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    #46
    Hi,

    Yes, the oil helps keep the stator cool, relatively.

    Don't remove the stator cover if your bike is on the side stand. It will make a big mess.

    Is that the front sprocket cover? I don't know why there would be insulation there. But then, I'm not that familiar with all of the larger GS chain bikes.


    Thank you for your indulgence,

    BassCliff

    Comment


      #47
      I would not assume that it needs a valve job. It is highly likely that it can use a valve adjustment though, and tight valves cause hard starting. Cliff is definitely right there,with his opinion I think. The boots between the head and the carbs look none too good in the photo, and air leaks there cause unstable idle and hanging RPM's, which it sounds like you may be experiencing.

      As a minimum, the boots need new O Rings, but when you see metal showing on them, its pretty much toast. cycleorings.com sells the O Rings at a good price with cheap quick shipping.
      sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things

      Comment


        #48
        Originally posted by BassCliff View Post
        Yes, the oil helps keep the stator cool, relatively.

        Is that the front sprocket cover? I don't know why there would be insulation there. But then, I'm not that familiar with all of the larger GS chain bikes.
        First off, yes front sprocket cover, I had assumed the foam was there for some minor reason and really not required.. just wanted to run it by some guys here before removing it..

        But back to the oil in stator housing.. I understand the desire to keep the thing cool.. what I don't understand is the fundamental electrical characteristics.. I mean when it's broken down to it's simplest form, you're creating electrical current by rotating a magnet around a copper coil..

        Correct me if I'm wrong but I could have sworn that part of that "square one" formula for creating electricity was air.. that the environment you're creating an electromagnetic field in is ambient air..

        Comment


          #49
          .........." I could have sworn that part of that "square one" formula for creating electricity was air.. that the environment you're creating an electromagnetic field in is ambient air.. "

          If you google "electricity and magnetism", your head will spin in no time and you'll lose sight of all that good info at Basscliff's.
          Any kind of relative motion between a magnet and a conductor produces electricity- magnetism can pass thru lots of "environments". Your stator failed and overheated and then some oil splashed over it to give it that Cajun look.
          The rotor has magnets in it; when it spins around the stator windings, voltage is induced in those windings. If you give the voltage someplace to go ( R/R in our case), a current will flow, i.e., power is generated. Alternatively, if stator windings ground out on themselves or the cover, excessive current can flow ,leading to a barbeque.
          1981 gs650L

          "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

          Comment


            #50
            Originally posted by kennethleemiller View Post
            .. what I don't understand is the fundamental electrical characteristics.. I mean when it's broken down to it's simplest form, you're creating electrical current by rotating a magnet around a copper coil..
            For the geek in you...

            '85 GS550L - SOLD
            '85 GS550E - SOLD
            '82 GS650GL - SOLD
            '81 GS750L - SOLD
            '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
            '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
            '82 GS1100G - SOLD
            '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

            Comment


              #51
              This may be a stupid question, but, here goes. Why are you thinking "valve job" at 26,xxx miles? My 96,xxx mile 850 hasn't had a valve job yet, runs fine but burns oil through hardened valve seals. Don't do more work than you have to.
              Next question, have you checked your valve shim clearances yet? If you've got a few that are on the tight side, a lot of those symptoms I've been reading in your thread are coming from them, due to leakage (valves being held open by too tight of clearances).
              Over my many years of playing with engines, trannies and other mechanical stuff, I've finally learned to NOT tear something down to parade rest if it doesn't really warrant that extra time and work. If you have to do it to check things out because you've got a major iron butt trip coming up, more power to you, but it sounds to me like you're giving yourself more work to do when you should be riding it.
              OK, diatribe over, carry on smartly!

              Comment


                #52
                Originally posted by DanTheMan View Post
                This may be a stupid question, but, here goes. Why are you thinking "valve job" at 26,xxx miles?
                The reason I was thinking it needed a valve job was because the times I have had it running, it's smoked pretty bad out of the exhaust... Led me to believe it needed a valve job or new rings..

                Comment


                  #53
                  Originally posted by kennethleemiller View Post
                  The reason I was thinking it needed a valve job was because the times I have had it running, it's smoked pretty bad out of the exhaust... Led me to believe it needed a valve job or new rings..
                  might do a compression check first before tearing the head apart...

                  definitely check the valve clearances... Cliff's site has all the info you need for that.


                  It's tough to isolate individual problems when so many "other projects" are in-play. Often times they are all inter-related, but not necessarily the primary culprits by themselves:
                  Does the bike not start/run because of carb issues?
                  Does the bike not start/run because of electrical issues?
                  Does the bike not start/run because of valve issues?
                  Does the bike not start/run because of a combination of all issues?

                  Shore up each of the above by performing the maintainence on each item that has most likely been neglected for lots of years.
                  1. You have already cleaned your carbs & checked for vaccum leaks.
                  2. You are working on getting the electrical system up to par (this is usually a big hitter), make sure you also check the voltage at the coils & verify you actually have good spark through each plug wire. Assuming stock coils & wires, unscrew each of the plug caps & snip about 1/4" of wire off to expose new, clean wire. Put the OEM caps back on, or replace with better NGK caps. Also clean & inspect every single, stinkin' electrical connection on the bike (including inside the headlight bucket).
                  3. Absolutely check your valve clearances - they get tighter as the valves wear & you risk burning valves if left un-checked. As Dan has stated, many of your symptoms could be related to this issue.
                  Once ALL the basics have been covered, it becomes easier to troubleshoot individual problems, simply because you have already "fixed" many of the possible causes. This is a much easier path to follow, instead of the shotgun approach.

                  Good luck, we have all been in your shoes at one time or another!

                  Mike
                  '85 GS550L - SOLD
                  '85 GS550E - SOLD
                  '82 GS650GL - SOLD
                  '81 GS750L - SOLD
                  '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
                  '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
                  '82 GS1100G - SOLD
                  '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

                  Comment


                    #54
                    Stator installed, adding new oil tomorrow and cranking her up... did a LOT of very much needed cleaning underneath that front sprocket cover today... looks like a brand new bike under there.. too bad no one will get to see it..

                    Will start looking for a stock size r/r next week.. but it shouldn't hurt the new stator to do some trial and error with the small r/r, right??? I mean really all the stator does is output a/c power..

                    I'll be heading to the head for the next part of this project and checking valve clearances is at the top of my list..

                    You've all been extremely helpful and a continued source of expertise.. Expect to see more post, updates, and questions...

                    Comment


                      #55
                      Hmm.... your old stator was toasted, and you want to try your new stator with the old mini R/R that might have catered the barbeque? Sure, do some tests, but they remember that they aren't as conclusive as actual running. Get a better R/R and while you're waiting, get the cam cover off and explore the valve clearances- PO's have been known to make mistakes.

                      P.S. excellent cleaning
                      Last edited by tom203; 02-04-2012, 07:45 AM. Reason: ps
                      1981 gs650L

                      "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                      Comment


                        #56
                        The stator won't make it run any better though.
                        sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things

                        Comment


                          #57
                          I'll make it easy! ebay item #200701746708
                          Oregon $15 with free shipping! clean Shindengen ; seller readily admits that he doesn't test them, but offers 30 day warranty. I bought an alternator off him a few weeks back.
                          1981 gs650L

                          "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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