Voltage Leak .01 amps

[posplayr]

I was thinking about the electrosport. That's what the stator papers said? Is that a good choice.

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[081dbx64]

****..

Well perhaps my R/R was bad...but the new one did not solve my current drain problem. I still get a current drain if I pull the bottom three fuses that are being fed by the orange wire from the ignition switch. So that tells me it's not anything connected to the orange wire.

So that just leaves things connected to the red wire or main fuse.

All right that leaves the gray and brown wires coming out of the switch. It looks like the gray feeds the lighting switch. Not sure what the brown feeds. Looks like the park function.???


This is starting to drive me crazy. So to isolate this problem once my battery is charged again I will pull the gray or brown and see if the current draw goes away. Then I can just start moving through what ever circuit I'm having a problem with.

Somebody tell me if my logic is right? I guess this leaves the ignition switch or the light switch?

[Steve]

If you are measuring current drain through the MAIN fuse when the bike is turned OFF, there are only two places it can go: 1. through the r/r, 2: through the ignition switch. The gray and brown wires you are looking at are both fed by the LIGHTS fuse. The brown wire goes to the tail light, the gray wire feeds about everything else that lights up. When the ignition switch is put in to the PARK position, the red wire from the battery is connected to the brown wire to light up only the tail light. When the ignition switch is in the ON position, the gray wire that powers all the other lights is connected to the tail light to power it, too.

Check the ignition switch area for dirt and/or corrosion to make sure there is nothing conductive in there. You can unplug the r/r from the system to make sure that it's not the drain. Beyond that, you are going to have to look for a chafed wire or contamination in a connector.

.

[bakalorz]

****..

Well perhaps my R/R was bad...but the new one did not solve my current drain problem. I still get a current drain if I pull the bottom three fuses that are being fed by the orange wire from the ignition switch. So that tells me it's not anything connected to the orange wire.

So that just leaves things connected to the red wire or main fuse.

All right that leaves the gray and brown wires coming out of the switch. It looks like the gray feeds the lighting switch. Not sure what the brown feeds. Looks like the park function.???


This is starting to drive me crazy. So to isolate this problem once my battery is charged again I will pull the gray or brown and see if the current draw goes away. Then I can just start moving through what ever circuit I'm having a problem with.

Somebody tell me if my logic is right? I guess this leaves the ignition switch or the light switch?

A .01 amp leak is not a major problem.
It won't cause problems running your bike.
in 100 hours (four days) it will have drained 1 amp-hour out of the battery.
in 1400 hours (about 2 months) it will completely discharge the battery.

If you ride your bike every week or two it won't matter at all.
If you ride less than that then pop the main fuse or charge every week or two.

I suspect that a slight drain for the trigger circuit of the R/R is not completely abnormal.
To confirm thats what it is, just disconnect the positive wire of the r/r and see if your drain disappears.

[081dbx64]

If I disconnect the red wire from the R/R it goes away. If I leave it connected my battery drains over night every time. If I disconnect it it does not drain. Brand new R/R.

I also disconnected all the orange wires from the fuse box...still does not solve the problem. I disconnected the ignition switch in the headlight and it still does not go away.

What next?

[081dbx64]

If I pull the red or yellow wire on the wireing harness from the R/R it goes away. My stator puts out 70 volts or so... I'm really scratching my head here. The only thing left is the red wire from the R/R. I know it ends up at the ignition switch but I disconneded the switch. I suppose it could be the starter solenoid.

Will check that now..just by pass and go directly to battery.

Nope not the solenoid.

Any ideas?

[081dbx64]

Ok..some more information. I checked the ohm reading between all three windings on the stator. .001 on all three. I also check the continuity to ground on the stator wires. All three have continuity.

I'm pretty positive this is not right. This was the one test I did not do. I did the voltage test and the ohm test. How is it my system charges correctly with this problem?

Any ideas...I don't want to order a new stator if that's not the problem. Any particular place to order one?

[posplayr]

If I disconnect the red wire from the R/R it goes away. If I leave it connected my battery drains over night every time. If I disconnect it it does not drain. Brand new R/R.

I also disconnected all the orange wires from the fuse box...still does not solve the problem. I disconnected the ignition switch in the headlight and it still does not go away.

What next?

if you are draining the battery over nite it is more than 0.01 amps (more like 1 amp) and it is not likely the NEW R/R.

Sound more like a short.

[tom203]

Ok..some more information. I checked the ohm reading between all three windings on the stator. .001 on all three. I also check the continuity to ground on the stator wires. All three have continuity.

I'm pretty positive this is not right. This was the one test I did not do. I did the voltage test and the ohm test. How is it my system charges correctly with this problem?

Any ideas...I don't want to order a new stator if that's not the problem. Any particular place to order one?

The resistance across any two stator wires ( disconnected from r/r ) will be about 1 ohm, not .001! I think you're having trouble with your meter readings.I rather doubt that there is any continuity between any stator lead and ground, cuz you wouldn't get 70 volt ac output during the test. and your charging would be poor.
Anyways, disconnecting the red wire from r/r stops current- just where are you disconnecting it?? It seems unlikely that two r/r's would do the same thing- i.e., allow reverse flow. So it must be somewhere in that red wire- doublecheck its insulation from your disconnection point.

[081dbx64]

I'm definitely getting connectivity between ground and the stator wires. I used a continuity tester and a ohm meter between the yellow wires and ground.

I don't understand why I'm getting good charging either. I'm leaning towards a new stator..the bike is 30 years old and the one there is the original. Don't know.

[tom203]

I'm definitely getting connectivity between ground and the stator wires. I used a continuity tester and a ohm meter between the yellow wires and ground.

I don't understand why I'm getting good charging either. I'm leaning towards a new stator..the bike is 30 years old and the one there is the original. Don't know.

Call me skepical, but with all stator wires disconnected from r/r, you have continuity between any/all stator wires and ground? Given a choice between pushing juice up thru r/r and battery, or shorting to ground, the stator would choose the easy path-to ground! When mine did this, I couldn't get 12 volts out of charging circuit ( but the stator did not look fried).

[081dbx64]

I don't know what to think....all I know is if i leave the yellow or red wire connected to the R/R my battery goes dead in a very short period of time.

[tom203]

I don't know what to think....all I know is if i leave the yellow or red wire connected to the R/R my battery goes dead in a very short period of time.

Well, I'm very stubborn, so what is this yellow wire and where does it connect (besides the r/r ) ? Does it connect to one stator output wire????
Not to worry, we'll beat this into solved status!

[081dbx64]

The yellow wire comes from the stator and hooks into the R/R.

[posplayr]

I'm definitely getting connectivity between ground and the stator wires. I used a continuity tester and a ohm meter between the yellow wires and ground.

I don't understand why I'm getting good charging either. I'm leaning towards a new stator..the bike is 30 years old and the one there is the original. Don't know.

just to be clear the stator tests are when the R/R is disconnected. When you use your ohm meter ,

Test to insure that you get zero ohms with the two leads connected to each other. Do not touch the metal parts of the leads.

What resistance do you get between yellow wires?

What resistance do you get between each yellow wire and engine block?

These tests should have nothing to do with your 0.01 amp leak.