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    fork seal removal

    Well I finally got the forks appart . You guys were right not as hard as it appeared to be. Now I just need to know the best way to get these stubborn fork oil seals out. I was reading in some past posts that people have bought a puller from their local automotive store. What would I ask for when I go in there?
    I didnt do it I swear !!

    --------------------------
    1982 GS850G

    1980 GS1100L

    #2
    That would be a circlip pliers, you need to remove the clip first, than the seals come out fairly easy.

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      #3
      I got the clip out but the seals just dont seem to want to budge. I'm pretty sure they are the original seals.
      I didnt do it I swear !!

      --------------------------
      1982 GS850G

      1980 GS1100L

      Comment


        #4
        I pried mine out.
        Be carful.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #5
          Just treat the fork tubes like a slide hammer and extend them a fraction of an inch every time you slam them longer.

          .
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          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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            #6
            What happens if I already have the fork tube out?
            I didnt do it I swear !!

            --------------------------
            1982 GS850G

            1980 GS1100L

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Steve View Post
              Just treat the fork tubes like a slide hammer and extend them a fraction of an inch every time you slam them longer.

              .
              I know what you're thinking because I've done a few fork seals on different models. On this model the bottom comes out through the seal so you end up with the empty lower forks with the seal intact.
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by kparkfan View Post
                What happens if I already have the fork tube out?
                Use a screwdriver and a piece of leather to protect the lower forks.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                  #9
                  Work your way all around to loosen it up first; prying as you go. then pry harder in one spot. she'll go flying (don't forget to protect the tube!).
                  De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                  http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

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                    #10
                    Just to add to what Rustybronco said..I take the propane torch and heat the tube up a bit..not a lot but just enough to"soften" the rubber around the old seal a bit. then i use some laquer thinner and clean the mating surfaces real good before inserting the new seals. You wanna be sure to put the new ones in flat to the tube.. not cockeyed going in. Use a piece of PVC or wood dowel that will just fit the ID of the tube and tap the seal in with that. seems that if they are kinked just a little they like to leak.
                    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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                      #11
                      I used a tire iron and it popped right out.

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