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    #31
    Anytime I've ever taken a set of carbs apart I purposely leave the pins out from fully seated a tiny bit so you can get a small screwdriver under them in the future.

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      #32
      Once they are out, I chuck the pins in the drill, use it as a lathe and turn the shoulder down so it's not a press fit anymore. Then you can just push the pins out with a finger next time. There is no reason for the press fit.


      Life is too short to ride an L.

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        #33
        Originally posted by Steve View Post
        I like the idea of a spring-loaded punch for the pin removal.

        I will have to try to remember to get on next time I am at Harbor Freight.

        What I usually use is my 6" Channel-Loc pliers. Opened fully, they are just wide enough to straddle both legs. The jaws will be offset slightly, put the lower jaw over the end of the pin and squeeze gently. It will pop the pin out a couple of millimeters, just enough to get under the head with the wire cutters and pull the pin out.

        .
        I've been using the automatic center punch for a while now. It does leave a mark in the end of the pin, so I've been thinking about blunting the point to stop that. If you're not careful with a sharp one, you can make a burr on the end of the pin that will interfere with removal and installation. Nothing you can't just file off, though.
        Dogma
        --
        O LORD, be gracious to me; heal me, for I have sinned against you! - David

        Skeptical scrutiny is the means, in both science and religion, by which deep insights can be winnowed from deep nonsense. - Carl Sagan

        --
        '80 GS850 GLT
        '80 GS1000 GT
        '01 ZRX1200R

        How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex

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          #34
          Both Mikuni and Kehin pulled their heads out of somewhere with the later model carbs and the float pins are no longer press fit. They have a hold down screw and it's nice not to stress out over breaking a post.
          The spring loaded punch is nice.

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            #35
            I'm going to get one
            I use a PJ1, a screw and a socket
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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              #36
              When I got my 1100gL, it had pods but the PO gave me the original airbox just in case I could somehow salvage part of it. It looked just like your airbox. Maybe this condition runs in 1100's.
              1983 GS 1100 Guided Laser
              1983 GS 1100 G
              2000 Suzuki Intruder 1500, "Piggy Sue"
              2000 GSF 1200 Bandit (totaled in deer strike)
              1986 Suzuki Cavalcade GV 1400 LX (SOLD)

              I find working on my motorcycle mildly therapeutic when I'm not cursing.

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                #37
                That amount of damage looks like more than just fumes....

                What about this?: Just prior to the fatal ride, the petcock hung up a bit and dumped some raw gas that ended up pooling in the airbox?

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