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    GS1100GK Laundry List

    Hey.

    Looking for some guidance / prodding / pointing in the right direction on my "project bike". Wasn't exactly a project bike when I bought it, but oh well I guess. Expensive mistake on my part.

    Just wanted to talk about the different things I've noted since getting it, what I 'THINK' I need to do for them, and let people chime in with whatever knowledge and experience they have.

    1) The major issue, making it un-ridable, is the drive-line. It ran fine, shifted good, from the time I got it except for one hiccup where it "slipped" out of 4th under WOT (I believe) but I was also about to upshift to 5th so I clutched, shifted, and didn't think anything else of it.
    A few weeks go by with normal riding and then I go up-hill from where she was stored, pull clutch in to downshift because I'm coming up to a right turn, shift down, and then let out and there's nothing but an angry noise to greet me. I clutch in and roll down the hill, park it, and get it back to her garage.
    As best I can tell, the issue is in the transmission. It makes a "clicky clacky grindy" noise, like when you try to shove a MT car into gear without clutching. This only happens when IN GEAR with CLUTCH OUT. In neutral, or clutch in, she will roll fine. The noise comes from the back of the transmission / front of the drive-shaft. When she is turned off, in gear, clutch out, I can roll forwards and backwards and there is a slight 'snag' where it SHOULD stop due to it being in gear, but then it just pops past it until the next one.
    Planning on stripping everything down on the new frame lift I got and just peeking around, probably taking photos and posting them here for help. Never worked on a transmission before but I'm gonna take it slow.
    2) Hard starting. I've been reading the top threads here and it seems to be common that, with mods, these bikes run LEAN if not done right. The PO drilled out the stock exhaust and put pods on it, so I have no doubts she will need to be re-jetted to run right. But does running lean cause super hard starts? Starts right up when warm, but it could sometimes take 20-30 seconds of cranking over to fire up when not heated up. This is with full choke, just cranking away. Without choke she wouldn't budge ever.

    Not sure what to do with this one, except standard carb/valves/etc.

    3) Peaky powerband. Correct me if I'm wrong, but these are Inline-4 engines so I kinda expect it to take off and pull harder to redline. But it seemed like the bike had NOTHING to offer below ~3k RPM and then it had everything to offer until I would upshift around ~7.5k (redline at 9something on the tach). Is this related to it running lean and not having proper air/fuel ratio?

    4) I did have the fuel hose pop off the tank when I opened it up WOT once and then laid off quick once I got up past the speed limit. Went up to the next gas station and bought little hose clamps and it didn't do it from then on until she broke. FWIW the fuel lines are clear. Don't know if that means aftermarket?

    Anyways I did read the top 10 newbie mistakes, and all that jazz. I couldn't get many answers from the PO about maintenance so I plan on doing EVERYTHING myself. Hoping that valves are good. Once I get the transmission apart I am going to figure out what parts I need, order those, and get to work on the valves / carbs while I wait for them to ship in. I'm new to bike maintenance so I feel a little in over my head, but she isn't my transportation so I want to take care of her the RIGHT way.

    If anybody has any input on the transmission, hard starting, and powerband please feel free to chime in. #4 was just a 'note' because I wanted to make the list complete. I'm a little upset at myself for not doing all the research and of course a little upset at the PO for not taking care of it but we all learn from our mistakes, right? Thanks for taking a gander!

    NOTE: I have searched, extensively, and read up on TONS of threads for the drive-line and starting/running weird. Half the time I couldn't understand what they were talking about. If you know of any common threads with lots of PICTURES for these issues it would be awesome. Already found a sweet carb cleaning one.

    #2
    Bad cold starting is tight valves. The carbs are probably dirty too. The no power until higher throttle openings is a sign of dirty carbs. Rejet with a jet kit or put the airbox back on too.
    sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things

    Comment


      #3
      Unfortunately I don't have a stock airbox to put back on. Might be a silly question, but will a rejet with pods (since there is more airflow) improve power from stock? Or will it just make it behave well.

      I forgot to mention that I was only getting about 33-37 MPG from it while riding, decently spirited but even on longer trips taking it easy mileage did not improve.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Vexarana View Post
        Hey.

        Looking for some guidance / prodding / pointing in the right direction on my "project bike". Wasn't exactly a project bike when I bought it, but oh well I guess. Expensive mistake on my part.

        Just wanted to talk about the different things I've noted since getting it, what I 'THINK' I need to do for them, and let people chime in with whatever knowledge and experience they have.

        1) The major issue, making it un-ridable, is the drive-line. It ran fine, shifted good, from the time I got it except for one hiccup where it "slipped" out of 4th under WOT (I believe) but I was also about to upshift to 5th so I clutched, shifted, and didn't think anything else of it.
        A few weeks go by with normal riding and then I go up-hill from where she was stored, pull clutch in to downshift because I'm coming up to a right turn, shift down, and then let out and there's nothing but an angry noise to greet me. I clutch in and roll down the hill, park it, and get it back to her garage.
        As best I can tell, the issue is in the transmission. It makes a "clicky clacky grindy" noise, like when you try to shove a MT car into gear without clutching. This only happens when IN GEAR with CLUTCH OUT. In neutral, or clutch in, she will roll fine. The noise comes from the back of the transmission / front of the drive-shaft. When she is turned off, in gear, clutch out, I can roll forwards and backwards and there is a slight 'snag' where it SHOULD stop due to it being in gear, but then it just pops past it until the next one.
        Planning on stripping everything down on the new frame lift I got and just peeking around, probably taking photos and posting them here for help. Never worked on a transmission before but I'm gonna take it slow.
        2) Hard starting. I've been reading the top threads here and it seems to be common that, with mods, these bikes run LEAN if not done right. The PO drilled out the stock exhaust and put pods on it, so I have no doubts she will need to be re-jetted to run right. But does running lean cause super hard starts? Starts right up when warm, but it could sometimes take 20-30 seconds of cranking over to fire up when not heated up. This is with full choke, just cranking away. Without choke she wouldn't budge ever.

        Not sure what to do with this one, except standard carb/valves/etc.

        3) Peaky powerband. Correct me if I'm wrong, but these are Inline-4 engines so I kinda expect it to take off and pull harder to redline. But it seemed like the bike had NOTHING to offer below ~3k RPM and then it had everything to offer until I would upshift around ~7.5k (redline at 9something on the tach). Is this related to it running lean and not having proper air/fuel ratio?

        4) I did have the fuel hose pop off the tank when I opened it up WOT once and then laid off quick once I got up past the speed limit. Went up to the next gas station and bought little hose clamps and it didn't do it from then on until she broke. FWIW the fuel lines are clear. Don't know if that means aftermarket?

        Anyways I did read the top 10 newbie mistakes, and all that jazz. I couldn't get many answers from the PO about maintenance so I plan on doing EVERYTHING myself. Hoping that valves are good. Once I get the transmission apart I am going to figure out what parts I need, order those, and get to work on the valves / carbs while I wait for them to ship in. I'm new to bike maintenance so I feel a little in over my head, but she isn't my transportation so I want to take care of her the RIGHT way.

        If anybody has any input on the transmission, hard starting, and powerband please feel free to chime in. #4 was just a 'note' because I wanted to make the list complete. I'm a little upset at myself for not doing all the research and of course a little upset at the PO for not taking care of it but we all learn from our mistakes, right? Thanks for taking a gander!

        NOTE: I have searched, extensively, and read up on TONS of threads for the drive-line and starting/running weird. Half the time I couldn't understand what they were talking about. If you know of any common threads with lots of PICTURES for these issues it would be awesome. Already found a sweet carb cleaning one.
        Most all your problems you discribe relate to carbs needing rebuilding, as far as the trans being bad, I would pull the rear wheel and check your splines in the wheel , sounds like classic stripped spline to me. Plus it is easier to do and cheaper.
        1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
        80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
        1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished
        83 gs750ed- first new purchase
        85 EX500- vintage track weapon
        1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
        “Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
        If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Vexarana View Post
          Unfortunately I don't have a stock airbox to put back on. Might be a silly question, but will a rejet with pods (since there is more airflow) improve power from stock? Or will it just make it behave well.

          I forgot to mention that I was only getting about 33-37 MPG from it while riding, decently spirited but even on longer trips taking it easy mileage did not improve.
          2c based on my recent experience - The time and effort needed to get the bike to run right with pod filters and jetting setup is greater than the time you'd spend sourcing replacement airbox parts. An airbox will also give you better mpg.
          Last edited by Guest; 09-10-2013, 12:57 AM.

          Comment


            #6
            I'll try to keep my eye out for an airbox or parts bike, definitely then. I appreciate the pointer.

            As far as the stripped splines, I know it's really just dust in the wind at this point since the tire isn't off but wouldn't the stripped splines still be a noticable issue with the bike in neutral / clutch in, since it would be related to the rear wheel spinning and not further up the drive-train?

            EDIT: Since the bike is an 82 GS1100G series, K or L or whatever it was, it has the 8 valve right? I found this handy guide (http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...lve_adjust.pdf) but it says it's only for the 8 valve and I don't want to get in there and then realize "Hey.. this photo doesn't look like this bike!"

            EDIT2: I just saw a thread here about "Help! I have pods!" and it said that a Dynojet Stage 3 kit could be bought which would 'set' my baseline essentially? If I did a full aftermarket exhaust I would need to possibly adjust it, but if I just leave the pods on that part of the repair is 'taken care of' right?
            Last edited by Guest; 09-10-2013, 04:08 AM.

            Comment


              #7
              Splines, no. It needs to be under a load. If the wheel is off, check them now.
              Yes, it is an 8 valve.
              Jetting for pods is a hassle, but has been done thousands of times. It is not rocket science. Get a Stage 3 kit and stash the parts you won't need yet, like the larger mains. If you get an aftermarket exhaust, then install the larger mains and you are done.

              Comment

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