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    D.I.Y valve spring compressor

    Not my original idea as it was taken from another member who's name I don't recall**. (Steve??)

    Take one $6.99 harbor freight 8" (200 mm) C-clamp and screw the movable portion down until it tightens against the non-movable side. Scribe a line around the move-able pad and open the clamp fully. Find the center of the circle you made and drill a pilot hole all the way through the non-movable pad. (My drill motor was small enough to drill from the inside) Increase the size of the hole with increasingly larger drill bits until the hole will accept a 5/16"-18 tap (size F-drill bit) and tap the hole. Insert a 5/16" NC allen head cap screw into a 5/8" spark plug socket and tighten securely. Take a cutoff wheel and use it to remove a rectangle from the spark plug socket. Deburr the opening with a file.

    ** Found the thread. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...77&postcount=4

    As always the requisite pictures...




    Last edited by rustybronco; 04-08-2013, 11:39 AM.
    De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

    http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

    #2
    Now we need one that will work without taking the head off to refresh the valve stem seals.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

    Comment


      #3
      There is a way already Chuck, use a nut just big enough to go through the spark plug hole tied to a piece of fishing like or such, so you can fish it out again, slowly rotate motor to clamp nut between valve head and piston crown to firmly hold valve closed against its seat.
      Remove springs, replace valve stem seal as required.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
        Not my original idea as it was taken from another member who's name I don't recall**. (Steve??)
        OK, I'll take partial credit for that. My original version used a section of PVC pipe coupling, then I used a 24mm deep socket, but somebody else had the idea of bolting the socket to the clamp.

        Personally, I turn the clamp around and use the socket against the pad on the screw.

        .
        sigpic
        mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
        hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
        #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
        Family Portrait
        Siblings and Spouses
        Mom's first ride
        Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
        (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Flyboy View Post
          There is a way already Chuck, use a nut just big enough to go through the spark plug hole tied to a piece of fishing like or such, so you can fish it out again, slowly rotate motor to clamp nut between valve head and piston crown to firmly hold valve closed against its seat.
          Remove springs, replace valve stem seal as required.
          Whoa! A nut?! That may work out fine for you but I only do this trick with cotton rope so nothing gets scratched or bent. It works the same way, just make sure it's coming up on TDC with the valves closed and feed in some rope, instant engine shibari.To get the rope out you just rotate back a few degrees and pull it out.

          A few years ago I made up a rig with a dowel handle, a few PVC plumbing fittings and a swivel that I used to do the stem seals with the head in the frame. As I remember the handle had some sort of padded hook I'd rest on the upper frame as a pivot and then dangling off the handle was another bit of dowel and a PVC fitting with a window cut in the side to compress the spring and fish out the retainers. It worked well enough on my 16v.

          -Mac

          Comment


            #6
            2002 bmw r1150gs 1978 gs1000E skunk les pew 1979 gs1000L dragbike
            82 gs1100L probably the next project
            1980 gs1000G the ugly 1978 gs750E need any parts?
            https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m_m2oYJkx1A
            1978 gs1000E skunk #2 RLAP

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks, Eli, that thread gave me the source for the rest of the credit:

              Originally posted by Larry D View Post
              This is Brian's valve spring compressor.




              .
              sigpic
              mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
              hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
              #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
              #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
              Family Portrait
              Siblings and Spouses
              Mom's first ride
              Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
              (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Flyboy View Post
                There is a way already Chuck, use a nut just big enough to go through the spark plug hole tied to a piece of fishing like or such, so you can fish it out again, slowly rotate motor to clamp nut between valve head and piston crown to firmly hold valve closed against its seat.
                Remove springs, replace valve stem seal as required.
                Just take a length of rope and start feeding it into the cylinder when its at BDC. Feed as much as you can in and then turn the piston toward TDC. The rope will form into the required shape and not hurt any parts, while holding the valve firmly in place. Remove keepers and spring, replace valve seal and then turn crank back to BDC and pull out rope.
                1983 GS1100E

                Comment


                  #9
                  Just in case you didn't already know, if you click on the link I provided and click on where it says Hillbilly valve spring compressor in the upper right hand corner, it will take you to the complete thread.

                  There is no one right way or wrong way to use a c-clamp as a valve spring compressor. I think as long as it doesn't damage the bucket's bore and isn't too fiddly to use, which I find is the case when using a separate piece, use what ever method you like. This just another variation on the theme, which hopefully, will work for me.
                  Last edited by rustybronco; 04-08-2013, 09:57 AM.
                  De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                  http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Absolutely use the rope trick for doing the stem seals with the head installed. Do not use anything hard like a metal nut.

                    Comment

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