1980 GS450E wont start

[cowboyup3371]

R/R = Regulator/Rectifier; it's the grey box with fins in the middle of your picture above.

[Steve]

Here is a video of it on its 2nd start a few weeks ago (if this works):
http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/v...6903912&type=1

The link probably works, but it's asking me to sign up on FaceBook to view it.

THAT just ain't gonna happen.

If you want it to be seen by more than the few people on FaceBook, use a public site like PhotoBucket or Image Shack.

.

[Buster-boy]

There is a paste called "Blue Job" that removes blue from chrome pipes. Get to it now (or as soon as you can) before it gets any worse.

http://www.blue-job.com/

[CycloneGS]

Still no spark.

So I cleaned all the grounds up very well and checked all wiring. Granted some patchwork has previously been done, it still looks good to me.

New problem: When I put the key in and turn on, I get no lights in the cluster. Turn signal lights on cluster work but oil light does not come on nor does the gear idicator. Still turns over but no spark visible at the plugs.

This seems related.

I have a multimeter now, I think im gonna figure out how to use it this weekend and test my coil packs.

[Flaming Chainsaws]

Still no spark.

So I cleaned all the grounds up very well and checked all wiring. Granted some patchwork has previously been done, it still looks good to me.

New problem: When I put the key in and turn on, I get no lights in the cluster. Turn signal lights on cluster work but oil light does not come on nor does the gear idicator. Still turns over but no spark visible at the plugs.

This seems related.

I have a multimeter now, I think im gonna figure out how to use it this weekend and test my coil packs.

The gear indicator lights are controlled by this little pod under the sprocket cover. You might want to follow those wires. I would say a wire got loose or the bulbs blew.

Did you get a multimeter? We can't really do much without it.

EDIT: You did get a multimeter. Let's start testing your parts! You downloaded the manual, right?

[CycloneGS]

Yeah I have both manuals and a multimeter. I dont know how to use the multimeter and I havent had time to read up on it yet. any tips?

I can pull off the cover and check in there too.

Its tough to get going when I only have 30 minutes here and there.

[Flaming Chainsaws]

Yeah I have both manuals and a multimeter. I dont know how to use the multimeter and I havent had time to read up on it yet. any tips?

I can pull off the cover and check in there too.

Its tough to get going when I only have 30 minutes here and there.

OK. Do these tests. These came out of the Haynes manual, page 117-124. Refer to that if needed.

Testing the signal generator is easy. Test the component side.

1. Disconnect the signal generator.
2. Set the multimeter to resistance (ohms). Looks like a horseshoe.
3. Place one probe on the brown wire (doesn't matter which probe).
4. Place the other probe on the green/white wire.
5. If it measures between 60-80 ohms, it is still good. If not, it is faulty.

Testing the ignition coils.

1. Remove the gas tank so that you can get to the coils.
2. Unplug all connections from the coils. That includes the sparkplug wire and wiring harness wires.
3. Set the multimeter to resistance (ohms).
4. Start with the left coil. We will measure the primary resistance first.
5. Place one probe on the white wire. It does not matter which probe you use.
6. Place the other probe on the orange/white wire.
7. You should get a reading of 3.5-4.5 ohms.
8. Now let's check the secondary winding resistance. Set the multimeter to k ohms.
9. Place one probe on white wire.
10. Place the other probe in the sparkplug cap.
11. You should get a reading between 23-25k ohms. If it's low by a few thousands, try buying new NGK sparkplug caps then redo the test. Despite the manual, the coils are still good if the secondary winding resistance measures at least over 16k ohms.
12. Then it's the same process with the right coil except the right coil will have a black/yellow wire instead of a white wire.

Testing the igniter.

1. Unscrew both sparkplugs.
2. Put sparkplugs back into the spark plug cap.
3. Ground the sparkplugs to the engine. Like this.
4. Set the multimeter to resistance (ohms).
5. Disconnect the igniter.
6. Turn ignition to ON.
7. Connect the negative probe to black/white wire.
8. Connect the positive probe to the brown wire.
9. Check to see if a spark appears on the right sparkplug.
10. Connect the negative probe to the black/white wire.
11. Connect the positive probe to the green/white wire.
12. Check to see if a spark appears on the left sparkplug.
13. Did you see any spark? If not, the igniter is faulty.

Hope this helps you out!

[CycloneGS]

signal generator: 113 ohms This means I have to replace this component, right?

Right coil: primary 4.1, secondary 12.29

Left coil: primary 4.0, secondary 12.6

[pete]

signal generator: 113 ohms This means I have to replace this component, right?

Right coil: primary 4.1, secondary 12.29

Left coil: primary 4.0, secondary 12.6

Nope, your signal generator is probably good. There's a typo up above FC, should be brown to black/white, then green/white to black/white to check both individually. Both of these should give you 60 - 80 ohms each.

Also, I'd be measuring these at the solder joints on the back of each pickup coil under the ignition cover unless you know the connectors are 100% clean.

Brown to green/white is including both coils in the measurement in series, so 113 ohms is a bit low but probably good. It's not a reliable measurement though.

From memory your coils look good.

[pete]

Actually, re-reading FC's post above, his ignitor steps are slightly inaccurate, but close.

Don't disconnect the ignitor, instead disconnect the signal generator.

You can then connect the mulitmeter leads as described to the connector going to the ignitor (if that makes sense).

But BE CAREFUL!!!! Make sure the negative lead of the multimeter only ever goes to the black/white wire, never to the brown or green/white wires as this could kill your ignitor.

Alternatively, you can use a 1.5v battery to do this same test, once again ensuring negative only ever goes to the black/white wire.

There is also another very quick and dirty test for your coils/spark plugs/plug caps.

- Disconnect the ignitor and signal generator
- Turn ignition and kill switch on etc.
- For the left plug, locate the white wire on the wiring harness side of the ignitor connector.
- Use a piece of wire or similar to flick this to ground which should cause a spark to fire.
- Repeat for the black/yellow wire for the right plug.

A couple of other basic tests:

- Ensure you have 12v coming out of the ignition switch and kill switch.
- Ensure you have 12v on the orange/white wires at both coils.

Don't forget also that if any of these tests fails, it doesn't prove the particular component is faulty, it just means that that component, and anything else it relies on is not working correctly, so you may need to do further tests.

For example, if your ignitor ground or 12v lead is not connected correctly, it won't spark and therefore the ignitor test will fail even though it's not necessarily a faulty ignitor.

Hope that helps some...

[Flaming Chainsaws]

Nope, your signal generator is probably good. There's a typo up above FC, should be brown to black/white, then green/white to black/white to check both individually. Both of these should give you 60 - 80 ohms each.

Also, I'd be measuring these at the solder joints on the back of each pickup coil under the ignition cover unless you know the connectors are 100% clean.

Brown to green/white is including both coils in the measurement in series, so 113 ohms is a bit low but probably good. It's not a reliable measurement though.

From memory your coils look good.

Oops! Well, I pulled these tests straight out of the Haynes...

[CycloneGS]

I got spark!

I started some of the tests but ended up just tracing my power from the batter out through the wiring. I found a problem in the yellow/green starter wire from the solenoid to the clutch handle, so I reconnected the wiring correctly (previous owner had run their own wire from the solenoid to the green starter plug skipping the wiring harness). I pulled the clutch lever, cranked it and I got spark at the plugs!

I reconnected everything and installed the gas tank to see if she would start but I ran out of battery before I had fuel to the carbs.

Battery is on the charger!

[CycloneGS]

ok. now its acting funny.

I was able to get it started but only one time.

The neutral light illuminated for the first time in a week. but now it will not come on and it wont start. Of course im in neutral and I pulled the clutch too. I think maybe my ignition switch is f-ed up.

[pete]

Oops! Well, I pulled these tests straight out of the Haynes...

All good FC, just didn't want him to blow his ignitor

Also, that's why I don't trust the Haynes and always use the Clymer now...

ok. now its acting funny.

I was able to get it started but only one time.

The neutral light illuminated for the first time in a week. but now it will not come on and it wont start. Of course im in neutral and I pulled the clutch too. I think maybe my ignition switch is f-ed up.

Mate you got a dodgy connection somewhere! Good to hear you have spark though

Definitely go through all your grounds, and use that multimeter to check for voltage at every connection from your battery to fuse to ignition and so on.

Also, if you have a glass fuse, replace it in case it is intermittent. I replaced mine recently and even though it worked, when I pulled it out it fell apart in my hands.

[CycloneGS]

I cleaned up all the connections and performed the tests for the ignition in the manual.

Signal generator is good.

Coils tested fine.

Ignition is not good. I can't get a spark at the plugs, consistently. After I had a spark at the plugs I fumbled with the starter solenoid connections and it went away. So I cleaned up those connections and still I did not get a spark.

If my igniter was going out would it sometime give a spark and sometimes not?

Can I pull out the igniter and test it?

Im about to buy a new igniter and starter relay and see what happens.

Oh yeah, I have 12v power everywhere.