New in New Jersey - 1981 GS750E

[Crankthat]

Welcome to the forum!
Just a little tip for before the carbs are removed.

The boots from the head to the carbs.
If you take a look you will see that the have angles.
They can be very difficult to get back in the correct placement.

This is just from people forgetting how they were on in the first place.
As the inner two are twisting in a different position then the outer two it can make it a pain in the butt to reposition them for correct carb alignment to airbox.

I marked mine and life is so much easier.
Cleaned them with alcohol.
Took a paint marker and drew a line indicating top center on each one as they appear on bike.
Put a number on each one indicating cylinder order.
Take a few good photos while you are at it.
Cheers Andy

[dorkburger]

I'm in the Somerset area. If you ever need help, my garage is practically rigged for GS work. I frequently ride a long the delaware, just gotta watch out for pot holes and fallen rocks!

I always wondered if the CNJ for yor location was New Jersey...

[180gramvinyl]

I def appreciate all the tips, guys.

1_v8_merc - I might have to take you up on that, we are pretty much neighbors.

So I had my shakedown ride this weekend - was about 100 miles to get up to my friend's place in the Poconos. Decided to take the backroads rather than the highway and that was totally the way to go. There were some sweet scenic pull off's near around the Delaware Water Gap - usually I'm blasting by via highway so it was cool to take a moment to breathe it all in. I was amused to see a pack of 10 Vespas blasting down that monster hill, ha. The amount of burger/dog shacks along the way was also sweet.

[180gramvinyl]

As far as bike performance, seems like there are a few things going on. Carb cleaning is still on the to do list as the bike has a bit of off-idle stumble. Once past that point, seems to pull through pretty strong.

So I've put in the stock airbox and stock filter - that fixed most of the other power issues I was having. When I clean the carbs I'm going to try and take into account proper jetting for the V&H 4into1. Is it worthwhile to upgrade to a K&N filter (with appropriate jetting) or are the gains not that big?

Also, it seems like the bike MAY be running on only 3 cylinders - haven't pulled the plugs to check them all but header #3 was staying cool when the others heated up real quick.

Also trying to figure out what is going on with my battery/charging system. In reading some posts on this forum, they were referring to a baseline battery reading of around 13V for a "good" battery. When fully charged, mine was only reading 12.68-12.7V. Is that close enough or would that be considered bad? (I use the same Battery Tender on my CB350 and that reads the same when fully charged). Bike cranks well and starts right up.

When I turn on the ignition, the charge just starts counting down at a good clip .01 at a time. Didn't notice much difference when turning the light on. Charges a bit at idle - up into the 13-14Vish range at 2.5K rpms but then it dives back down when hitting 4K. Seems like my first step is clean the R/R connections before diving into these legendary Stator Papers.

Fork seals need to happen too. I added air to the forks but the right side bled off almost overnight.

[180gramvinyl]

OK - been away for a while but a bit of an update. Brought the bike to a shop with the hopes of a new front tire and fork seals. Left with the tire and a few cables after quoting $1500 for fork work. (In addition to $1500 for other miscellaneous). So I still need to think about these forks but will probably figure out a way to attack them myself.

Pulled the carbs to clean and sync myself, avoiding the $600+ I was quoted for those. Definitely a learning experience and a bit more complicated than the Keihin 722a's on my CB350 but totally managable - just way more parts to keep track off. Turns out a few of the pilot jets had stripped slots. Was able to remove them with the small torx trick and some WD-40 - swapped all for with new ones.

GSXR7ED - thanks for the jetting suggestion. The bike had 120s from the PO but it really seemed like it was minimal power in the low rev range. I swapped in a set of 117.5's and man, this thing is total beast mode now. It really rips through the full rev range. Seems like a completely different bike. (Earlier in the day I was ready to kick it to the curb - poor idle mix setting and not priming the carbs made me think I'd killed it, ha).

Went for the oil change last night two - Rotella 15w40 and a FRAM filter. After reading today, I see that those have mixed reviews but I will probably do another change soon to let some of the remnants of prior evils circulate first.

[nejeff]

$1500 for what kind of fork work?? Just new seals? Sure it wasn't $150

[180gramvinyl]

Ha, I wish. That's pretty much a complete rebuild of the forks with new parts. I was told the current tubes are too pitted to do anything too them. I'll take a pic - maybe I don't know pitting but they looked OK to me. Serves me right for going to a dealer.

By looking at the estimate list, they pretty much wanted to rebuild the bike from scratch with OEM parts. They told me setting the points and timing on a CB350 would be $350 as well.

[Phred]

Now that sounds to me like a real rip off. Took me a few hours to install progressive springs in my forks,and change the oil. My seals were fine but there would have been a bit more work in that as well. And $350 for setting the points and timing? Everything you need to know can be found on this site or Basscliff's site. I find that doing it myself has given me an incredible sense of accomplishment. Best of luck!

[BigD_83]

Ha, I wish. That's pretty much a complete rebuild of the forks with new parts. I was told the current tubes are too pitted to do anything too them. I'll take a pic - maybe I don't know pitting but they looked OK to me. Serves me right for going to a dealer.

By looking at the estimate list, they pretty much wanted to rebuild the bike from scratch with OEM parts. They told me setting the points and timing on a CB350 would be $350 as well.

umm...find another shop, or consider doing all of the work yourself. That shop has zero interest in making you happy. $350 for setting points and timing a 350? What is that, an hour's worth of work normally? Even if it took them two hours they are doubly charging you.

[GSXR7ED]

OK - been away for a while but a bit of an update. Brought the bike to a shop with the hopes of a new front tire and fork seals. Left with the tire and a few cables after quoting $1500 for fork work. (In addition to $1500 for other miscellaneous). So I still need to think about these forks but will probably figure out a way to attack them myself.

Pulled the carbs to clean and sync myself, avoiding the $600+ I was quoted for those. Definitely a learning experience and a bit more complicated than the Keihin 722a's on my CB350 but totally managable - just way more parts to keep track off. Turns out a few of the pilot jets had stripped slots. Was able to remove them with the small torx trick and some WD-40 - swapped all for with new ones.

GSXR7ED - thanks for the jetting suggestion. The bike had 120s from the PO but it really seemed like it was minimal power in the low rev range. I swapped in a set of 117.5's and man, this thing is total beast mode now. It really rips through the full rev range. Seems like a completely different bike. (Earlier in the day I was ready to kick it to the curb - poor idle mix setting and not priming the carbs made me think I'd killed it, ha).

Went for the oil change last night two - Rotella 15w40 and a FRAM filter. After reading today, I see that those have mixed reviews but I will probably do another change soon to let some of the remnants of prior evils circulate first.

Cool! Glad it worked out for you. Those 117.5s worked great at the 6K feet elevation in Alamogordo, NM. It's what Rob from Z1 sent me and what MrBill helped me install on my bike.

Sadly, I took my bike home to Delaware but I did not bring her to Panama City, FL. She has a valve cover oil leak as well as leaking fork oil on the left side. If it gets on the new front brake pads I installed, I'll have to replace them too. For now...she is on center stand/not leaking and in my garage.



Well, keep up with the updates!


Ed

[180gramvinyl]

Guys, I was in a bit of a dark place. Got pretty frustrated and listed this on craigstlist a few months ago - no takers, ha. Had a bit of a change of heart and figured I might as well dive in and make a learning experience out of this. Things that have transpired in the past few months:

1. clean garage so I have a small space to work
2. Setup 1000W worklight so I can finally see
3. installed center stand + purchased a tiny jack. first time either wheel has left the ground in my possession. probably won't be able to leave it on for riding as it hits the muffler...low priority right now

4. FINALLY REMOVED THAT GODAWFUL FAIRING. That was a make it or break it point for me. I had considered before but the wire patching going on in there made me a bit apprehensive. Ended up just taking out all the wiring from the fairing and stuffing it under the stock headlight bucket. I can probably chop off a foot of wire but that will be for another day. I'll have to post some pics but I briefly had the new (to me) square bucket installed. Previous owner did a patchy silver job so i'm going to strip and just do rattlecan black. Any suggestions for getting the paint off plastic? Wire wheel or something?

5. FORKS! Time has finally come. Ordered some seals and a set of Sonic Springs. Forks are off and partly disassembled. Fork bolts are super stuck. I rounded one of the bottom bolts so that will be a problem. I guess just drill it out and hope for the best? Maybe jam a torx in there first like a stuck carb jet? I hear air wrench is the way to go. I'm contemplating picking up this cheap guy from HF and hoping it works? I have the smallest compressor (3gal) which I know is nowhere close to enough for an air wrench but I'm wondering if it would have enough power for a good single blast? I don't need the extended use at this time. Thoughts?

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/impact-wrenches/3-8-eighth-inch-impact-wrench-93296.html

If I can get them apart, I'll probably replace the bushings (and I believe there are a few other pieces Mr. Bill typically suggests removing) - if not, I'll make due with the new seals/springs for the moment. The leg with the rounded bolt moves super smooth. The other seems a bit "grainy" - hoping a bit more cleaning the internals will ease that up. I do have a slight bit of rust/pits on the tubes - hoping a can clean that up a bit rather than needing new tubes yet. Grainy one actually was NOT leaking.

[180gramvinyl]

Also got some Gaitors for the forks!

To do next:

6. Front Wheel bearings - might as well since the wheel is off, right? Having trouble getting this bearing out though - bashed one pretty good. Might try to borrow a blind hole puller from Autozone or something. Need to get some of the 6302RS bearings for replacement.

7. Front brakes - def need a good cleaning/bleeding. Haven't taken them apart yet so we'll see how bad it is.

Rear will be next after the current in-process list. Bearings + brakes to start...

I'm getting some rear wheel wobble - reading up on things, it seems like swingarm bearings/bushings/etc might be to blame? Seems a bit more complicated so I might consult with a shop once I get to that point.

[GSXR7ED]

Cool, cool!

Staying in tune to this thread.

Ed

[dorkburger]

Good on you for sticking with it. Wiring can be frustrating, so be patient. One wire at a time if need be. Ive found out the hard way too many times.

DO NOT wire wheel the plastic! Ive read a few posts pertaining to paint removal from plastic, but dont recall the products mentioned. If the existing paint is solid (not flaking) you may just be able to wet sand it and paint over it, but im far from a paint expert.

Good luck.

[180gramvinyl]

DO NOT wire wheel the plastic! Ive read a few posts pertaining to paint removal from plastic, but dont recall the products mentioned. If the existing paint is solid (not flaking) you may just be able to wet sand it and paint over it, but im far from a paint expert.

Good luck.

Ha, good to know on the paint. It actually looks like the PO tried something similar as it was real rough and ugly. I got one of these but hadn't tried it yet

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-4-in-x-1-in-Non-Woven-Drill-Mount-Quick-Strip-Disc-PNW040100D01G/202830913

Too cold to paint right now anyway - real brisk tonight. I might just do it down and dirty for the moment - might swap to a round headlight once the wiring gets cleaned up. All that extra fairing cable would never fit in the round bucket.