carry on.

My best guess on the foreign substance, after seeing the pics, agree with Grimly, looks like maybe clutch drive plate friction material. Since you’ve already drained the oil, go ahead and take the clutch cover off and look at the plates, that will tell you. Also agree with dropping the oil pan and cleaning the oil pump strainer.

Hey guys, just checking if anyone can chime in on what they think the culprit is in the pictures I posted. Bits of clutch in the oil, or the bits of the cam chain guides in the oil? Also if it ends up being the clutch, I'm gonna have to drop the sump and clean the strainer like grimly said. Is there a thread I can follow to reference that.

Bits of clutch fibre.
My oil strainer was nearly clogged with it.
You need to drop the sump and clean the strainer, else the engine will go terminal.

Is there any way I can check if the engine isn't already terminal? It wasn't running and didn't come with a battery. I paid $100

IMG_0215 by David Torres, on IMG_0228 by David Torres, on IMG_0226 by David Torres, on IMG_0217 by David Torres, on Flickr