carb rebuild problems

[kennethleemiller]

Daniel,

I live in an outer lying suburb of Houston.. Actually about an hour out of the city, but I work in Houston during the week..

Ken

[tom203]

With choke applied, starting up and racing to 4k is normal (till you feather the choke). What happens if you leave the choke partially activated- does it still die after a minute? Normal for mine is to drive off with 1/4 choke and lose all choke in 2 minutes.

[kennethleemiller]

With choke applied, starting up and racing to 4k is normal (till you feather the choke). What happens if you leave the choke partially activated- does it still die after a minute? Normal for mine is to drive off with 1/4 choke and lose all choke in 2 minutes.

I didn't try feathering the choke until the second try, which, by then it was too late... I probably could have kept it going by feathering the throttle, but I wanted to see how long it would stay alive with assistance from me.. I'll try starting it today with half choke, or perhaps full choke and and then half after it starts up..

[tom203]

I didn't try feathering the choke until the second try, which, by then it was too late... I probably could have kept it going by feathering the throttle,.....

The "choke" system neither wants nor needs ANY throttle input-try just feathering the choke to see if you can keep it at a fast (but unstable ) idle .

[kennethleemiller]

try just feathering the choke to see if you can keep it at a fast (but unstable ) idle .

Noted.. will do..

[kennethleemiller]

Stayed at the girlfriend's place last night, didn't get to work on the bike..

But in the meantime I'd like to toss around a few ideas I have, and get some input, food-for-thought, whatever..

The new stator should be in today, I'll install that this afternoon... HOPEFULLY that will be the end of my charging system problems.. I absolutely HATE HATE HATE troubleshooting electrical problem on vehicles..

At some point, probably sooner rather than later, it's going to need a valve job, and I was just wondering if anyone knows where to get replacement springs, guides, seals, etc.. Does Suzuki still provide internals for these?? I'm hoping the valves themselves are still reusable, which brings around another question: if I want to clean the valves and reuse them can I soak them Barrymans overnight? Do the valves have some kind of sealant or coating that's going to dissolve in the dip, rendering them useless? Is there a good way of checking seat angles and wear? The bike has 26,xxx mi. on it, is there anything I should be looking for as far as wear, etc??

I'm considering, while the head is off and disassembled, having it milled, and possibly ported (probably not ported).. But I'm also considering having the outer surfaces black anodized.. Does anyone know anything about anodizing?? Is it possible to only anodize certain surfaces, retaining the internal and mounting surface's integrity?? And while I'm on the subject, I actually want to anodize the cylinder jugs and engine casings too... (I've got this vision of a black engine with polished outer covers)..

The top cover on my engine is the 16 bolt, aka leaky cover, and there's evidence (quite unattractive evidence, I might add) of someone at some point trying to remedy the leakiness from the outside.. Is there a good way for me to make a positive seal from the inside??

Is there anything I should know about cams, timing chain, chain tensioner, etc.?? And while I'm thinking of the tensioner- It appears that I need to remove the starter cover plate, in order to route the stator cables up to the r/r, however one of the cover plate screws is directly underneath the chain tension adjustment.. If I need to remove the tensioner to get to the screw Is there a gasket there that I need to replace? And will removing the tensioner mess up the timing when I go to reinstall it? Will the chain come off the teeth on the crank shaft when I remove the tension??

Just some things I've been thinking about, if anyone has ideas, personal experiences, criticism, whatever.. This is the perfect time to tell I'm completely off my rocker.. I'm just looking for any kind of input..

Thanks,

Ken

[tom203]

You need to take a deep breath and RELAX! It's a project that requires you to just keep plugging at it- it will reward you later.
You can remove that screw(starter cover) under camchain tensioner with mini vicegrips- I did. Make sure you spend the time scraping old stator cover gasket off- but don't gouge metal !- or you'll have leaks. I know you got a new gasket,right? and screws? You might want to use a dab of glue(on cover) to hold gasket in place while you insert screws. Before tigntening, make sure you check that gasket hasn't shifted.
Valve job??? don't bother yet, I'd get it running. Fact that your cam cover gasket is leaking is sorta a good sign-maybe PO actually checked valve clearances and just used a non OEM gasket - check yourself and get new gasket.. I got the 16 bolt cover and mine doesn't leak.
New stator? what about R/R???? beware the stock one and most of the replacements.

Added info.... Try just loosening that rear starter moter cover screw(don't remove it) and see if you can get enough play to get wires thru. It's a PITA to get it started if you remove it

[kennethleemiller]

gasket and screws: got a new gasket for sure, didn't get screws...

stator, r/r: the stator had previously been replaced (all three wires same color), and when I bought it the PO said that he had recently replaced the r/r... I'm guessing the stator was replaced a long time ago, possibly before he got the bike.. and at some point it quit charging so he replaced the r/r himself in hopes that it was not stator.. at any rate it didn't fix the problem.. and it may need more repair even after I put in the new stator, but since I have a new one anyway, I might as well replace it.. I did notice when I got the bike that the grounding jumper on the r/r was attached to that bolt with the rubber insert, and that bolt was hardly threaded at that.. so I ran the jumper to the negative battery terminal in hopes that would be the fix.. I was wrong, the problem remains..

Thanks for the advice on the starter motor screw.. AND the cover gasket..

[thewiz]

Ken, PM me. I am in Baytown and could come up one day and take a look. Not an expert like a lot of these folks, but have some experience with carbs and troubleshooting.

[mrbill5491]

Think I would stay with the stock air box and just run a K&N filter in it. You get a lot of rain in your area and pods as far as I know don't handle water to well lol.

[kennethleemiller]

avoid the one on lower right , cuz it's too small.

That may be just what my problem is... The r/r on the bike currently is the same size as that one on the right.. I'll look into getting the right size, then...

Also, about avoiding the H/L switch loop, I've read that here before, but I don't know what the purpose in doing that is.. I had always thought that that loop was fed by combination of the battery, r/r, and stator so that the light wouldn't dim and brighten as the revs go up and down?? Don't chide me for that, I realize this is just a blind theory of mine..

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Your bike has low miles. I would suggest first performing a valve adjustment rather than a "valve job". You'll find the procedure on my website. You'll also find guides for stator replacement, r/r replacement, and lots of other goodies.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[tom203]

" I realize this is just a blind theory of mine.. "

Visit Basscliff's to dispel blind theories! Anyway,you must test to determine which parts might be bad- unless you feel lucky. I got two 650 part lots that contained those mini R/R's, so they must have been popular as replacements. The Shindengen units are very durable , all over ebay for cheap money- I use a 30 year old unit off a cx-500 honda. But checking and securing connections is a must for happy motoring.

[kennethleemiller]

Think I may have made a breakthrough this evening.. Tried with the tank on and everything hooked up as normal.. Had pretty much the same results.. So I decided to rig up the ingenious contraption pictured below out of parts from my son's dirt bike, haha.. The whole idea was to get as free of a flow of fuel possible, and.. it worked!! Fired right up with the choke, and with some feathering I got a nice stable idle, albeit high, at around 2k, but still, a much better response than with the tank on... SO I think I need a new petcock.. I've also cracked into the stator housing, and while I was down there I went ahead and pulled off the rear engine cover, and good Lord was it nasty under there... a couple of questions attached ahead of the two photos following my gas tank set up..



This is what I found when I removed the stator housing.. The stator isn't actually supposed to be encased in oil is it?? Seems like that would detrimentally effect the electromagnetic field..


This rear cover is disgusting... Is the foam really necessary?? Can I just tear all that gunk out of there??

[koolaid_kid]

That stator is toast. Replace the R/R when you replace the stator. A Shindengen is the usual replacement part; a list of good replacements are here in this forum and on BassCliff's website.

The foam is not required; it was probably put there for sound deadening (just a guess). The goop is just chain lube. After you clean it up start using chain wax and the buildup will be much much less.

When you go to replace the items wire the 3 wires from the stator straight to the R/R. The run the output of the R/R straight to the battery with a 15-20A fuse inline.
The headlight loop was there as a legacy item and is not required at all since our headlights are on all the time.