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R/R Testing - Voltage through R/R

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    #31
    Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
    Are you sure about that? I thought that is where the regulator part of the R/R kicks in and shunts the electrons to ground.

    I don't belive it actually shorts to ground, more like shorts the phases across each other. The stator still produces power it just cycles around untill unshunted and connected back to the load.

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      #32
      Originally posted by raistian77 View Post
      I don't belive it actually shorts to ground, more like shorts the phases across each other. The stator still produces power it just cycles around untill unshunted and connected back to the load.
      yep.................

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        #33
        getting there lol. Explains burnt stators, resistance in the circut (corrosion loose connectors, etc) must make the stator act like it is under a load at all times even when shunted. If the resistance is bad enough the load could easily pass 15 amps and never trip a fuse do to the load being in a unfused section. Heck bad enough the stator could be under a 30 or 40 amp load and smoke itself trying to 'keep up'

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          #34
          Originally posted by raistian77 View Post
          getting there lol. Explains burnt stators, resistance in the circut (corrosion loose connectors, etc) must make the stator act like it is under a load at all times even when shunted. If the resistance is bad enough the load could easily pass 15 amps and never trip a fuse do to the load being in a unfused section. Heck bad enough the stator could be under a 30 or 40 amp load and smoke itself trying to 'keep up'
          I measured the stator currents for SHUNT and SERIES R/R's here. The summary charts are scaled to total current even though I measured stator leg current.

          SHUNT_vs_SERIES_RR_Compare_Tutorial

          The issue with resistance at the output of the R/R is that it causes the regulator to over control and shunt the stator more than it should. That is because if there is excessive resistance (e.g. 0.5 ohms) there will be a large voltage drop at the output of the R/R.

          For example If the R/R tries to push 10 amps and the 0.5 ohms is on the positive leg, then we are looking at a 5 volt drop. Since the battery is already at 12V+ then output of the R/R is at 17V + which will keep the R/R regulator circuit shunting causing the R/R and the stator to get hot.

          The battery is not charging, and there is barely enough current going to the GS, because the R/R is constantly shunting current in the stator.
          Last edited by posplayr; 10-29-2010, 11:07 AM.

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            #35
            Question

            I'm measuring the current drain on my battery in series between the positive battery terminal. My meter is set to 200m

            My reading is 10.2.. Is this .102 amps or .0102 amps?

            Any ideas

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              #36
              Originally posted by 081dbx64 View Post
              Question

              I'm measuring the current drain on my battery in series between the positive battery terminal. My meter is set to 200m

              My reading is 10.2.. Is this .102 amps or .0102 amps?

              Any ideas
              Probably 10 mA but what meter is it?

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                #37
                Originally posted by 081dbx64 View Post
                Question

                I'm measuring the current drain on my battery in series between the positive battery terminal. My meter is set to 200m

                My reading is 10.2.. Is this .102 amps or .0102 amps?

                Any ideas
                In the 200m scale, your limit is 200 miliamps.

                Your display shows 10.2, so that is 10.2 miliamps, or 0.0102 amps.

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                  #38
                  Ok...so divide by 1000...got it.

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