Step 3 - test the regulator/rectifier

[Guest]

Hey Guys...and gals.

Just did the above step to test my regulator/rectifier

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfaq.htm

It basically tells you to do the specific wire configurations and then reverse them. They all went as explained except one of them. Specifically the connection between the RED wire and the BLACK/WHITE.

I do not get connectivity when I have the positive lead on the BLACK/WHITE and the negative lead on the RED. Is this a typo or is my R/R bad?

Any thoughts? I'm having a problem with my battery staying charged, but I'm thinking it's a power drain somewhere, because when I hook up a amp meter between the positive battery terminal inline with the positive battery cable I get a .001 reading. This tells me there is a drain someplace.

It stops when I pull the main fuse. But not any of the others.

[tom203]

Hey Guys...and gals.

Just did the above step to test my regulator/rectifier

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfaq.htm

It basically tells you to do the specific wire configurations and then reverse them. They all went as explained except one of them. Specifically the connection between the RED wire and the BLACK/WHITE.

Any thoughts? I'm having a problem with my battery staying charged, but I'm thinking it's a power drain somewhere, because when I hook up a amp meter between the positive battery terminal inline with the positive battery cable I get a .001 reading. This tells me there is a drain someplace.

It stops when I pull the main fuse. But not any of the others.

As was asked in later post, what r/r are you using?
If you're going to check diodes on the r/r, I'd get a multimeter with a diode test function- they are cheap. The idea is to discover if the diodes allow current in one direction (with slight voltage drop), but block it in opposite direction completely.The diode test feature will show a slight drop-about .60 volt in forward direction, but no continuity when leads are reversed. This is a very crude test for the r/r.

[posplayr]

Hey Guys...and gals.

Just did the above step to test my regulator/rectifier

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfaq.htm

It basically tells you to do the specific wire configurations and then reverse them. They all went as explained except one of them. Specifically the connection between the RED wire and the BLACK/WHITE.

I do not get connectivity when I have the positive lead on the BLACK/WHITE and the negative lead on the RED. Is this a typo or is my R/R bad?

Any thoughts? I'm having a problem with my battery staying charged, but I'm thinking it's a power drain somewhere, because when I hook up a amp meter between the positive battery terminal inline with the positive battery cable I get a .001 reading. This tells me there is a drain someplace.

It stops when I pull the main fuse. But not any of the others.

1 milli amp is a very low current, and about 1/10 of the 0.01 amps you were reporting in the previous thread. Have you put the volt meter onto your battery and done a simple battery test? It could be your battery is just not holding a charge. Is the top of the battery clean. use some baking soda to clean it off. 0.001 amps could be discharging across the top of the battery. The bike uses 14 amp running down the road at 5K RPM in comparision. That is 14,000:1

Want to just get a feel for how the charging is working? Do a Quick_Test

[posplayr]

Hey Guys...and gals.

Just did the above step to test my regulator/rectifier

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfaq.htm

It basically tells you to do the specific wire configurations and then reverse them. They all went as explained except one of them. Specifically the connection between the RED wire and the BLACK/WHITE.

I do not get connectivity when I have the positive lead on the BLACK/WHITE and the negative lead on the RED. Is this a typo or is my R/R bad?

Any thoughts? I'm having a problem with my battery staying charged, but I'm thinking it's a power drain somewhere, because when I hook up a amp meter between the positive battery terminal inline with the positive battery cable I get a .001 reading. This tells me there is a drain someplace.

It stops when I pull the main fuse. But not any of the others.

not sure there is a typo but I just look at the Phase C tests and all of the R/R tests involve a measurement of either (+) or (-) and one of the other yellow wires. There is no test involving (+) and (-) of any kind.

As Tom said this is a crude test basically designed to measure the functionality of 6 diode bridge. Forward/reverse diode tests of 3 upper legs and forward/reveres diode tests of the lower 3 diodes. 6x2=12 tests. The tests are grouped in to 4 steps of three stator wires per also equaling 12 tests.

I never do this test and infact it will only work older legacy SHUNT type (FET type will not work and SERIES type will not work).

It also ignores the control circtry that probably pulls some current when there is a positive voltage on the (+) out and negative on a stator yellow wire.

It is a crude test at best.

[081dbx64]

oops a typo...my current draw was .01 amps.

[tom203]

oops a typo...my current draw was .01 amps.

What kind of r/r? 5 or 6 wires sticking out of it?

[posplayr]

What kind of r/r? 5 or 6 wires sticking out of it?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1297543&postcount=3

stock R/R