Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Checking Valve Clearances: Near Disaster?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Vise grips are used on the exhaust cam when re installing the cam chain to hold it in position to set the timing

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1 View Post
      Vise grips are used on the exhaust cam when re installing the cam chain to hold it in position to set the timing


      I have NEVER had to do such a thing ever.

      Eric
      Last edited by Guest; 08-26-2012, 02:25 AM.

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by Allie View Post
        Are you serial? How do they become corroded? lots of sitting in a damp climate?
        Steel bolts in the aluminum head- dis similar metals often react and produce a corrosion
        1978 GS 1000 (since new)
        1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
        1978 GS 1000 (parts)
        1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
        1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
        1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
        2007 DRz 400S
        1999 ATK 490ES
        1994 DR 350SES

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by Big T View Post
          Steel bolts in the aluminum head- dis similar metals often react and produce a corrosion
          Well yeah I'd heard that, I assumed they needed 'help' in the form of moisture/heat, but... well I'm glad mine weren't seized.
          "Men will never be free until Mark learns to do The Twist."

          -Denis D'shaker

          79 GS750N

          Comment


            #20
            so how exactly should the cams be positioned to relieve the pressure?

            Edit: the manual doesn't say anything about it

            Comment


              #21
              Ekabil I am only thinking of how my bike is set up.
              I removed my caps with a good socket and a breaker bar. A short sharp crack beats a slow load up on a bolt.

              I removed them in a pattern in order to relieve the load on the bolts in a relatively equal pattern.

              I noted that the cam lobes would prevent me from loosening the caps where ever the cam lobes were contacting the followers on anywhere bu the heel

              I simply rotated the cams by hand in order to place the lobe and its heel where ever the resistance was greatest in turning the bolts.

              My unit has threaded adjusters though.
              You mentioned that there was still no clearance so rotating may score your cam lobes. Someone else can chime in and say more on this. Do not rotates them if there is a chance of damage.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by ekabil View Post
                so how exactly should the cams be positioned to relieve the pressure?

                Edit: the manual doesn't say anything about it
                Just crack every bolt loose and then back them out by hand with a 1/4" drive ratchet.
                You will see which ones are under pressure at the given cam location.
                Unbolt accordingly.
                I set the cams at TDC before doing any removal.
                Don't forget to remove the cam chain tensioner FIRST before unbolting the caps.

                Eric

                Comment


                  #23
                  Use the vice grip to hold the cams down while the bolts are removed, just like the picture in the Suzuki manual. There is no stress on the bearing surfaces or the bolts that way.


                  Life is too short to ride an L.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    1. no vice grips
                    2. what is a "follower" - do you mean that I should remove the bolts when the cams are in the same position as when checking clearences? ie minimize contact with the bucket?

                    at this time there is one shim in the engine. Thats why it will be tough to rotate it without causing damage. But I think it might be possible to put shims in where I can right now, and then rotate so that those valves are the ones compressed, then add more shims, etc.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      ummmmm......NO. Is there anyone near this fella to give him a hand?
                      Rob
                      1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
                      Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Don't rotate your engine again! There should be a pattern for bolt removal in the manual, there is a certain order you should break them loose to prevent tension on the cams. The visegrip idea is to take tension off the cams. It is real possible you may have bent valves. take your time, read the manual, or try to find someone to help you. terrylee

                        Comment


                          #27
                          This thread is turning into an exasperation festival

                          Ekabil cease despair and if possible post some pics with the engine top end in it current state.

                          The world is not ending and the chicken little types need to help or stfu.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            There's no mention of a pattern in the manual. It's a clymer. I'll get some pics tomorrow when I try to bust those bolts loose again.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Everything going on here scares me.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                What part of "Don't **** anything else up" don't you understand?


                                Life is too short to ride an L.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X