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I've f%$#& had it with brakes

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    #16
    Fvck it. Put a wooden seat on it, cut off the fenders and make it a Cafe! Who needs brakes!
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #17
      Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
      Fvck it. Put a wooden seat on it, cut off the fenders and make it a Cafe! Who needs brakes!
      HEY!!! My cafe's ALWAYS have brakes. Good ones! and wooden seats are so passe` man. Get with the times! Its all 'glass now man!!

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        #18
        Originally posted by J_C View Post
        I believe it, its a pain in the rear to make sure that splitter is air free. I'll price out the goodrich lines + hardware and post back. How does the routing work with the double lines?
        One down each fork leg, just like stock, only you'll have to measure to see how long your new lines will need to be. I think you need to add an inch or two to your measurement for the fitting or something like that.

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          #19
          Caliper banjos - 2 x $9.59
          Double MC banjo - $7.14
          2 brake lines (guesstimated) - $45

          Total (guesstimated) - $72 + shipping

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            #20
            That sounds about right.... If I was going to do mine again I would put a single line down to one caliper... then loop a short line over the top of the fender to the other caliper.

            In fact I may still do that, perhaps you can use one of my long ones & we can get two new short ones...

            By the way - the lines aren't your problem.. I ran stock lines with the same setup as you for at least 8k miles with no problems & mine were not new like yours, just flushed.

            I have calipers & master cylinders here.... we can Ebay all your parts when finished or something to give me some sort of return. Let's try to sort it out at the weekend or something. Maybe we can have a joint garage day with Ed... Could do with a hand to put the electronic ignition into my Falcon anyway, maybe two birds one stone.

            Dan
            1980 GS1000G - Sold
            1978 GS1000E - Finished!
            1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
            1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
            2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
            1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
            2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

            www.parasiticsanalytics.com

            TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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              #21
              Too much salt where you at. I'll take the Falcon.
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                #22
                $1800 to you
                1980 GS1000G - Sold
                1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

                www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                Comment


                  #23
                  What's a falcon??

                  I love garage days! I'm in!

                  Yeah, I agree lines are most likely not the issue. I still suspect that that 14mm mc isn't pushing enough fluid through, but I'll know for sure when I get the 5/8" mc on tomorrow.

                  I have brand new ferodo platinum pads I can't return (since I already opened the packages) that I put on yesterday, so I'm going to try like hell to make this work with my calipers. But I do love garage days =]

                  As for the lines, sounds like an awesome idea. Not sure your line would be long enough for the L though...

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                    #24
                    I'm pretty sure the offside would do your near side.... mine have a bit of slack in them anyhow. We can always have a measure up.

                    A Falcon:



                    This one is a 62 with an uprated engine (200ci), axle etc. Looks much better in the pic than in the flesh

                    Dan
                    Last edited by salty_monk; 07-31-2008, 03:33 AM.
                    1980 GS1000G - Sold
                    1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                    1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                    1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                    2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                    1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                    2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

                    www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                    TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                    Comment


                      #25
                      OOHHHHHH I definitely want to help on it (I'd love to use someone else's money for a change )


                      Yeah let's measure one of these days!

                      Comment


                        #26
                        If money is a concern, Earl's (in Lawndale) is the way to go for the lines.

                        Hose is $2.99/foot x 5
                        Straight banjo - $7.04 each x 2
                        Angle banjo - $8.24 x 2

                        Whole thing should cost $50 with tax.

                        The guy at Earl's is pretty cool. You can ask him to crimp one straight banjo on each end of a piece of hose for you. That way you only need to cut the hose in half, and install an angled banjo on each end. Saves a little work. And please don't worry about the bolt on hose ends, they are MORE reliable than the bolt-on adapter ends that those Z1 Goodridge hoses use.

                        If it were me, I'd change the lines but I don't think that's the problem. Master is suspect to me.

                        Let me know if you need any help. I'm in for a garage day.
                        Ed

                        To measure is to know.

                        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                          #27
                          You guys are jerks. I wanna play too. Screw it. Im goin home

                          Comment


                            #28
                            A trick I learned from my friend

                            If your tryed everthing and no luck try this.
                            Lean or postion your bike so that the air has the straightest path to the M/C. Let your bike sit for 30 min. Then just tap the handle with your fingers. All you want is, To just barely move the piston back and fourth about 1/8 of an inch and the bubbles with come up throught the M/C. It will take some time but it works.
                            And one more thing the colder the lines are the better

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                              #29
                              My mc theory has been proven incorrect, as the 5/8 can still be pulled into the bar, unless double pumped. Almost positive its air free. Clean crystal clear fluid was coming out at the calipers. I tried cb's trick at the mc and did get some bubbles coming out for a time, but it stopped after a time. I did all the same tricks as before.

                              I have a hard time imagining it, but I suppose the lines could be causing this. Would it be worth a trip to earl's?


                              edit: yes I'm now so frusterated I'm willing to throw money at the problem to make it go away.
                              Last edited by Guest; 07-31-2008, 02:30 PM.

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                                #30
                                Originally posted by J_C View Post
                                My mc theory has been proven incorrect, as the 5/8 can still be pulled into the bar, unless double pumped. Almost positive its air free. Clean crystal clear fluid was coming out at the calipers. I tried cb's trick at the mc and did get some bubbles coming out for a time, but it stopped after a time. I did all the same tricks as before.

                                I have a hard time imagining it, but I suppose the lines could be causing this. Would it be worth a trip to earl's?


                                edit: yes I'm now so frusterated I'm willing to throw money at the problem to make it go away.

                                Try working backwards from the caliper bleeders. First fill the MC then crack the banjo bolt. Now fit some clear hose over the left caliper bleeder with a squeeeze bottle full of brake fluid attached to it. Place some rag around the banjo area to protect your paint from the fluid. Open the bleeder and force the fluid into the caliper and back through the lines until clear fluid flows out the banjo opening. Repeat this on the right caliper. Tighten the MC banjo while the clear fluid is flowing. You have just completely eliminated air from the system from below the MC banjo, including the contensious tee fitting under the tree. Air likes to travel upwards so this system works a treat.

                                Check that the smaller of the two holes in the bottom of the MC reseviour is not blocked. This hole allows fluid to return from the line back to the MC after the brakes have been released. When blocked, air gets trapped foward of the piston and is difficult to expell. The blockage is not often apparant until you remove the brake lines.
                                It is also there to allow for natural expansion of the fluid within the brake system when the ambient temperatures rise significantly. Mine blocked and would cause the brakes to drag after the bike had been sitting in the sun all day.

                                Good luck.
                                Last edited by 49er; 07-31-2008, 03:11 PM.
                                The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................

                                GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
                                GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
                                GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
                                GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold

                                http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000001.jpg
                                http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000581.jpg

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