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    Have to squeeze lever hard for brake light

    I have a 1982 GS650G. A couple times after getting off the highway, a car that had been trailing me let me know that my brake light wasn't coming on when I slowed down. I immediately ordered a new brake light switch for the right hand grip/lever. I installed it as soon as I got it in, and I could see the brake light come on when I squeezed the lever.

    Soon after, I had another car driver tell me my brake light was out. I found that the light does come on, but I have to squeeze the lever in really hard.

    What sort of adjustment would I have to make so the brake light comes on with a lighter lever pull? I can't quite figure out what to do. I appreciate any help you can give me.

    Thanks,
    Craig

    #2
    Loosen the screw and slide the switch a little bit towards the outboard end of it's track.
    Test it as you slide it, get it in just the right spot. No need to rmove the screws, just loosen them.
    You should fix your rear brake light switch too, it's kind of like a back up for the front one.


    Life is too short to ride an L.

    Comment


      #3
      And a thin flat tip just pressing on the brown waffle board will move it easier..and a tad further than the plastic cap will allow.
      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

      Comment


        #4
        Perhaps the other guys dont't realize you don't know where the F brake switch is in the brake perch. Look under with for where the wire comes out and follow the directions above depending on the type of switch.

        Comment


          #5
          I have even had to remove the assembly because some previous owners had the waffle board installed the wrong way and it simply ran out of adjustment on the oval slots. IF IF you do have to remove the assembly, stick a baggie over the end of the bars and poke the screw driver thru the bag and remove it. This will catch everything thats gonna be falling out.

          Loosening the 10 MM bolts on the clamp will allow you to roll the switch up a bit too. easier to disassemble and to reassemble.

          I put just a dab of super glue on the very end of the little spring and put it back into the black plastic holder..they stay put then. Just an ever so slight amount does the trick.
          Last edited by chuck hahn; 05-09-2014, 06:13 PM.
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
            I have even had to remove the assembly because some previous owners had the waffle board installed the wrong way and it simplynran out of adjustment on the oval slots. IF IF you do have to remove the assembly, stiick a baggie over the end of the batrs and poke the screw driver thru the bnag and remove it. This will catch everything thats gonna be falling out.

            Looseninmg the 10 MM bolts on the clamp will allow you to roll the switch up a bit too. easier to diosassemble and to reassemble.

            I put just a dab of super glue on the very end of the little spring and put it back into the black plastic holder..they stay put then. Just an ever so slight amount does the trick.
            Super tips for this annoying job! A+!
            "Men will never be free until Mark learns to do The Twist."

            -Denis D'shaker

            79 GS750N

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
              I put just a dab of super glue on the very end of the little spring and put it back into the black plastic holder..they stay put then. Just an ever so slight amount does the trick.
              Mine has a spring inside it user glue would remove the ability of it slide up and down in the casing.

              IMO you are better replacing the little Pin assembly.

              Comment


                #8
                It worked!

                Thanks for all your help and suggestions! It was about 85 degrees in Chicago today, so I left work a little early to try this out--haha... I took tkent02's advice, loosened the screws of the switch and slid it towards the outside of the handlebar. That worked perfectly, and now the brake light comes on right away.

                It drives me a little crazy that the solution was so simple, but sometimes I overthink things. I really appreciate everyone's help, even the ones I didn't get to. Thank you!

                Comment


                  #9
                  I keep my foot brake adjusted so I can activate the brake light before actually engaging the brake. Sometimes helps with tailgaters.
                  1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                  2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yeah, I've been using my foot brake to activate the light more than anything else. Now I can feel comfortable operating the hand brake by itself at times, without being so worried about the people behind me.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      If someone (that would be me) has been over zealous lubing the pivot bolt for the front brake, I've seen a build up of oil and dirt in those trigger units and that will cause them not to function. Take it apart, though mind that little spring, clean it out good. I would take some fine sand paper and clean the copper contacts as well. Mine is adjusted to where I barely put pressure on the brake lever and the light comes on. That might be a bit too sensitive for some.
                      sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
                      1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
                      2015 CAN AM RTS


                      Stuff I've done to my bike 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Mine was doing the same thing, PO lost the spring, ball point pen, wire snips. The post that meets up with the handle was worn...... So I put a piece of heat shrink over the post, shrunk it on, adjusted, done.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          That's exactly how my old switch was when I replaced it--it was totally filled with grease. I thought that might be the cause of the problem, so I hung onto that switch, but still installed the new one.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Old guy View Post
                            Mine was doing the same thing, PO lost the spring, ball point pen, wire snips. The post that meets up with the handle was worn...... So I put a piece of heat shrink over the post, shrunk it on, adjusted, done.
                            Hey, Old guy. Could you be a little more specific on how you solved this problem. I've got a handbrake that is missing the spring and maybe something else. All I've got is a little plastic piece inside the housing.
                            2011 Honda Shadow 750RS (Sold)
                            1979 Suzuki GS850 (Sold)
                            2002 Yamaha Virago 250 (First Bike)(Sold)
                            1980 Suzuki GN400 (Parting Out)
                            1980 Honda CB650C (Bobber)(Sold)
                            1980 Suzuki GS550 (Street Tracker)
                            2013 Yamaha Super Tenere (Sold)
                            1979 Suzuki GS1000 (Daily)
                            1977 Yamaha XS750 (Sold)

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Tanerrc View Post
                              Hey, Old guy. Could you be a little more specific on how you solved this problem. I've got a handbrake that is missing the spring and maybe something else. All I've got is a little plastic piece inside the housing.
                              You can eliminate the mechanical switch all together and install a hydraulic brake fluid switch. I did that to both mechanical switches on my bike, works just fine.
                              sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
                              1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
                              2015 CAN AM RTS


                              Stuff I've done to my bike 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

                              Comment

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