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Transmission grinds into 1st gear and into 2nd

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    #1

    Transmission grinds into 1st gear and into 2nd

    I own a 82 GS850. I put in a new clutch cable, and for a few weeks now these are the symptoms I've been having.

    I turn the bike on in Neutral, and when i shift into 1st, it grinds for a second then goes in... not a pleasant sound.

    Sometimes when i switch from 1st - 2nd, it will end up in Neutral and grind into second, but only sometimes.

    All the other gears go in find and are smooth.

    What is wrong? do i need to adjust my clutch cable or what?
    Tags: 1st gear, clutch, grind
    #2
    I would say the cable needs just a tad more tightening so the pressure plate fully releases when you squeeze the clutch. When the lever is relesaed ( your not squeezing it ) how much play is there between the lever at the hinge and the perch edge where they both mate up? Should be able to wiggle the lever a little..like maybe 3/16 inch or so and then start feeling pressure from the cable actuating the clutch.

    One thing to do is to drop it into first and shut off the engine. Pull in the clutch lever and hit the start button. If its grabbing as your trying to start it then youll know the clutch is out of adjustment and needs some tuning.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

    Comment

      #3
      The clutch is fully engaging because when i start the bike in first gear it does not jump or anything. I just went out there to adjust the clutch and there is a good amount of play in the clutch.

      Comment

        #4
        Has been a while since ive seen an 850 tranny case top, so refresh my memory here. Is the top threaded holder the cable screws into to the rear or front of the linkage? In other words, to hook the cable to the linkage does the hole for the pin on the linkage face to the rear of the bike like the 1000s do?

        In any case, point is to remove the linkage and be sure the shaft is rotated all the way till it is tight against the release bearing in there. Then the linkage goes on and should be parallel to the clutch cover..basically facing straight back. Then the cable atattches. May have to adjust the cable on top of the tranny so you can get the pin in. Then you check the levers play and make the bigger adjustments down below and use the adjuster at the perch for the fine tuning.

        Point being you have to be sure that when you squeeze the lever the clutch pressure plate is fully disengaging. This why i asked if there was any slightest hint that the clutch was trying to grab it when in gear with the lever pulled and you hitting the button. If it even slightly feels like the bike wants to move then the cable still isnt fully disengaging the clutch and it needs more adjustment.
        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

        Comment

          #5
          Adjust the clutch according to the manual, starting with the lever at the clutch cover. Your clutch isn't fully releasing (disengaging) when you pull the lever. There shouldn't be "a good amount of play".

          Comment

            #6
            As Ray said...just a little gap at the lever and perch where the edges mesh together. No more than 3/16 or less. Needs just a little slop so that when you release the lever the cable fully extends and doesnt make the pressure plate slip below and smoke the clutch.
            MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
            1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

            NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


            I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

            Comment

              #7
              Been a few days now..get it sorted out???
              MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
              1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

              NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


              I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

              Comment

                #8
                So i managed to fix the clutch cable so that there is some play in the clutch, however, it still grinds into first.

                When i start the bike in 1st, then take it out to Neutral, and put it back in, it dosent grind.

                When i start the bike in neutral, then it will grind into first gear every time.

                Comment

                  #9
                  What is your idle RPM? What is the history of this bike? Are you pushing the shifter gently into gear or giving it a light but quick tap? The five pairs of gears are always meshed, as it is a constant mesh tranmission. The grinding you hear is not the gear teeth grinding like a car with it's synchromesh transmission, but the shift dogs on the sides of each gear. Grinding them is a bad thing, it will eventually lead to popping out of gear under load.


                  Life is too short to ride an L.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    My idle rpm is from 1000-2000rpm. If i try and give it a light quick tap, it won't go in. I have to push down real hard for it get past the grind and into gear.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      RPMs should be steady at around 1200. Too fast and youll grind the gears and it will make a real loud clunk when it does hit
                      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                        Has been a while since ive seen an 850 tranny case top, so refresh my memory here. Is the top threaded holder the cable screws into to the rear or front of the linkage? In other words, to hook the cable to the linkage does the hole for the pin on the linkage face to the rear of the bike like the 1000s do?

                        In any case, point is to remove the linkage and be sure the shaft is rotated all the way till it is tight against the release bearing in there. Then the linkage goes on and should be parallel to the clutch cover..basically facing straight back. Then the cable atattches. May have to adjust the cable on top of the tranny so you can get the pin in. Then you check the levers play and make the bigger adjustments down below and use the adjuster at the perch for the fine tuning.

                        Point being you have to be sure that when you squeeze the lever the clutch pressure plate is fully disengaging. This why i asked if there was any slightest hint that the clutch was trying to grab it when in gear with the lever pulled and you hitting the button. If it even slightly feels like the bike wants to move then the cable still isnt fully disengaging the clutch and it needs more adjustment.
                        Hey so i put my bike into first gear today and started it and i could feel like the bike was trying to move forward and it kinda felt like it was lugging the engine. How do i fix this? thanks in advance!

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Adjust the cable again...you didnt do it enough yet. If you did it before and it went away..but is back again..your cable is about to snap. Its stretched to the limits and is about to go.
                          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            old clutch cable no grind
                            new clutch cable grind
                            Get the right clutch cable.
                            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                            Comment

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