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    #31
    And speaking of the 2nd Law of Thermodynamics we have an Aprilla Compu-Fire install with before/after thermal imaging translated from a Aprilla Forum translated from German post.



    Here is a teaser...

    Before Compu-Fire install...





    After Compu-Fire install



    Also, here is a link to a brief tutorial on the benefits of the Compu-Fire 55402 versus a Series Regulator which posplayr posted on another board...

    Last edited by Guest; 11-23-2014, 03:25 AM.

    Comment


      #32
      A series R/R does not appreciably reduce oil temperature. It may reduce stator temperature, but GS bikes don't have a lot of oil flowing up into the stator area, so the stators effect on engine temp overall is minimal, regardless of what kind of R/R you use. As an experiment I did a back to back test using the same bike, same route, same day, two different R/R's, and there was no measurable difference in oil temp.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

      Comment


        #33
        Just stumbled across this thread, and it's good timing. About to go through my 79 GS1000S. I recently had the battery negative come loose on a ride, and it (at the least) appears to have killed my regulator (an old Electrex unit), so that is in need of replacing/upgrade.

        About a year ago I did an upgrade of my Aprilia Pegaso's charging system, using a newer series regulator from an 08 Honda CBR600 and a custom wiring harness that runs the output from the RR directly to the battery (stock it was routed through part of the wiring harness, as are most bikes, and I suspect the GS1000 although I haven't looked yet). The Aprilia now shows the battery charging at a constant ~14.2 volts regardless of the engine RPM's. Before it only really charged the battery when it was revving above about 3,000 rpm.

        Anyone upgraded their GS to run the RR output directly to the battery?

        Comment


          #34
          Several people have and I have documented an analysis of the pros and conns. It is mostly a bad idea.

          Comment


            #35
            "....using a newer series regulator from an 08 Honda CBR600 and a custom wiring harness "

            you sure it is a series unit and not a mosfet Shindengen (a shunt unit ) that honda was fond of ??

            A few folks on here run the r/r positive output to battery via an inline fuse rather than into harness ... But it's better to keep factory setup. There's a simple explanation why, hopefully posplayr will direct you to that link, cuz I can't find it now
            1981 gs650L

            "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

            Comment


              #36
              Originally posted by Skowinski View Post
              Just stumbled across this thread, and it's good timing. About to go through my 79 GS1000S. I recently had the battery negative come loose on a ride, and it (at the least) appears to have killed my regulator (an old Electrex unit), so that is in need of replacing/upgrade.

              About a year ago I did an upgrade of my Aprilia Pegaso's charging system, using a newer series regulator from an 08 Honda CBR600 and a custom wiring harness that runs the output from the RR directly to the battery (stock it was routed through part of the wiring harness, as are most bikes, and I suspect the GS1000 although I haven't looked yet). The Aprilia now shows the battery charging at a constant ~14.2 volts regardless of the engine RPM's. Before it only really charged the battery when it was revving above about 3,000 rpm.

              Anyone upgraded their GS to run the RR output directly to the battery?
              I rewired my RR Pos and Neg directly to the Battery (with Fuse) to ensure the best connections. Works great! BTW, here's my custom wiring diagram for my bike. it's derived from the stock, but with a few additions/modifications for efficiency.

              Suzuki GS450T Custom wiring - color.jpg

              Comment


                #37
                I think it's better to run directly to the battery (with a fuse) because it reduces the possibility of reduced efficiency due to lacking switches, etc. in the harness.

                Comment


                  #38
                  If you look at the stock wiring diagram, positive power flows from battery thru main fuse then into harness, the r/r postive output catches up with this connection a little downstream- most output goes to power ignition, lights,etc. a little flows back thru main fuse to recharge battery as needed.
                  1981 gs650L

                  "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Read this

                    Technical Info posts that are deemed to be important or popular will be placed here for easier access. If you feel a post should be moved from the Technical Info forum to here then PM the Administrator with your request.
                    1981 gs650L

                    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Originally posted by tom203 View Post
                      "....using a newer series regulator from an 08 Honda CBR600 and a custom wiring harness "

                      you sure it is a series unit and not a mosfet Shindengen (a shunt unit ) that honda was fond of ??
                      ...
                      You are correct, and I was wrong. Its a FH008EE which is a mofset unit, but cast as an improvement over the SH series RR's (is this correct?) on the website I was following for the upgrade. Anyway, it was a big upgrade from the stock (wonky and prone to failure) old Aprilia RR, and the modification made a really big difference in the charging.

                      Comment


                        #41
                        As far as I can tell the SH series R/R line is a lineup of three at this time, The SH-775 (35A) and two 50A units under development SH-xx1 and SH-xx2. There is no improvement over series R/R's. They are the improvement. Shunt R/R's no matter how good by design are harder on Stators than Series R/R's. You have a good shunt unit but they all fall short of series by design because they are either charging or shunting through the stator 24/7. They can be fooled into overcharging if load is dropped. The series units turn on and off as needed and dropping a load such as what I did when I went from a standard headlamp to a Cree LED does not effect it. I ran a marginal heat baked stator for a year with a Series R/R and when it finally did fail it didn't bother the Series R/R at all. Replaced the Stator and I have about 40,000 miles on the Series R/R and 30'000 on the new stator at this time. Posplayr has demonstrated that hooking up to the battery directly is not a good idea. Use the original Suzuki wiring and add a single point ground system.
                        Last edited by OldVet66; 12-17-2015, 09:36 PM.
                        '78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Kawasaki wired the R/R straight to the battery, without even a fuse, on their KZ family bikes.

                          KZ750 charging system by nessism, on Flickr
                          Ed

                          To measure is to know.

                          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                            Kawasaki wired the R/R straight to the battery, without even a fuse, on their KZ family bikes.

                            KZ750 charging system by nessism, on Flickr
                            ed you failed to mention that that KAW will melt if the r/r shorts the battery.

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                              ed you failed to mention that that KAW will melt if the r/r shorts the battery.
                              In the time I've been hanging out on the KZRider forum I've yet to see a thread about such an occurrence. But there is no lack of Suzuki's with harness damage along the stator loop.
                              Ed

                              To measure is to know.

                              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Originally posted by Skowinski View Post
                                You are correct, and I was wrong. Its a FH008EE which is a mofset unit, but cast as an improvement over the SH series RR's (is this correct?) on the website I was following for the upgrade. Anyway, it was a big upgrade from the stock (wonky and prone to failure) old Aprilia RR, and the modification made a really big difference in the charging.
                                There are at least a handful of reports here of main fuses blowing as soon as the key is turned on with root cause being determined to be the R/r. In other words the r/r shorts.

                                Comment

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