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    #16
    Originally posted by Fjbj40 View Post
    If you have not drained and flushed the tank yet then that would be your first step.

    Once you getting running properly put it bed properly!

    running it at idle once a week will cause more damage than good. Put stabilizer in fuel, teaspoon of oil down cylinder if you wish and call it good. Starting it up and letting it idle will create moisture inside the engine, in other words the engine will not get hot enough to burn of the moisture just by idling it.
    tank has fresh fuel but i dumped it out the top, idk why i didnt just drain it through the petcock. im surprised to hear that running the bike once in awhile would be bad for it, i've always done this with cars i wasn't using much.

    Comment


      #17
      Shorting across the posts with a screw driver just simulates what the normal operation of the selenoid would do. When you push the starter button the current is sent to the selenoid via the yellow trigger wire. Now two things must be in order for the selenoid to actuate when you press the starter button.

      First, the selenoid has to have a good ground.
      Second, the coil must be working in the selenoid and the rod is not stuck.

      You MUST verify the selenoid is working. By disconnecting the yellow wire and going directly to the positive on the battery ( and maybe adding a ground wire from the mounting bolt to the battery negative also) will instantly tell you if the selenoid is good or not. If you have a for sure solid ground and you run a jumper to the yellow wire and it doesnt crank the bike the selenoid is bad...No way around that.

      If it DOES cranks the bike..then hook the yellow trigger wire back to the harness and retry the starter button. If it wont crank then the problem is in the starter button or the wiring from the fuse box thru the button that feeds the power to the trigger wire.

      I repainted the frame on my 78 1000C and when i hit the button it was dead as a rock..which it was fine when i took the harness out. An added on ground wire directly to the battery negative and it fired right off again.

      Its impairative to have sure good grounds on the componenets mounted to the side battery box panel.
      Last edited by chuck hahn; 11-03-2015, 06:01 PM.
      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

      Comment


        #18
        If the bike has to set a long winter period heres what I would do to winterize it so it fires up in the spring.

        1) Fill the tank to the very bottom of the filler neck and add a few ounces of fuel stabalizer.
        2) Undo the vacuum and main fuel lines so if the petcock goes bad during hibernation it doesnt fill the crank case with gas.
        3) Drain the carb bowls and leave the drains out overnight to ensure the air gets a chance to dry the bowls and jets. Close drains the next day so bugs cant get into the bowls.
        4) Put a battery tender that has the automatic on / hold feature on the battery and be sure the battery is topped off if its a servicable battery.

        Doing these few things takes little time and will make the start of the next riding season much more pleasant for you.
        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
          Shorting across the posts with a screw driver just simulates what the normal operation of the selenoid would do. When you push the starter button the current is sent to the selenoid via the yellow trigger wire. Now two things must be in order for the selenoid to actuate when you press the starter button.

          First, the selenoid has to have a good ground.
          Second, the coil must be working in the selenoid and the rod is not stuck.

          You MUST verify the selenoid is working. By disconnecting the yellow wire and going directly to the positive on the battery ( and maybe adding a ground wire from the mounting bolt to the battery negative also) will instantly tell you if the selenoid is good or not. If you have a for sure solid ground and you run a jumper to the yellow wire and it doesnt crank the bike the selenoid is bad...No way around that.

          If it DOES cranks the bike..then hook the yellow trigger wire back to the harness and retry the starter button. If it wont crank then the problem is in the starter button or the wiring from the fuse box thru the button that feeds the power to the trigger wire.

          I repainted the frame on my 78 1000C and when i hit the button it was dead as a rock..which it was fine when i took the harness out. An added on ground wire directly to the battery negative and it fired right off again.

          Its impairative to have sure good grounds on the componenets mounted to the side battery box panel.
          Holy crap I just realized I have it grounded to a part of the frame that it wasn't grounded on before. That could be the obvious problem with the electrical system. Ill try grounding it to a different place and see if that works. If not I'll try what you said about the solenoid. That still doesn't address the reason it wont idle when cranking though lol.

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
            If the bike has to set a long winter period heres what I would do to winterize it so it fires up in the spring.

            1) Fill the tank to the very bottom of the filler neck and add a few ounces of fuel stabalizer.
            2) Undo the vacuum and main fuel lines so if the petcock goes bad during hibernation it doesnt fill the crank case with gas.
            3) Drain the carb bowls and leave the drains out overnight to ensure the air gets a chance to dry the bowls and jets. Close drains the next day so bugs cant get into the bowls.
            4) Put a battery tender that has the automatic on / hold feature on the battery and be sure the battery is topped off if its a servicable battery.

            Doing these few things takes little time and will make the start of the next riding season much more pleasant for you.

            easy enough and i already have the battery tender!

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
              If the bike has to set a long winter period heres what I would do to winterize it so it fires up in the spring.

              1) Fill the tank to the very bottom of the filler neck and add a few ounces of fuel stabalizer.
              2) Undo the vacuum and main fuel lines so if the petcock goes bad during hibernation it doesnt fill the crank case with gas.
              3) Drain the carb bowls and leave the drains out overnight to ensure the air gets a chance to dry the bowls and jets. Close drains the next day so bugs cant get into the bowls.
              4) Put a battery tender that has the automatic on / hold feature on the battery and be sure the battery is topped off if its a servicable battery.

              Doing these few things takes little time and will make the start of the next riding season much more pleasant for you.
              Good stuff Chuck, I will add that a fresh oil change before winter is good also. Drains off any moisture or corrosive agents in the old oil.
              1978 Gs1085 compliments of Popy Yosh, Bandit 1200 wheels and front end, VM33 Smoothbores, Yosh exhaust, braced frame, ported polished head
              1983 Gs1100ESD, rebuild finished! Body paintwork happening winter 2017

              I would rather trust my bike to a technician that reads the service manual than some backyardigan that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix things.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by Fjbj40 View Post
                Good stuff Chuck, I will add that a fresh oil change before winter is good also. Drains off any moisture or corrosive agents in the old oil.
                Ahead of that one, just had a fresh oil and filter change. and boy did it need it!

                Comment


                  #23
                  Doesnt matter where on the frame its grounded..long as the connection is clean and solid. The main ground cable goes to the engine case which in turn makes the rest of the frame a ground because the engine is bolted to the frame.

                  I suggested a wire around one of the mounting bolts and to the battery negative because its just a short run and easy to do.
                  MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                  1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                  NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                  I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                    Doesnt matter where on the frame its grounded..long as the connection is clean and solid. The main ground cable goes to the engine case which in turn makes the rest of the frame a ground because the engine is bolted to the frame.

                    I suggested a wire around one of the mounting bolts and to the battery negative because its just a short run and easy to do.
                    yeah im not sure where i grounded it was a good place, and i think there was another ground that I just slapped on the same bolt. definitely need to check that haha since i think it was where the side cover gets mounted, so ill have to move it anyway
                    Last edited by Guest; 11-03-2015, 07:20 PM.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      ok gs junkies, i am one more step toward success, but at the same time i feel like i got nowhere.

                      went out today to make sure it was even getting any fuel. took the drain bolt off the carbs: nothing. okay so there's no fuel delivery.
                      So, next i took a look at the fuel line in an attempt to get it off and realized that it was so long that the line went straight up into the tank cavity before going down to the carbs. well no sht its not going to get any gas that way hahahaha.
                      So i took the line off and to my surprise a tiny bit of gas did come out. But before I reattached the newly cut line, i wondered maybe i should test the petcock first...

                      so i grabbed a funnel and a cup, attached the cut off section to the petcock and ran the line to the funnel (you know so i wouldnt have gas going everywhere)
                      then i turned the petcock counterclockwise as i hear is the proper rotation and slowly turned it hoping to see gas come out at a certain point once i reached "prime"

                      still nothing. another roadblock i realized is that i have no idea which position to set it to run! there is only prime, an arrow next to it, a dimple of sorts. So is that the run setting? or the off setting?

                      anywhoo, i pulled the petcock out to see if perhaps the fuel filter was gummed up. Nope, completely clean. So i put the petcock back on and tried giving the vaccum line a suction while on both run and prime. gas came out of the main line the same way for both settings and cuts off when the suction is released. so i figure, okay my prime setting has gone bad, but it should be able to feed gas once its running due to the suction.

                      alright...so i hook the tank back up the main fuel line and give it about some suction. let me clarify what i mean. i have a hose that has a balloon ball in the middle, so if you squeeze it then block the end and release the balloon it fills back up with air gradually, hence suction. so i did that about three times thinking this would be enough to fill the bowls as i filled an entire solo cup with that many pulls testing it.

                      hooked the vaccum line back on and tried giving her a start with the solenoid bypass. still nothing.
                      i then cracked the right bowl drain screw and there was again no gas. then i unscrewed the lefthand one which is lower since the bike is on the kickstand, and gas comes pouring out. At this point i'm heading to bed, but perhaps maybe i just needed to pull more gas? how much is too much? how would i even know? i dont want to flood the engine!

                      Comment


                        #26
                        You should check the on/off switch on the handlebars. If that is not functioning it will not start even bypassing the solenoid. The starter button will not work either as long as that switch is off ( or corroded ). I've had two do the same thing because of corrosion. They just needed some contact cleaner to work.
                        1982 GS750EZ
                        1978 GS750EC

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Petcock handle facing rear of bike is PRIme, straight down is ON, and facing forward is RESereve. If it doesnt flow fuel freely ( without sucking on the vacuum) then the petcock isnt working right. PRIme doesnt require suction to flow.

                          In the ON spot, you should suck on the vacuum and fuel flow and it stops when suction is released. Same with REServe.
                          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            I had the spark plug wires connected to the wrong plugs on the left side. started right up. had to make some idle screw adjustments to get it idling right...im an idiot. hahaha

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