Alternator Rotor Chip

[mike_of_bbg]

This was also true for my 550L (the swing arm bolt is the right size/pitch), but the threads are not deep enough to reach the end of the crank. None of the hardware stores near me carried bolts that large (M16 I think).

I saw suggestions to use nuts or a large ball bearing atop the crank threads, but the nut I tried to use got stuck instead Fortunately I was replacing the crank, not the rotor. One suggestion I saw later but did not try was to pack the void in grease, then use the swing arm bolt to pressurize and pop it out. If that doesn't work I'd suggest using a threaded rod or allen bolt of the appropriate size against the bottom of the inner crank threads, and wrap it in tape so it stays centered and does not damage the threads. IIRC it took a lot of torque and maybe a few hammer smacks to get it off.

BTW, to remove the rotor you need a long bolt. The swingarm pivot bolt thread size is the proper size for the larger GS bikes but I'm not sure about a 550.

[cowboyup3371]

Thanks guys. From what I can tell, the stator looks okay so far; or at least no obvious damage but I'll look some more.

I'll probably try to find the correct tool to use as I have a nasty habit of screwing things up when I don't.

I also wanted to add that Gmansyz was very helpful in offering up his rotor but I decided to get one from Ebay for $25 and free shipping. I appreciate his willingness to step up and I hope someone else will find use for it.

I also have a line on a tool for a 1000 that I'll see if it works for my 550. If not, I'll start looking for one as I'd rather not kill the bike in the process of changing it.

[mike_of_bbg]

Well, the "proper" (non-Suzuki) tool is only $9:

http://www.z1enterprises.com/Flywheel-Puller-16mm-x-15mm-RH-Internal-Honda-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Yamaha-2176.aspx

But any M16x1.5 bolt with enough thread should do the job, if you can find one.

[cowboyup3371]

Thanks Mike. I'll give that a shot

[cowboyup3371]

After installing my chain today, I asked Helena back outside to help hold the rear wheel while I took off the bolt from the alternator rotor. I figured out too late that I needed to hold the right side of the crankshaft while I unscrewed the bolt on the left (Thanks for the advice Tkent02). However, when I went to try using the flywheel removal tool that SRSupertrapp lent me (and another I bought from the local shop) I realized they were way too big.

So, I went searching this evening on the part number and found the 16mm MotionPro and Bikemaster advertise for the 550 isn't right, I need a 14mm tool. Alpha Sports has one for $23. I'd like to try using the swingarm idea first (I really don't want to tear it apart again though), but I don't understand what people mean by sticking a bearing into that hole. Does anyone have pictures of something they use?

Also, does anyone have a 14mm removal tool I could borrow?

[tom203]

I have not done this (pull rotor) , but sounds similar to other machinery. Can you find deep drive socket (or pipe nipple) that will fit thru rotor and bear against crank end? this would act as extension to the bolt you need to use. Put a little torque on bolt, tap rotor LIGHTY with mallet, put a little more torque, etc.

[cowboyup3371]

Bump. I'm surprised that with all the experience rebuilding engines that no one has any pictures or tools that would fit for this.

That or I'm on permanent ignore

[TheCafeKid]

Go to the store and buy a bolt with the same thread and pitch as a swinger pivot bolt (I wanna say its 19mm but I cannot remember for sure. Maybe someone does) use a sacrificial socket or something to slip into the bolt hole on the end of the rotor (you need to take that bolt out first obviously) thread the new longer bolt in, it will press on the socket, which will push on the crank and lever the rotor off. Cinch. But it may require a leverage bar (long ratchet handle or breaker bar) and sometimes some heat.

[cowboyup3371]

That's the part I'm having an issue understanding Josh and Tom. Does that socket need to be the same diameter as the outer hole (14mm) or a tad less (13mm)? How deep am I talking about needing since I don't have any deep wells to use?

[TheCafeKid]

That's the part I'm having an issue understanding Josh and Tom. Does that socket need to be the same diameter as the outer hole (14mm) or a tad less (13mm)? How deep am I talking about needing since I don't have any deep wells to use?

You don't. The socket is just a tool to use to put pressure on the end of the crank. That way you're not pressing the bolt you're using as a lever into the crank and risk munging up the crank snout or threads etc. The socket needs to be small enough to fit down into the hole that you pull the crank end bolt from. Understand?

[cowboyup3371]

Not fully but I'll drop you a line later to talk more about it. From what I'm seeing on the replacement rotor, there's very little room in there unless the bolt holding everything in place that I already removed screws directly into the crank and not the rotor?

Thanks

[mike_of_bbg]

The socket would need to be as wide as possible to fit inside the outer threads, but not damage the inner ones on the crank (it should push against the flat end of the crank, not the threads). It needs to be short enough that you can at least get 3-4 threads of bolt in the outer threads before you need to apply force.

If you can find a bolt with threads long enough, you won't need the socket or any other aid for pushing. The swing arm bolt is the right size and thread pitch but doesn't have enough thread to reach the end of the crank. Hence the need for a socket or some other aid to get the pressure you need.

Look at the tool I posted the link to. It's basically just a long bolt sized 16mm x 1.5mm pitch. My local hardware store (real one, not Lowes/THD) didn't carry anything metric past 14mm...

[cowboyup3371]

I'll check again then Mike. The 16mm is too big (won't fit in outer hole) and the 14mm I found at the bike shop while returning the 16mm is the wrong pitch. I'll see what I can do about it tomorrow or Sat.

Thanks.

[TheCafeKid]

The socket would need to be as wide as possible to fit inside the outer threads, but not damage the inner ones on the crank (it should push against the flat end of the crank, not the threads). It needs to be short enough that you can at least get 3-4 threads of bolt in the outer threads before you need to apply force.

If you can find a bolt with threads long enough, you won't need the socket or any other aid for pushing. The swing arm bolt is the right size and thread pitch but doesn't have enough thread to reach the end of the crank. Hence the need for a socket or some other aid to get the pressure you need.

Look at the tool I posted the link to. It's basically just a long bolt sized 16mm x 1.5mm pitch. My local hardware store (real one, not Lowes/THD) didn't carry anything metric past 14mm...

Thanks Mike. Definitely a whole
Lotta more clearer than I was explaining it.

Basically scott, the socket is just used as a drift more or less, because of you use the swingarm pivot bolt as your puller the threads on it aren't long enough to do the job. But if you can find a 14X1.5 bolt with lots of thread you won't need the socket. You could even try to find some all thread rod and then just put two jam nuts on the end you'll crank on and that will work as well. And like I said you'll want some leverage. I used a 2' breaker bar and it worked well. But no matter what don't hit it with anything. Of course you're not worried about the rotor so much since you're replacing it, but you don't want to cause any accidental damage to the crank snout.

[mike_of_bbg]

Perhaps a picture (OK, drawing) is worth 1,000 words? Please don't make fun of me, I'm an engineer, not an artist

Should have thought of a socket when I was doing that! Screwed up the crank the first time - but then that's what I was replacing. If you use a Craftsman socket just take it back to Sears and tell them you failed to get full satisfaction.