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    Saddle Bag Mounts

    Hey all I got a 82 GS650G. The bike came with a set of hard saddlebags and a vetter fairing on it. I quickly removed both when I got the bike, but as of late I really want to re-Mount the saddle bags back on. Can any of you folks shoot me a pic or post it on what you used to mount your saddle bags. The PO had some jerry rigged mounts that, although functional, had the bags mounted at a extremely weird angle. Thanks in advance.....:-D

    #2
    Hey there,

    Can't help you on the mounts, But I have an 81 650G and I want hard bags too. So, are yours suzuki? If not what are they? and if you please don't mind, please follow up with this post when mounting, would really help me when my time comes

    thanks!!!

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      #3
      See if this helps:-

      http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_mountrack.htm

      It's how I did mine, though mine are on a separate mounting rack, and this mounts the rack to the bike.

      I can get pics if this approach would help you.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by maro View Post
        Hey there,

        Can't help you on the mounts, But I have an 81 650G and I want hard bags too. So, are yours suzuki? If not what are they? and if you please don't mind, please follow up with this post when mounting, would really help me when my time comes

        thanks!!!
        Hello fellow 650G guy, the bags I have are of unknown origin. They have suzuki emblems on them but I am unsure of the actual mfg. When I get home i'll take a closer look and post more info/pics.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Pete Logan View Post
          See if this helps:-

          http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_mountrack.htm

          It's how I did mine, though mine are on a separate mounting rack, and this mounts the rack to the bike.

          I can get pics if this approach would help you.
          Hey pete,

          thanks for the reply. Any pics would be greatly appreciated. That page was a bit on the confusing side. I did take a look for universal mounts and it seems that they are just some bent round stock. I took a look here from work (I do computer work in a machine shop) and I can get some 5/16 steel rod, 6ft., for under 10 bucks. I think i'm gonna order some of that and try and bend me up some rails.....

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by MellowMoodz View Post
            Hey pete,

            thanks for the reply. Any pics would be greatly appreciated. That page was a bit on the confusing side. I did take a look for universal mounts and it seems that they are just some bent round stock. I took a look here from work (I do computer work in a machine shop) and I can get some 5/16 steel rod, 6ft., for under 10 bucks. I think i'm gonna order some of that and try and bend me up some rails.....
            Two posts - 8 pictures. This is the left side of the bike, but the right side is identical.

            Here's a general view. There are two straps. They are both flat bar stock 25mm x 4.5mm (roughly 1in x 1/6in). The long one goes from the passenger footpeg mount, around the shock, connects to the lower front mounting of the mounting rack, and finally connects again to both the rear top mounting point of the rack and to the original turn signal mount, which is replaced by a new mount provided by the rack. This is the strap that does all the work.

            The second, short, strap goes from the top front mounting point on the rack to the top shock mount.



            I had to use a longer bolt on the footpeg mount to accommodate the extra thickness of the bar. What looks like a spacer isn't - it's a doohickey that has a rubber buffer on it underneath.



            The curve around the shock needs to be sufficiently generous to allow for the shock changing angle slightly as it works.

            I found it easiest to form the first kink in a vice, then the curve using a hammer and a wooden log the right diameter, then back to the vice for the return kink. This thickness of mild steel cold bends easily enough.

            Depending on your setup, the curve may need to be asymmetrical like mine to line up properly with the two end mounting points. Mine had to kick in a little after rounding the shock, and therefore also had to be spaced off from the rack at the lower front mounting point.



            Then we connect to the bottom front mounting point on the rack. Again, this requires a longer bolt, because in order to line up for the top mount, the strap has to be spaced off behind the rack - YMMV - see next post.

            Last edited by Guest; 05-08-2008, 07:06 AM.

            Comment


              #7
              Part 2.

              Here you can see the spacer that sets the strap off from the rack so that it lines up with the top rear mount. It's just a small piece of steel tube cut to length and slid over the mounting bolt.



              And here, the top rear rack mount, it's mounting bracket and the original flasher mount are all connected together with a single bolt/nut. The strap is simply slid into place between the original rack mount and it's normal position.



              Here's a slightly better view.



              And finally, the short top strap that goes from the top front rack mount to the top shock mounting.

              This is the one that is referred to as 'maybe necessary'. It's not strictly required to hold the rack in place, which is all done by the single long strap, but it may help to stop the top front of the boxes being affected by wind pressure at speed. It's so simple I couldn't see the point of taking any risks, so fitted it.

              Hope all that helps, and if you want any more info or pics just say. Cheers.

              Comment


                #8
                Addendum to the above:-

                I had forgotten that there is another reason for the extra return and spacing behind the shock. The box fits using a tongue which slots into the front of the rack, and a clip at the back.

                As well as aligning the strap to the rear top mount, which could be done anywhere, the return shown in pic 3 of the first post has to be done there so that the strap clears the part of the box that sticks through the rack.

                This may not be an issue with other designs, but is an example that there may be other considerations in getting the strap shape right.

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                  #9
                  Thanks Pete

                  Thanks a bunch for the great pictures. This give me everything I believe to get the bags mounted. Super helpful and much appreciated. Right now I'm winding up a new motor install in my 4Runner, but this is my next project on the list....:-D

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                    #10
                    Glad to help.

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