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Yet another Coil Relay Mod (with Dyna S)

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    Yet another Coil Relay Mod (with Dyna S)

    Well I did a Coil Relay Mod on my GS1100ED and as I thought about how to do it, I did not want to butcher my harness or really add any non OEM looking wiring.

    I might have over though this, but I think the result are pretty clean and I know how some of GSR's like to keep it clean.

    Note: There is no reason to dissturb the wiring at the coils using this method. The coils are powered by the original harness from the ignitor connector to the coils using the O/W wires.

    EDIT: Note the pdf on page 3/7 shows LH switch It should read RH switch




    Enjoy

    Pos

    Edit:

    For anybody in the US these Tyco Relays (formerly Bosch) are apparently environmentally sealed and really are only marginally more expensive.

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=330-070


    Some background on Relays.

    Technical Info posts that are deemed to be important or popular will be placed here for easier access. If you feel a post should be moved from the Technical Info forum to here then PM the Administrator with your request.
    Last edited by posplayr; 06-04-2015, 03:55 PM.

    #2
    Hey Pos,

    That's one very informative and well laid out description of "how to".
    Can i ask, would this work on my 650Kat too? I've seen people talk of the relay mod many times but i wonder, is it something to do as a "must have" or is it something you guy's do when somethings failed or failing?

    While my bikes in the project stage and i'm currently at the point of renewing and replacing / modifying wiring, would you consider this to be a "must do" mod? Would you recommend any other electrical mods that would be beneficial to carry out at this early stage of my build? I have standard coils and electronic ignition.

    TIA for any comments, ta.

    Comment


      #3
      Yaddy

      Thanks for you kind comments.

      The only real answer to your request is a set of overall Electrical Health recommendations to supplement the material already posted and to pull things together into one place.

      I have recently done several posts, but I'm thinking now that I have gotten feedback on a bunch of this stuff, I can pull it all together and summarize a specific set of recommendations.

      Of course in the interim do your "Power and Grounding"

      Technical Info posts that are deemed to be important or popular will be placed here for easier access. If you feel a post should be moved from the Technical Info forum to here then PM the Administrator with your request.


      Jim

      Comment


        #4
        Hey Jim,

        Ya, i've seen a few of your posts about electrickery, and been amused at some of the arguments, i mean, debates you get into on the subject. I love the diagrams and stuff that always acompany your posts, it's all just above my head though, .

        Bribird has already given me a few pointers on the grounding, i was just wondering for instance:

        If you bought a brand spanking new GS from a time-capsule with no known faults, would you consider any electrickery mods to still be worthy. If so, these are what i'd like to carry out while i've got an open loom to mess with. (i'm not insinuating that my bike is brand new or anything, just that i don't know of any faults as yet, having never ridden it).

        I'll take a look at that link you offered and see what else i can find, many thanks for your reply.

        Comment


          #5
          Yaddy

          here is a picture where you can see the blue end grounds for the harness ring lugs restored as well as all of the single point leads from the R/R mount. The only other things missing from when I took the pic was a ground to frame ground.

          This forum contains old posts which may have information which may be useful. It is a closed forum in that you can not post here any longer. Please post your questions in the other technical forums.


          Besides these grounds make sure your fuse box is clean and that is the bulk of it.

          A FH012AA would also be nice
          This represents new technology and is arguably a breakthrough considering the many limitation/compromises of the GS charging.; RustyBronc was working on a full list of alternates. Most of the bigger modern Yamahas use it. including 2006+ FJR's . Check the first couple posts in that link. Matchless has also be compiling the larger list.
          I have paid about $75 when I find one. Rusty has gotten them for as little at $25. Just gotta look.
          Jim

          http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...9&postcount=81

          Comment


            #6
            What a bunch of gobbley goop! *

            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by posplayr View Post
              Matchless has also be compiling the larger list.
              I have paid about $75 when I find one. Rusty has gotten them for as little at $25. Just gotta look.
              Jim
              How about a FH011AA (FET, tall finned model) for 12.50 'ish plus shipping on the 'bay... missed it by that much. (sorry Matchless)

              I hooked up my FH010AB FET r/r... all the chassis grounds (loads) connected to the frame, r/r negative y'ed to the battery negative and to the frame (12 Ga).
              no more chassis (load) negatives to the battery.

              I replaced the original bullet connectors at the stator, with new "good quality" bullets. dropped the un-necessary loop to the headlight. all connectors were crimped, soldered and shrink tubed.
              I even put the stator connections back in the original clear sleeves.

              now all I need is a stator core to rewind to a heavy duty equivalent. (yes my oem works fine) and we-be a testin'.

              ***Back to your regularly scheduled thread...
              Last edited by rustybronco; 05-19-2009, 04:33 PM.
              De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

              http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks Posplayer. Great job on the pictorial!

                Comment


                  #9
                  oshanac

                  Thanks for the Kudos, if there is anything unclear in the explaination or would help let me know, I can add it to the description.

                  It might have to be adapted for other models depending upon how much they deviated from the 80-83 750/1100's.

                  Pos

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks! I will consider the relay mod.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      whats the benefit..

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I only spent $10 on my coil relay mod.
                        (Just a fresh spool of 14ga wire.)
                        Everything else I had laying around.

                        Even my relay came from a junk car.
                        (I believe in recycling all automotive stuff whenever possible.)


                        I made the mistake of using solid copper wire instead of automotive wire...so I crimped, soldered, wrapped and then taped, then insulated again.

                        The bike never ran so good!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by kb_air View Post
                          whats the benefit..
                          Some bikes have particularly dirty wiring harnesses. After travelling through all the dirty connections, the voltage at the coils might be several volts less than battery voltage. The coil relay mod basically bypasses all those connections by using a relay to run power straight from the battery (through a fuse, of course) to the coils. The relay is switched by the wires that used to power the coils, so everything operates just like it should.

                          Bottom line: if your coil voltage is really close to battery voltage, you won't notice any improvement.

                          .
                          sigpic
                          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                          Family Portrait
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                          Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                          (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Steve View Post
                            Some bikes have particularly dirty wiring harnesses. After travelling through all the dirty connections, the voltage at the coils might be several volts less than battery voltage. The coil relay mod basically bypasses all those connections by using a relay to run power straight from the battery (through a fuse, of course) to the coils. The relay is switched by the wires that used to power the coils, so everything operates just like it should.

                            Bottom line: if your coil voltage is really close to battery voltage, you won't notice any improvement.

                            .

                            One data point on my GS1100ED with new harness, new ignirion switch , new right hand control within a year I was seeing only 10.5V at the coils with 12.8V at the battery and the bike was getting harder and harder to start (even with Accel blue spark coils). After the mod it starts instantly.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I know I am resurrecting an old thread, Jim, but a couple quick questions:

                              #1. Do you still recommend powering the 12v relay from the "aux" output on the stock fuse block? I plan to do this, since the relay will be mounted on the electrics plate, using one of the factory R/R mounting holes and it makes for a shorter (& neater) wire run.

                              #2. The relay will be protected via the main fuse, so the 12v lead from "aux" (+) to the 30 pin won't need to be protected by an inline fuse, correct?

                              I am finally beginning the install of the shiny new OEM harness & I don't want to bugger it up with any dumb mistakes.

                              I have a 12g fused line (30A fuse) which fits perfectly, and also made a 12g un-fused wire to fit as well.

                              I also plan on doing the RH switch mods detailed here:



                              Also have a new stator from Rick's & SH775. Stator will be wired directly to the R/R, and am also using a SPG. Just in case you were wondering
                              Last edited by Cassius086; 11-10-2014, 05:50 PM. Reason: Because I am paranoid I'll screw something up, that is why.
                              Mike

                              1982 GS1100EZ

                              Text messages with my youngest brother Daniel right after he was paralyzed:

                              Me: Hey Dan-O. Just wanted to say howdy & love ya!

                              Dan-O: Howdy and Love you too. Doing good, feeling good.

                              Me: Give 'em hell, Little Bro!

                              Dan-O: Roger that!

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