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    #16
    well, im looking through that online service manual and i cant find any chain specs. its driving me up the wall. i found a oem sproket for an excess of 70 bucks.

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      #17
      Please see my post above. You have a perfect opportunity to escape the 630 curse.

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        #18
        The chain is listed on page 2 of General information, under Transmission,
        there's a listing for drive chain, which states,
        TAKASAGO #630SO, 96 links.

        But everyone seems to be going to the 530 chain, it's lighter and smoother I've been told, and if your going to replace it all, nows the time as 630 chains are going the way of the dinosaur.

        If you want to find 530 conversion chains, check E-bay, there's a few on there. Just be careful, know what you need and what you're getting!

        eBay Motors makes it easy to find parts for cars, trucks, SUVs, motorcycles & more. We even offer a massive selection of new & pre-owned classics, hot rods, exotics, vans, ATVs, RVs, boats and more at eBay Motors. Shop for your next vehicle, or start selling in a marketplace with 171 million buyers.



        or, just querry E-bay Motors for chains in general, just type GS750 Chains
        sigpic
        Steve
        "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page."
        _________________
        '79 GS1000EN
        '82 GS1100EZ

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          #19
          im just going to cal z1 tomorrow when they open and see the most economical solution. whether that be converting or sticking to original. you guys have been a big help. ill post what i find out tomorrow

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            #20
            Conclusion!!!

            OK! so i called z1 and bikebandit both. Z1 had my chain and sprockets in stock, bikebandit had it on back-order so i went with Z1. The chain is a 630 96 link O ring style. 14 teeth front sprocket and a 41 tooth rear (i think, ill recheck and post if this is different) Tottal cost of $175.ish bucks. The cost difference in getting it converted was within 10 bucks.


            The biggest problem im going to have is getting the old chain off, a chain breaker for a 630 is upward around $80-90, so im going to grind it off and hammer in the rivets i suppose.

            you guys rock, i know im not the most mechanically savvy person in the world and yall helped out enormously. much <3!

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              #21
              Good job on getting a new chain and sprockets. One thing to keep in mind about the conversion is the availability to get a new chain when needed if stuck on the side of the road. The 530s are more available than the 630.

              Can't wait to see new pictures.
              Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

              1981 GS550T - My First
              1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
              2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

              Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
              Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
              and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

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                #22
                Agree with CowboyUp about the conversion; also, is your new 630 chain a rivet type? The 530 riveters are common, the 630s are not. Well, what's done is done and you'll get a chance in some years to revisit if you care to.

                Grind rivets or just saw through the old chain. You won't be needing it any more. You could also take the opportunity to loosen up the swing arm (no need to break the chain then) and inspect and grease up the needle bearings.

                Originally posted by kb_air View Post
                OK! so i called z1 and bikebandit both. Z1 had my chain and sprockets in stock, bikebandit had it on back-order so i went with Z1. The chain is a 630 96 link O ring style. 14 teeth front sprocket and a 41 tooth rear (i think, ill recheck and post if this is different) Tottal cost of $175.ish bucks. The cost difference in getting it converted was within 10 bucks.


                The biggest problem im going to have is getting the old chain off, a chain breaker for a 630 is upward around $80-90, so im going to grind it off and hammer in the rivets i suppose.

                you guys rock, i know im not the most mechanically savvy person in the world and yall helped out enormously. much <3!

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                  #23
                  Don't forget to pull the front sprocket before cutting the old chain off.

                  I used a 4.5" grinder, went through the side plates no problem

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Souske View Post
                    Don't forget to pull the front sprocket before cutting the old chain off.

                    Don't forget to pull the front sprocket before cutting the old chain off. (though I'd say it again)

                    If you remove the chain first you could have a bit of bother getting the front sprocket off!
                    79 GS1000S
                    79 GS1000S (another one)
                    80 GSX750
                    80 GS550
                    80 CB650 cafe racer
                    75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
                    75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by hampshirehog View Post
                      Don't forget to pull the front sprocket before cutting the old chain off. (though I'd say it again)

                      If you remove the chain first you could have a bit of bother getting the front sprocket off!
                      Then again, being a GS, it will probably be loose anyway....
                      Kevin
                      E-Bay: gsmcyclenut
                      "Communism doesn't work because people like to own stuff." Frank Zappa

                      1978 GS750(x2 "projects"), 1983 GS1100ED (slowly becoming a parts bike), 1982 GS1100EZ,
                      Now joined the 21st century, 2013 Yamaha XTZ1200 Super Tenere.

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                        #26
                        well my chain is due in today so i took the liberty of looking in my clymer as to the process of replacing my chain. it has no dedicated section to removal and replacement of chain/sprockets. the best i could find was a quote that said "in order to remove chain you need to remove the swing arm, instructions in the chapter"
                        so i looked at the swing arm, and yea it has instruction on removal of the swing arm. nothing about sprockets, nothing about the chain specifically. will i know whats going on when i tear into the thing? is the sprocket removal a pretty self explanatory thing or will i be up the proverbial creek.

                        i have a hanes in rout and MIGHT be in today, who knows. its USPS so it could make it in a week from now, and i really need this bike up and running by Thursday. i dont know if this manual will have a dedicated section in it or not. it seems like my clymer just assumes i know what im doing.. and i obviously dont .

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                          #27
                          Please slow down a bit and read what the others have posted.

                          You will only need to remove the swingarm if your new chain is an endless chain. (That is what was stock, so that's what's in the manual.)
                          If your new chain has a master link or a riveted link, you can grind your old chain to remove it.

                          If you don't loosen the front sprocket nut before removing the chain, please don't come back and complain,
                          it was mentioned just a couple of posts back (posts 23 & 24), by Souske and Hampshirehog.

                          .
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                            #28
                            Originally posted by Steve View Post
                            Please slow down a bit and read what the others have posted.

                            You will only need to remove the swingarm if your new chain is an endless chain. (That is what was stock, so that's what's in the manual.)
                            If your new chain has a master link or a riveted link, you can grind your old chain to remove it.

                            If you don't loosen the front sprocket nut before removing the chain, please don't come back and complain,
                            it was mentioned just a couple of posts back (posts 23 & 24), by Souske and Hampshirehog.

                            .
                            yes i saw that. i was just saying my manual doesn't have a section on doing this and said i needed to remove my swing arm. i didn't say that was what i was going to do. i was merely saying i needed instructions on removing the sprocket. i was told to leave the chain on before i did that but up until this post there was little detailed instruction on HOW to remove it with the chain on. all i was asking is, is it pretty self explanatory when i get into it, or will i need to wait for my other manual before i tear into it and get in over my head.

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                              #29
                              Its fairly logical, pull the sprocket cover off, mash down the tabs on sporcket nut, hold rear brake, and remove sprocket nut.

                              Then cut te old chain off, pull the rear wheel, replace sprocket on wheel (again with the mashed tabs)

                              Replace front sprocket, fish chain back through, install rear wheel, attach chain, tighten chain, lube chain.

                              Profit!

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                                #30
                                Originally posted by Souske View Post
                                Its fairly logical, pull the sprocket cover off, mash down the tabs on sporcket nut, hold rear brake, and remove sprocket nut.

                                Then cut te old chain off, pull the rear wheel, replace sprocket on wheel (again with the mashed tabs)

                                Replace front sprocket, fish chain back through, install rear wheel, attach chain, tighten chain, lube chain.

                                Profit!
                                cool, thanks much! is 10-40 oil thick enough to lube an o-ring chain? or should i go buy thicker.

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