Voltage Leak .01 amps

[posplayr]

as far as the current drain, you should be able to isolate where the current is flowing. 1st off in order to drain a 14 Ah battery overnight will require a current of close to 1 amp, unless your battery is dead.

Since you think the drain is because of the R/R, and when you disconnect the red wire the drain goes away, do the following test.

1.) put the amp meter between the battery (-) and the negative battery cable to confirm the direction and magnitude of the drain. Current should be flowing into the negative terminal and something like 1.0 amp. What ever it is this is the total drain.

2.) reconnect the battery and put the amp meter in series with the red wire going to the R/R. If that is the source of the drain you should measure the same current. Confirm the current is flowing into the red wire on the R/R. Basically this means the R/R is bad if you see any current flowing into the R/R. That is because the upper leg diodes should block any current.

look at the R/R schematic , if the diodes are in tact current can not flow into the R/R red wire.

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfacts.htm

Please report back after doing these couple of tests.

[081dbx64]

Ok..There are three wires coming out of my stator. Yellow - White/Blue - White/Green

My readings are as follows for OHMS set at 2k on my meter

White/Blue and White/Green = .001 OHMS
Yellow and White/Blue = .001 OHMS
Yellow and White/Green = .001

My readings to Ground

White/Green = 0 OHMS
White/Blue = .001 OHMS
Yellow = .001 OHMS

My Readings to Ground with Meter set to Contunity

White/Green = Audible BEEP
White/Blue = Audible BEEP
Yellow = Audible BEEP


It seems to me I should not get an audible beep between the white/Green and ground.

thanks everyone..not sure what to do yet.

[081dbx64]

Ok.

I disconnected the ground wire from the battery and hooked my amp meter between the ground strap and the battery. Reading is .004

I hooked the ground strap back to the battery.

I hooked up the R/R to the stator. Pulled the red wire and connected my amp meter between the red wire of the R/R and the wireing harness. Reading is .004

My amp meter was set to the 10A setting.

Thanks again.

[081dbx64]

Just to clarify

I put the red wire of the amp meter to ground and the black wire to the battery negative terminal.

If I put the red wire of the amp meter to the red wire on the R/R and the black wire of the amp meter to the red wire of the wiring harness I get a negative .04 current drain. If I switch the black and red wire of the amp meter I get a positive current drain.

I don't understand which way the current is flowing. I understand that current cannot flow into the R/R from the red wire? Right..don't know how to test for that.

[tom203]

Ok.

I disconnected the ground wire from the battery and hooked my amp meter between the ground strap and the battery. Reading is .004

Meter set to 2k is probably too high a range to measure 1 ohm- I just tried my meter on 200 range- gave me about 1 ohm across any two stator wires. But on 2k range, it said .000- but it was unstable. Your probes have to make real good contact to be accurate.
If that .004 refers to amp, that's really small- It would take days to drain a 14 ah battery. We have some kind of meter confusion here.

[081dbx64]

Ok...I just set it to 200K and get a reading of 0 between all three stator wires and between all three stator wires and ground.

[tom203]

Ok...I just set it to 200K and get a reading of 0 between all three stator wires and between all three stator wires and ground.

Wrong way! you need a meter that has a lower ohm range- most of new ones ( even cheapies) start at 200, then 2k, then 20k, then 200k. It's tough to measure 1 ohm with a range of 2k!

[081dbx64]

I think I may have gotten a bad R/R. I did the following.

With the R/R disconnected from bike.

Set my ohm meeter to 2K

Put the black wire of the Ohm meter on the Red wire from the R/R
I get these readings on each yellow wire from the R/R .747 - .759 - .739. It's my understanding that tests the three front diodes

Now I put the red wire of the OHM meter on the R/R Ground wire (black one). Now when I put the Red wire on each yellow wire from the R/R I get a reading of 1 or no change in the meter.

I'm thinking I have a combination of problems.

[posplayr]

I think I may have gotten a bad R/R. I did the following.

With the R/R disconnected from bike.

Set my ohm meeter to 2K

Put the black wire of the Ohm meter on the Red wire from the R/R
I get these readings on each yellow wire from the R/R .747 - .759 - .739. It's my understanding that tests the three front diodes

Now I put the red wire of the OHM meter on the R/R Ground wire (black one). Now when I put the Red wire on each yellow wire from the R/R I get a reading of 1 or no change in the meter.

I'm thinking I have a combination of problems.

measuring 0.5 ohm stator resistance on a 2K scale is meaningless, stop reporting those results. In fact your stator is probably fine as you meter is designed to measure the 70 V output you did measure and so the resistance "measurements" (I'll be gentle) do not contradict that because you could just as easily flipped a coin onto the floor and then covered your eyes and opened then each time you wanted a new measurement. (i.e. it a random and arbitrary result to use a 2K scale).

Also unless you really know what you are doing I would not use a 2K ohm scale as a diode tester. And don't use a continuity tester to measure sub ohm resistances.

Go spend $30 on an ohm meter or better yet $45 for an R/R from Duanage and sound like you problem might go away. I'm assuming something is draining your battery, and it goes away when you remove the red wire and by design current can not back flow into the R/R Red (+) wire.

just a clue, if you are measuring on a 2K ohms scale and lets say that it is a 3 1/2 digit meter. That means there are only 2002 ish unique display outputs starting at 0, 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0,.......... up to 2000.5

So 0.5 resolution with even worse accuracy is pretty crappy to be measureing 0.4-0.5 ohms

You should have something closer to a 200 ohm range where the same display would be

starting at 0.0, 0.05, 0.1, .15, .20,.......... up to 200.5 ohms Note this is just display resolution and not accuracy.

[081dbx64]

Well..now I really confused...I have what I believe to be a decent meter maybe I'm wrong. Velleman DVM850BL..

I have a brand new R/R installed. My current drain problem is still there.

[081dbx64]

Ok

Here goes again with my meter set to 200 OHMS on my stator tests

Between ground and the White/Green .6 OHMS
Between ground and the White/Blue 1 OHMS
Between ground and the Yellow 1 OHMS

Between White/Green and White/Blue .9 OHMS
Between White/Green and Yellow .9 OHMS
Between White/Blue and Yellow .9 Ohms

[081dbx64]

I'm beginning to think my new R/R is bad. My old R/R has a .01 current draw and the new one has a .004 current draw.

[posplayr]

Well..now I really confused...I have what I believe to be a decent meter maybe I'm wrong. Velleman DVM850BL..

I have a brand new R/R installed. My current drain problem is still there.

EDIT: statments below are true but on review of the data sheet there is nothing wrong with this meter (by design at least)

That is a great buy for $2, but that doesnt mean it will fullfill all of the requirements you will ever have. Buy a meter with a basic diode tester and something like a 200 ohm range. It might cost $30. Of course price is not an absolute indicator of accuracy. Check the data sheet to figure out what the minimum resolution is for ohms and see if it has a diode tester.

http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CC0Q8wIwAg#

[posplayr]

I found the data sheet and down loaded it. (pm me your e-mail if you need it)

On the top of page 6 it lists the resistance ranges. Why are you not putting it on the 200 ohm scale right a 6" O clock on the dial? That has a 0.1 ohm resolution.

On the bottom of page 5 it says the buzzer will beep for anything below 1.5K ohms. Not a good test when looking for 0.5 ohms


It also has a diode tester to measure the forward voltage drop. That is good. You should be able to confirm the forward drops of the R/R bridge rectifier (0.7V) as described in the stator pages.


Also on page 5 you will see that this meter will read all the way down to 200uA that is 200 1 millions of an amp full scale. You need to get off of the 10 amp scale and put it on the 200 m amp scale since you are measuring such a small current. You have to put the red lead into plug #7 (on the right) not the 10 amp plug on the left.

Turns out this is a pretty descent meter, we are just dealling with operator error.

[posplayr]

Ok

Here goes again with my meter set to 200 OHMS on my stator tests

Between ground and the White/Green .6 OHMS
Between ground and the White/Blue 1 OHMS
Between ground and the Yellow 1 OHMS

Between White/Green and White/Blue .9 OHMS
Between White/Green and Yellow .9 OHMS
Between White/Blue and Yellow .9 Ohms

are your leads plugged into 6 and 7 when you did the test? (see the manual)