I Need help from someone with an 83+ GS450

[djg42]

I have a 1980 gs450 , there are bolt onrear sets for the 83+ GS450's, if someone could mesaure the distance between the driver and passenger foot pegs on there 83+ GS450 i would really appreciate it!!

[tom203]

I have a 1980 gs450 , there are bolt onrear sets for the 83+ GS450's, if someone could mesaure the distance between the driver and passenger foot pegs on there 83+ GS450 i would really appreciate it!!

I'll revive this; on my gs650, it's 12 inches!

[BUZ]

HELPPPPP

I have a 1982 GS450GA suzuki Matic

I got this bike in working condition , I restored it and put it back together but ijust cant get it to spark
checked all wiring , put a new plugs, plug wires, coils, stator /generator , Battery , and still not sparking I dropped the CDI while i was restoring it so Im wondering if i damaged it or not !!

The CDI for this Bike Reads 32900-44510 BB 1207 , I bought a CDI 81-83 but it reads 32900-44420 BB 1214 , installed it and still no spark , something unique is when i press the start button i see no spark but when i release the start button i see two sparks and that's it .

My question to you is do you think the CDI that i bought would work with my Bike even if it has different numbers? I don't understand why ONLY 1982 GS450GA has its own specific CDI

the only thing left to change is the rectifier my question is would the bike not spark if the rectifier is bad ?

I really need your help , the bike is been sitting for sometime and i want to get it to run

Thanks in advanc

[John Park]

This should really be in either the Electrical section or the Twins Forum. The ignition advance curve is built into the Ignitor which is what it's called rather than the CDI, which it isn't one of. I suspect the only difference is in the settings for spark advance to accommodate the auto trans.

Your original ignitor may still work. The presumably used one you bought seems to have life, given the sparks. However, the condition you describe is familiar and happens when the starter operation drops the voltage below a certain threshold, maybe about 8 volts, that it requires to operate. If your battery isn't up to snuff or is a new one that wasn't fully charged after being filled or has sat around for a while the sparks will only happen after you've released the starter button. I've managed to get my bike to start on the remaining two remaining revolutions but it's hit and mostly miss, and a new battery fixed it.

I'd try charging the battery fully and then spinning the engine with the plugs out but resting on the motor. With no compression, the voltage drop should be minimal and if you get constant sparks you just have a battery problem.

You can try bump starting the bike with with a friend or two pushing it, in second gear. Or you can do the time honoured run along beside and jump aboard and drop the clutch if you're athletic and up for it.

Rectifier or not, it should start and run on the battery. You could also connect a car battery to it, Not connected to the car, but I'd disconnect it soon after it runs. A volt ohm meter is pretty cheap these days and a must if you want to avoid flying blind on the electrical system on these bikes.

Converting it from the stock rectifier to a Shindengen SH775 series type is definitely worth it in the long run. There are lots of threads here about making the swap, including one of mine about dong it on a 450.

[John Park]

OOPS! just realized that it's an Automatic. Probably won't bump start; dunno, never dealt with one.