Anybody recognize this voltage regulator/recifier?

[Nessism]

I'm not familiar with the crimper tool you're talking about. Sounds too expensive anyway.

$15 too much for you? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97420

Regarding grounding that R/R, it might not work if you don't. Look close at the wires to see where the ground path runs. And for heavens sakes, don't use the rubber mounted battery like Suzuki did.

[ddaniels]

$15 too much for you? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97420

Regarding grounding that R/R, it might not work if you don't. Look close at the wires to see where the ground path runs. And for heavens sakes, don't use the rubber mounted battery like Suzuki did.

I have one of those, but not the ratcheting type. Requires hand strength.

I'm definitely going to ground directly to the negative battery terminal. But first I need to find out if the R/R is good. What setting on the multimeter do I go to to test it? Mine has DC V, AC V, DC A, and Ohms. Do I have the correct kind to do the test spelled out in the stator papers?

[sschering]

I have the RTL ratchet crimper from Vintage Connections.
It's $35 but well worth it..
It comes with the dies for open barrel connectors.
Those are the OEM type.. It makes beautiful factory looking crimps.

http://www.vintageconnections.com/

I have to do the R/R plugs tonight. I can take pics of the crimps and post em if you want.

[almarconi]

Do I have the correct kind to do the test spelled out in the stator papers?

You should be fine with your multimeter. You'll need a fully charged battery to test the system.

[ddaniels]

If I read the stator papers correctly (always a possibility that I didn't) you have to disconnect the R/R completely to test it. The battery would not be in the loop. I am I wrong?

[bwringer]

You disconnect only the yellow stator wires to do the testing. The battery remains "in the loop", and the positive and ground wires from the regulator remain hooked up.

You need a fully charged battery in good shape because the bike will be running for a short time but won't be charging while you have the stator disconnected. A decent battery will power the coils and ignition just fine for this short time.

Also, your voltage readings will be highly suspect if the battery isn't up to snuff.

[salty_monk]

Which comes back to the fact that you might as well get this properly hooked up with good grounds (even temporary ones) before running the test.

There is a very good chance that if the stator checks out ok your problem might only be either bad stator to RR connections, or a bad ground caused by the OEM problem of grounding it out through a rubber mounted box!

Dan

[ddaniels]

Thanks for the help. I'm going to have to wait to test it then since I have to clean the carbs before I can even start this bike. The whole issue arose when I got it home Sunday night and wanted to crank it over, but the battery was down to low. So, I hooked up the battery charger and started cranking. Before anything happened smoke started coming up form the left side. I found out one of the yellow wires going to the stator, well actually on the stator side of the connection, had started to melt the insulation. The bike was all wet from the drive home in the rain and it has been suggested that moisture plus a bad contact probably caused the smoking and melting. So, at this point, I'm not sure if I trust the R/R to hookit back up. Is there any cause for alarm on my part that maybe that problem will happen again? Or was it just because it was wet? The connector between those two wires is now black. I did charge the battery up in the interim and it seems to be holding a charge at about 13.8 Volts sitting on the work bench.

[ddaniels]

Oh, and don't worry, it'll be hooked up with all new connectors and the R/R to stator connections crimped together and shrinkwrapped, as well as the R/R properly grounded to the negative side of the battery.

[twr1776]

While you have the battery box out pull the main ground wire from the battery to the motor connection and clean the crap out of it, grease and re-install. Everything starts there.

[salty_monk]

In the world of RR 's size could be a benefit... Hefty heat sink on that thing.

[ddaniels]

I'm in the process of redoing connections. This bike has been modified electrically, one of which is the turn signals. Wierd setup. There's on of the little metal looking flasher units like you see under the dash of a car up front, that's wired in to a toggle switch mounted on the gauge cluster. I haven't figured out how that works yet. I'm going to get rid of that mess and try and get it back to stock. But, I suspect the turn signal flasher unit is bad. Plus, there's some kind of little clear plastic electrical thingie taped to the same metal plate that the fuse box is mounted on with two sided tape and several red wires going to it. I don't know if that's stock or not, but I don't think so. The wiring just doesn't look quite right on this thing. Much to sort out before I can even get to my car cleaning.

[ddaniels]

I meant carb cleaning.

[almarconi]

When was the last time the valves were adjusted? You might want to add that to your to do list.

[Steve]

... This bike has been modified electrically, one of which is the turn signals. Wierd setup. There's on of the little metal looking flasher units like you see under the dash of a car up front, that's wired in to a toggle switch mounted on the gauge cluster. I haven't figured out how that works yet. ...

Sounds like there might have been an attempt to do a 4-way flasher setup.

.