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Installing new chain rivet type master link without chain tool

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    Installing new chain rivet type master link without chain tool

    I was turned on to the method of installing the rivet style master links using a c-clamp and a steering ball bearing (hardened steel so it will do the job). I had no luck as the c-clamp would rock off center side to side due to the swivel part of the clamp. Using big vice grips, my buddy and I clamped and clamped and re-clamped the bearing into the drilled out end of the rivet type master link with very little deformity appearing.

    Fast forward to my bike... Tried both methods again, not really doing much other than frustrating me. Could buy the Harbor Freight master link tool I suppose, but probably junk... Then it hit me, pull my bench vice off of the bench, and hold the bearings in place on the master pins using electrical tape! Worked GREAT first try! Now I know what is meant by "make sure you have proper deformity after riveting the master link pins!

    '77 GS750 920cc heavily modded
    '97 Kawasaki KDX220R rugged terrain ripper!
    '99 Kawasaki KDX220R​ rebuild in progress
    '79 GS425stock
    PROJECTS:
    '77 Suzuki PE250 woods racer
    '77 GS550 740cc major mods
    '77 GS400 489cc racer build
    '76 Rickman CR1000 GS1000/1100
    '78 GS1000C/1100

    #2
    The bearing cage in the photos is actually a bicycle headset bearing. I think you can probably buy individual bearings at a good hardware store if you have problems sourcing them. A motorcycle or bicycle shop if no luck there.

    '77 GS750 920cc heavily modded
    '97 Kawasaki KDX220R rugged terrain ripper!
    '99 Kawasaki KDX220R​ rebuild in progress
    '79 GS425stock
    PROJECTS:
    '77 Suzuki PE250 woods racer
    '77 GS550 740cc major mods
    '77 GS400 489cc racer build
    '76 Rickman CR1000 GS1000/1100
    '78 GS1000C/1100

    Comment


      #3
      I use a center punch and a hammer.
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

      Comment


        #4
        Cycle Gear has a chain tool that looks suspiciously like the Motion Pro tool with the exception of the box color. It is routinely on sale for around $40.
        IBA# 24077
        '15 BMW R1200GS Adventure
        '07 Triumph Tiger 1050 ABS
        '08 Yamaha WR250R

        "Krusty's inner circle is a completely unorganized group of grumpy individuals uninterested in niceties like factual information. Our main purpose, in an unorganized fashion, is to do little more than engage in anecdotal stories and idle chit-chat while providing little or no actual useful information. And, of course, ride a lot and have tons of fun.....in a Krusty manner."

        Comment


          #5
          Drill a little hole in the center of the C clamp to hold the bearing from sliding around next time.
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

          Comment


            #6
            Or..............





            You could just grind a flat on one side of the bearing! Then use the tape the lock it in place. Ray.

            Comment


              #7
              Yup..thats another way to swing the cat I suppose.
              MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
              1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

              NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


              I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

              Comment


                #8
                I think I'd rather just use a clip type master link.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by almarconi View Post
                  I think I'd rather just use a clip type master link.
                  That is what I do. Never lost a one. Last year I safety wired mine just for grins.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
                    That is what I do. Never lost a one. Last year I safety wired mine just for grins.
                    me too, never had a problem with one........
                    1978 GS1085.

                    Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I safety wire AND silicone the clips on but believe the rivet links to be the best & least likely to give you issues at the worst possible moment. Ray.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        solid chains are the best as far as worry free from loosing a clip. I have a carbide burr that chuck up in the die grinder and pin ends are gone in a matter of minutes for chain removals.
                        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          There was an outfit in Albany that was re-selling the DID tool for about $60 bucks a couple years ago, glad I picked one up then.

                          I've had two links come off at speed and found a third one missing its clip before going for a ride, would like to avoid that thrill from happening again. Yes I used safety wire as well. I'd use a master link to get me to a shop to have a new chian riveted but that's about as far as I want to go on a master anymore.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by isleoman View Post

                            I've had two links come off at speed and found a third one missing its clip before going for a ride, would like to avoid that thrill from happening again. Yes I used safety wire as well. I'd use a master link to get me to a shop to have a new chian riveted but that's about as far as I want to go on a master anymore.
                            I have a similar record, but I have never had one come off from a chain that wasn't completely worn out, and never lost a safety wired and RTVed clip.

                            I like the blob of red RTV because it makes it easy to find the master link to check the safety wire before a ride.


                            Life is too short to ride an L.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Rivet links are the only way to go in today's high horsepower world. I was old school too with master links for many years.

                              Back in '86 I lost a clip then the chain at max rpm's!!! Took a chunk out of my tail section, destroyed the inner fender, chain guard, and engine chain cover. Plus bent all 8 exhaust valves.

                              That was the LAST time I ever used a clip master link again.

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