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GS 700 E removing air box hints?

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    GS 700 E removing air box hints?

    I am looking for some other way to remove the air box so that I can replace my intake gaskets on the engine. I would like to do this without removing the engine if possible. Anyone have any ideas? The only reason the air box has to come out to replace the gaskets/boots is because the screws are in there solid and i need to get an impact driver in there. Thanks again for your help hope for good news other than what I have read already.

    -Adam

    #2
    The same thing happened to me. After a year (literally) of deliberation, I came to the conclusion that I had only two possible courses of action:

    1. Remove the engine.

    2. Using a fine tooth hacksaw, cut the airbox in half down the center seam, remove it, then reinstall it and glue it back together in place.

    I chose the first. I have heard of a couple of others here from way back cutting and gluing it, but didn't try it myself.

    It is impossible to remove the airbox, intact, with the engine in place. If you spend any time on ebay looking for GS parts, you will notice old airboxes popping up from time to time for many models. People removed them to install pod filters, then put them on a shelf somewhere for years.

    I have yet to see one for a GS700. I think most folks who installed pods on their 700s cut the airbox up to remove it, then threw it away.
    sigpic

    SUZUKI:
    1978 GS1000E; 1980 GS1000G; 1982 GS650E; 1982 GS1100G; 1982 GS1100E; 1985 GS700ES
    HONDA: 1981 CB900F Super Sport
    KAWASAKI: 1981 KZ550A-2; 1984 ZX750A-2 (aka GPZ750); 1984 KZ700A-1
    YAMAHA: 1983 XJ750RK Seca

    Free speech is the foundation of an open society. Each time a society bans a word or phrase it deems “offensive”, it chips away at that very foundation upon which it was built.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Griffin View Post
      The same thing happened to me. After a year (literally) of deliberation, I came to the conclusion that I had only two possible courses of action:

      1. Remove the engine.

      2. Using a fine tooth hacksaw, cut the airbox in half down the center seam, remove it, then reinstall it and glue it back together in place.

      I chose the first. I have heard of a couple of others here from way back cutting and gluing it, but didn't try it myself.

      It is impossible to remove the airbox, intact, with the engine in place. If you spend any time on ebay looking for GS parts, you will notice old airboxes popping up from time to time for many models. People removed them to install pod filters, then put them on a shelf somewhere for years.
      I'm in the same boat. I want to(when I'm not trying to sell it) return my 700 to stock and did aquire a box through ebay many months ago. The guy I got it from metioned I'd likely have to remove the engine:shock:to install it. I do want it in there, removing the motor seems staight forward but I'm sure it would take me hours to do alone, if I could even wrestle the engine out. I have a 700 motor(also from eBay)..it's heavy!

      Originally posted by Griffin View Post
      I have yet to see one for a GS700. I think most folks who installed pods on their 700s cut the airbox up to remove it, then threw it away.
      One just ended recently, only one bid

      Is the earlier `83 750 box the same?

      Comment


        #4
        try this......

        I had a similiar problem with my 650. I got it out intact, but it was a trick.
        1. remove the air filter box.
        2. loosen the clamps that attach the airbox to the carbs. Pull airbox free from carbs.
        3. loosen the clamps that attach the carbs to the engine.
        4. slide the carbs down and out, being careful to detach the hoses and linkages that attach them.
        5. with the carbs out of the way, the airbox should just fall out.

        That's how it went for my 650, your 700 might be different. Ironically, when I got my Clymer manual in the mail a few days later, that is the exact way it described how to do it.

        Keep at it and you will figure something out, It went in in one piece, it should come out the same way, right.

        Comment


          #5
          To remove the intake boots, use vice grips and get a grip on the outer screw and turn to loosen. After the outer screw is out, grab the entire boot and turn it - the inner screw will loosen when the boot turns. Worked like a charm on my second 550 (took the airbox off on the first which was way more work).
          Last edited by Nessism; 09-28-2007, 02:54 PM.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by ScottMc1100L View Post

            Is the earlier `83 750 box the same?
            Apaprently so. They have the same Suzuki part number.
            sigpic

            SUZUKI:
            1978 GS1000E; 1980 GS1000G; 1982 GS650E; 1982 GS1100G; 1982 GS1100E; 1985 GS700ES
            HONDA: 1981 CB900F Super Sport
            KAWASAKI: 1981 KZ550A-2; 1984 ZX750A-2 (aka GPZ750); 1984 KZ700A-1
            YAMAHA: 1983 XJ750RK Seca

            Free speech is the foundation of an open society. Each time a society bans a word or phrase it deems “offensive”, it chips away at that very foundation upon which it was built.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by 82GS650GZ View Post

              That's how it went for my 650, your 700 might be different. Ironically, when I got my Clymer manual in the mail a few days later, that is the exact way it described how to do it.

              Keep at it and you will figure something out, It went in in one piece, it should come out the same way, right.
              Uh, no.

              The air box on this particular model has a narrow extension in the back that makes the box longer than the space between the engine and the frame tubes. I tried every conceivable way of positioning it (with the carbs removed), and it simply will not come out with the engine in place.

              I imagine that the airbox was installed at the factory the same way I reinstalled it later - insert airbox first, bolt in place, then insert engine.
              sigpic

              SUZUKI:
              1978 GS1000E; 1980 GS1000G; 1982 GS650E; 1982 GS1100G; 1982 GS1100E; 1985 GS700ES
              HONDA: 1981 CB900F Super Sport
              KAWASAKI: 1981 KZ550A-2; 1984 ZX750A-2 (aka GPZ750); 1984 KZ700A-1
              YAMAHA: 1983 XJ750RK Seca

              Free speech is the foundation of an open society. Each time a society bans a word or phrase it deems “offensive”, it chips away at that very foundation upon which it was built.

              Comment


                #8
                I tried figuring this out mine as well with no luck. That is one of the reasons I still have an air box with a drop in K&N. If I ever get the engery to get pods and try to dial them I will probably cut it out as clean as possible.



                Good Luck

                Comment


                  #9
                  How (not) to remove an airbox

                  I used a sawzall!
                  I was much younger then and lacked wisdom.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The airbox DOES NOT need to come out to replace the boots/gaskets, only the carbs do. Loosen the mounting bolts and move the airbox/plenum back as far as you can; this is not very far,to aid removing the carbs.

                    Dink

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Dink View Post
                      The airbox DOES NOT need to come out to replace the boots/gaskets, only the carbs do. Loosen the mounting bolts and move the airbox/plenum back as far as you can; this is not very far,to aid removing the carbs.

                      Dink
                      I think he's running into the same problem I did - getting the pot-metal intake bolts out with an impact driver, and not enough room between the airbox and the engine to get the impact in there.

                      I did eventually remove the entire g-d engine to replace four o-rings. I now have stainless steel allen head bolts holding the boots in place.
                      Last edited by Griffin; 09-28-2007, 10:01 PM.
                      sigpic

                      SUZUKI:
                      1978 GS1000E; 1980 GS1000G; 1982 GS650E; 1982 GS1100G; 1982 GS1100E; 1985 GS700ES
                      HONDA: 1981 CB900F Super Sport
                      KAWASAKI: 1981 KZ550A-2; 1984 ZX750A-2 (aka GPZ750); 1984 KZ700A-1
                      YAMAHA: 1983 XJ750RK Seca

                      Free speech is the foundation of an open society. Each time a society bans a word or phrase it deems “offensive”, it chips away at that very foundation upon which it was built.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Not what I wanted to hear....

                        Man.....I am running into the same trouble. Have to try the vice grip and pivot method Or maybe can find someone who has done this successfully??

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I have a complete air box for a 83 750e/ and as stated above same part # as the 700 if any one needs it 30.00 plus shipping PM me
                          1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
                          80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
                          1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished
                          83 gs750ed- first new purchase
                          85 EX500- vintage track weapon
                          1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
                          “Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
                          If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Steel Screws & Aluminum Blocks Don't Mix!

                            Originally posted by dueller View Post
                            Man.....I am running into the same trouble. Have to try the vice grip and pivot method Or maybe can find someone who has done this successfully??
                            Always a wrestling match! Think about it though...if you mung up the screws bad enough in trying to "save time" by not removing the engine, and you still have not removed them successfully, you're going to need to pull it anyways. Good luck!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I had to cut mine in half since its plastic glued.

                              I also have a complete new set of intake boots for sale if it saves you time to cut them up.

                              PM me if you want them.

                              Comment

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