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issues with my 1980 GS 850 with stage 3 Dynojet

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    issues with my 1980 GS 850 with stage 3 Dynojet

    I'm having issues with my 1980 GS 850 with Dynojet stage 3 165 main jets, I've cleaned the carbs recently.

    When I get to 4500-6000 RPMs it bogs down and it slowly accelerates but you can definitely feel the difference.


    I have a 4 to 1 Vance & Hines exhaust with pods. I understand the bike is running too lean with the 165 main jets, my question is

    would you recommend going down to stage 1 and change the main jets to 155? and based on that its just going to be a trial and error base diagnostic?


    #2
    Im assuming stage 1 based on what this says, and how lean the bike is running at those RPMs

    "STAGE 3 Dynojet Kit Fits 80-83 Suzuki GS850 8-Valve (all) Kit Includes (4) 155 Main Jets, (4) 160 Main Jets, (4) 165 Main Jets, (4) Main Air Corrector, (4) Fuel Needles, (4) Adjusting Washers, (4) E-Clips, (1) Tool, (1) Glue, (1) Screw, (1) Slide Drill, (1) Plug Drill

    Information:
    STAGE 1: Intended for motorcycles with a stock engine using the stock airbox, air filter and stock pipe. Stage 1 kits are fully adjustable to allow the use of a well designed aftermarket pipes and stock replacement air filters like K&N. Stage 1 kits are designed to improve throttle response and driveability and in most cases power increases of approximately 5% throughout the entire power range can be achieved.

    STAGE 2: Intended for motorcycles with a stock or mildly tuned engine using a well designed aftermarket pipe with a modified airbox and a stock replacement air filter. Stage 2 kits are designed for applications where individual filters cannot be installed and for applications where airbox modification improves the engine's performance. In most cases power increases of approximately 8% can be achieved.

    STAGE 3: Intended for motorcycles with stock or mildly tuned engines using a well designed aftermarket pipe and individual air filters. In most cases power increases of 10-15% can be achieved."

    http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDet...px?item=DJ3306

    Comment


      #3
      If you are running lean with 165s, how do you think you are going to fix it wth 155s?

      .
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      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
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      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Steve View Post
        If you are running lean with 165s, how do you think you are going to fix it wth 155s?

        .
        I have no idea, I figured since stock is 115 and the 165 is letting too much fuel and not burning that anything smaller than 165 would help. I'm new to motorcycles so I'm just asking for advice

        Comment


          #5
          It is possible that your petcock is not flowing enough fuel to the carburetors. Do you have an inline fuel filter between petcock and carburetors?
          Have you done basic maintenance to the bike (adjusted valves, verified that timing is correct..etc)? When you cleaned the carburetors did you
          take them completely apart or just spray them with carburetor cleaner?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by almarconi View Post
            It is possible that your petcock is not flowing enough fuel to the carburetors. Do you have an inline fuel filter between petcock and carburetors?
            Have you done basic maintenance to the bike (adjusted valves, verified that timing is correct..etc)? When you cleaned the carburetors did you
            take them completely apart or just spray them with carburetor cleaner?
            Yes I adjusted the valves and checked compression on the bike, everything is in great shape, besides this issue

            Comment


              #7
              the RPM range you mention is usually a needle issue.
              have you tried raising the needle?

              Comment


                #8
                No I haven't how many turns or how do you suggest I do so?

                Comment


                  #9
                  neeeeedle not mixture.
                  the needle is in your slides.
                  there is grooves in the needles.
                  there is an e clip that snaps in the groove.
                  where is it now and where does dynajet say to install it?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    i used 160 mains cant remember the the clip position, but i would start in the middle, i ended up using the stock pilot jets, with the top mixture screws 4 turns out from the bottom.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      im going to try this and check back after the weekend

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by blowerbike View Post
                        neeeeedle not mixture.
                        the needle is in your slides.
                        there is grooves in the needles.
                        there is an e clip that snaps in the groove.
                        where is it now and where does dynajet say to install it?
                        I dont know wheres its at right now until i take it apart this weekend

                        but the kit says "PlaceE-clip ingroove #3from thetop"
                        Dynojet Jet Kits Whether you run a standard motorcycle, or a tuned sportbike, Dynojet Carburetor Jet Kits can provide you with a simple and affordable solution to all your carburetion problems. Dynojet Jet Kits increase power and smoothness throughout the entire rev range, while maintaining optimum fuel economy. Each Dynojet Jet Kit includes comprehensive instructions which show step-by-step installation and testing procedures to ensure a perfect setup every time. This is backed by free telephone and Internet support to Dynojet customers. Kit installation and Dynamometer services are available in many parts of the world. Please see the Dynamometer Center Search Page to locate your nearest dyno shop. Read Full Description Jet Kit Types Needle & Needle Jet Caps Many newer bikes have very flat power and fuel delivery curves when used with the stock exhaust and air-box. When aftermarket pipes are used, the power curve is usually not flat. You find the need to lean out for low speed and richen up for top end; or leaner on the top end and richer at the low speed. In order to achieve full function and driveability, Dynojet develops shrouds or cap style nozzles for adjusting the upper or lower top end. They also have an effect similar to fuel injection by breaking up the fuel as it enters the air stream. Fuel Needle The design of the needle is where Dynojet spends most of its R&D time. The needle is designed to give the correct amount of fuel throughout the mid-range and is also designed to allow adjustment from groove 1 to groove 6 with little or no effect below 3000 R.P.M.; then with the correct end dimensions, the needle will have little effect on the main jet regardless of needle position. This isolates all circuits from each other and ensures easy set-up of the midrange and driveability. Main Air Jet This jet allows air into the emulsion tube to mix with fuel being drawn up from the float bowl. It controls the amount of fuel which can be pulled from the float bowl into the venturi. The larger the size of the main air jet, the more air you get and less fuel. The smaller the main air jet, the more fuel you get and less air. Dynojet alters this only to achieve the flattest possible fuel delivery curve. Pilot Circuit This controls 100% of the engine idle and 25% of the transition onto the needle. Dynojet has found that the engine will idle with the standard pilot jet, with or without the air-box and with the slides and needles removed from the carburetors; therefore we never change the pilot jet. Doing so is proof that you are not using the other circuits correctly. Idle and off idle is controlled by the mixture screws and the float level which have the most positive effect below 4000 R.P.M. On some models the pilot air jet is changed to provide optimum fuel economy. Correct balancing of the carburetors also ensures a smooth idle. Main Jet We develop our main jets to correctly serve two functions; static load and dynamic load. The static load is the fuel received through the main jet in the upper gears, where the tachometer is moving very slow. The dynamic fueling portion of the main jet is the amount of fuel received from the jet in the mid-range potion of the power. For example, you have a GSXR1100 G,H with #130 main jets. You then install #125 mains. After running the bike you notice the top end has improved but the mid-range doesn't pull as well. You then install #135 mains and you notice the mid-range is great but the top end is slower. This is a common compromise when using stock main jets and needles. If you install Dy 93 Dealers Orders Dealer Orders "Dealer Orders Dynojet Research Inc. dealers much call in to place an order. Please call us at: 1-800-992-4993 (Toll Free)/Suzuki/GS850/1983

                        Comment


                          #13
                          the snap rings out can be a mother...
                          i use hemo stats that i modified the tips just a little.
                          not much room for snap ring pliers inside of the slide..

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I've found that a set of these does help in getting e-clip buggers out:



                            The extended tips allow you to see the holes in the clips much easier. A real PITA when trying to use standard snap ring pliers.

                            1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
                            1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
                            1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

                            Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.

                            JTGS850GL aka Julius

                            GS Resource Greetings

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Hey I've recently installed stage 3 on my 1980 GS850G. Does anyone know what to do with the tube that goes from the top of the engine to the airbox after installing pods (there is some exhaust coming from it. Should I make it longer so it all gets sucked up into the pods, or can I plug it so I don't have this exhaust perfuming me?)? @almarconi: Do you recommend the inline fuel filter?

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