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Thread: Charging System QUICK TEST

  1. #11
    posplayr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Do Little View Post
    You know what else would be great, a guide to using a voltmeter as related to a motorcycle. Like explaining what systems use what voltage and what to look for when testing differnt systems and how the settings work. All I ever see is "turn it to this and test," and my voltmeter never seems to have the exact setting specified, and I don't really understand voltmeters so I don't trust myself to improvise. Or links to some good articles on the subject would work as well.
    You would be best to read the manual for your own device. Basically it will

    • read a DC Voltage
    • read a AC Voltage
    • read a DC Current
    • read ohms

    Look in the manual for those sections. If you still need something more general search Google but your manual should be your main refererence. as there are differences between digital and analog meters and the specific settings for automatic v.s. manual settings.
    Read about Charging Quick Test GS Charging Health GS Stator

    "The smallest giant of mankind, is he who stands on the shoulders of a larger giant who himself stands on the shoulders of yet a larger giant, and therefore sees the most light from GOD." Posplayr 2017 adapted from : Bernard of Chartres


  2. #12
    koolaid_kid Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Do Little View Post
    You know what else would be great, a guide to using a voltmeter as related to a motorcycle. Like explaining what systems use what voltage and what to look for when testing differnt systems and how the settings work. All I ever see is "turn it to this and test," and my voltmeter never seems to have the exact setting specified, and I don't really understand voltmeters so I don't trust myself to improvise. Or links to some good articles on the subject would work as well.
    There are many explanations out there, including videos:
    http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sugexp=...w=1639&bih=886
    The biggest problem is there are also lots of different types of multimeters out there. Dials (a.k.a. analog) are all but obsolete, but you can still find them if that floats your boat. There are also clamp-style current meters, but their other functions appear to be limited in range (for the most part). Auto-sensing multimeters are also out there, although I have not personally used any. The most common are your standard digital readout multimeters.
    I would select a couple that show digital multimeters of your type and read, then watch a video or two.
    Hope this helps.
    (You posted whilst I was researching, Jim, but this might help him a bit.)

  3. #13
    TPL Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Do Little View Post
    You know what else would be great, a guide to using a voltmeter as related to a motorcycle. Like explaining what systems use what voltage and what to look for when testing differnt systems and how the settings work. All I ever see is "turn it to this and test," and my voltmeter never seems to have the exact setting specified, and I don't really understand voltmeters so I don't trust myself to improvise. Or links to some good articles on the subject would work as well.
    A multimeter is very easy to use, Many have an "auto" setting that you can start with. read the lit you get with it and understand the difference between alternating current and direct current. Ohms is simply the amount of resistance and effects the flow (amps) of current. Think of a straw with water flowing through it, squeeze the straw a bit and the flow slows down, that is resistance and the same is true with electrical systems. Your stator puts out raw alternating current AC, the Rectifier circuit within the R/R converts the AC to the usable DC, direct current that the bikes systems run on.

  4. #14
    jamie furman Guest

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    thanks will give it a try, but even if that is the problem why the loud noise? I have other GS's that even when the battery is almost dead they barely crank and then click but don't make that loud metallic noise.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamie furman View Post
    thanks will give it a try, but even if that is the problem why the loud noise? I have other GS's that even when the battery is almost dead they barely crank and then click but don't make that loud metallic noise.
    Which thread are you posting to?
    Read about Charging Quick Test GS Charging Health GS Stator

    "The smallest giant of mankind, is he who stands on the shoulders of a larger giant who himself stands on the shoulders of yet a larger giant, and therefore sees the most light from GOD." Posplayr 2017 adapted from : Bernard of Chartres


  6. #16
    kckershovel Guest

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    key off 12.56 key on not running 12.1 engine running all rpm 12.1 key off 12.56

  7. #17
    posplayr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kckershovel View Post
    key off 12.56 key on not running 12.1 engine running all rpm 12.1 key off 12.56
    stator; revised phase B tests
    Read about Charging Quick Test GS Charging Health GS Stator

    "The smallest giant of mankind, is he who stands on the shoulders of a larger giant who himself stands on the shoulders of yet a larger giant, and therefore sees the most light from GOD." Posplayr 2017 adapted from : Bernard of Chartres


  8. #18
    bwanna Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by kckershovel View Post
    key off 12.56 key on not running 12.1 engine running all rpm 12.1 key off 12.56
    Sounds like the stator might have a problem. Posplayer's tests for the r/r and the stator are the best and will give an accurate indication of what the problem is.

  9. #19
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    Question Quick test results and a question for you

    Pos - as discussed instead of having it it connected directly to the battery like discussed in post #44 here, I connected my Compufire 55402 to the red wire in the harness at the "T" which on my bike is like 10" upstream from the old factory R/R plug (see photos) and ever since my old R/at blew and boiled my battery and popped all of my LED's, I've wanted a new battery so I got a new one today and am still trickle charging it so on with the connections.

    The "T" was crimped with a brass crimp, wrapped in a thick blue electrical type tape, and the wires in the harness there are very clean and pretty much pristine. The harness looked factory wrapped without any openings or typical gummy residue that seems to happen when unravelled (at least until I handled then with my grimy gloves) so I can only assume that it was all stock. I tinned the leads and soldered and shrink wrapped my 10 gauge hot wire from the new R/R into the "T" and here are my test results:

    1.) key off................12.9


    2.) key on 12.5


    3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....14.3


    4.) at 2500 rpm 14.3


    5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.2


    6.) key off.....13.4 (after about 20 seconds)

    Results seem ok to me other than being a tenth of a volt lower at 5000RPM but I will test again soon, and install my new battery as well.

    Here's my "T" after unwrapping, there are 4 red wires here. 2 that go upstream towards the headlight/main harness, and 2 that come from the fuse box plug (one that is always hot, straight from the battery, and one that T's off from the fuse box but isn't hot unless the pigtail is plugged in):



    After I had already cut the brass crimp and unravelled the tape a bit further I found this - another blue piece of thick blue tape with a short lead taped along with the red running towards the headlamp. The photo below shows it removed. I can only assume that was the "foot or leg" of the T and I could have connected from the R/R here but I had already cut it and I wanted to slip some shrink wrapping over everything to seal against the elements anyway.



    My question is where do I put the fuse - in between where I spliced in and the fuse box? Seems pointless, since the fuse box is (well, fused :-) ) 10 inches away from where I tapped into the T... Is this different on other bikes? I suppose for clarity I should draw it up. I've seen some of your drawings, maybe I'll take a crack at that and upload it in the morning from work.
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  10. #20
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    If you are using a 5 position fuse box , on of these is labeled main and there is no need for another fuse. Also this has nothing to do with quick test. You should start another thread.
    Read about Charging Quick Test GS Charging Health GS Stator

    "The smallest giant of mankind, is he who stands on the shoulders of a larger giant who himself stands on the shoulders of yet a larger giant, and therefore sees the most light from GOD." Posplayr 2017 adapted from : Bernard of Chartres


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