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Pruchased spare parts bike 1981 GS850G blowing black smoke cracked plug wires?

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    Pruchased spare parts bike 1981 GS850G blowing black smoke cracked plug wires?

    So I bought a spare bike exact same bike as mine 1981 GS850G with 79,000kms wind jammer and luggage. Seized motor for 475.00

    Took it home pulled the carb, plugs and soaked bores wd-40 (two cans) let it sit for 20min, put on the center stand, put it in 5th, rocked the tire, and it broke free quite easily Cranked it over to get out the wd-40. Changed the oil and filter.

    Pile of electrical problems from sitting out side, ignition switch isn't working, bypassed with jumper for now, fuse box problems loose fuses, etc.. plug wires cracked.

    I put in the plugs and battery, carbs, fuel tank, air filter from my good bike, and ran it around the block, got it into 5th, and it 110km/hr. Its boggy from 5500rpm to 9000, under load. Smokes black from neutral rev around 5500-9000.

    I cleaned the parts bike tank with muriatic acid, cleaned and tested the fuel pet cock cleaned the carbs, and jets on the parts bike, (heavily caked and blocked with green) Put the carbs, intake and gas tank on to the parts bike. (the air filter box is from another bike? different model?

    Anyway fired up and did the exact same thing as it did with the other known good set of carbs? blows black smoke from 5500-9000. Means its rich right?

    I think its plug wires, the insulation is cracked, spark is weak, maybe its breaking down under load? Can you get separate plug wires? looks like they are glued to the coils? I could try the coils off my bike, but sorta pain in the but.

    Also its stalling when it I hit a bump, when it does that it wont start, or even crank over, if I jump the solenoid with a screw driver it cranks over with know spark. hit the fuse box and CDI box with a screw driver fires right up, and cranks over with the start button..WTF??

    summarize my questions;

    -cracked plug wires cause black smoke?
    -How to remove the wires from the coils, were to get wires?
    -What's common to spark, and starter solenoid trigger, that would loose connection?

    #2
    I can help with the coil wire question. You dig out the old wires, cut them flush with the coil body and dig away with your favourite pic or what ever. You just by any automotive 7mm bulk plug wire. When you get the old wire out you'll see a screw in the bottom that the new wire twists on to. Use some epoxy putty or something similar that is at least waterproof and will last around the wire where it contacts the coil body and you're done. And get some new caps of course as well.
    Rob
    1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
    Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

    Comment


      #3
      Oh, and for sure ****ty caps and wires could cause rich and running issues.
      Rob
      1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
      Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

      Comment


        #4
        OK, thanks blowing black smoke is rich? or oil burning? The old plugs were heavy black coated.

        The plugs I put in from my low millage 850 were clean going in two the parts bike, but came out interesting?

        the two right cylinders came out tan and clean like they went in. The two left ones came out with white soot on them?? Strange? Only rode it for 1-2hours.

        Comment


          #5
          Also the two left intake boots from head to carb are separated and leaking a bit. maybe that's causing a lean condition, making white soot

          But both exhaust pipes blow black smoke, on snap throttle neutral could that be from the intake boots and weak spark? Or piston rings?

          Comment


            #6
            I suggest you read the Newbie Mistakes and carb rebuild tutorial linked in my signature. I think both will help you.

            Oh, and before you cut off the ignition wires flush with the coil try pulling them out first. You might get lucky.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

            Comment


              #7
              If you have to go with new wires...try this first.
              I took an exacto blade and carefully cut under the old epoxy, close to the wire{s}. Then lifted section by section of the old epoxy till it was broke off all the way around each wire. Then, I took one hand and held the coil on my leg and slowly rotated in a wide circular motion, while pulling out on the lead with my other hand......"POP"...out each came, each time, on all four wires.
              Try it.

              Comment


                #8
                update installed new plug wires, three came out nice using exacto blade and twisting last one took over 45min to pick out as it broke of flush. finally got it out using a neat trick! twisted two pieces of mechanics wire together, and spread the ends 1/4" apart leaving a space fore the wire post on the coil, spun it down the hole with a drill and the stubborn piece came right out!

                anyway it runs like a total piece of **** now! hard to start, choke makes it stall, backfiring at times, and has no power, feels like its running on two cylinder's? On a plus side no more black smoke?? WTF? it was running half decant all I did was change the wires now it runs horrible?

                The exhaust is leaking out every joint, and may not be helping matters any.

                I read the carb tutorial and newbies mistakes. I didn't ungang the carbs as that's quite a pain in the rear, and I didn't have all the orings, didn't pull the choke plungers or pilot mixture screws. both my bikes have torn seals and missing foam I the intakes but none of that **** is available anymore unless you replace the hole box? So IDK what to do about it, my daily ride runs great with a few leaks here, so I'm not that concerned, for the purpose of getting the parts bike running well enough to know the engine is any good or not.

                I will order those parts and re-clean the carb and or install my known good carb and see if its any better, got a line on a set of used boots intake boots for 75.00 that should help.

                The choke lever falls down, doesn't stay up when pulled up, like my other bike?
                I have a clear fuel filter hardly any fuel is in it, but when I suck on the fuel lock off hose with the gas line off it flows like crazy, put the filter on suck on the line, hardly moves, maybe its cause the carb bowls are full already? Also getting great vacuum to the fuel lock of line when running.

                I'm recognize a few mistakes I made in a rush to go fast and not spend money on parts on a parts bike. Anyway I still don't see why it run half decant just blowing black smoke, change the plug wires and now its barely running? I did check spark at each plug after and its good blue spark, better then before the plug wires.


                Here is the only theory I have, previous owner didn't realize the plug wires were going, going gone, and leaned the mix out to get it to idle with a weak spark, but left mid range to fat, and rich.

                I go ahead and clean the carbs (don't touch mixture screws) runs decant, then replace plug wires, now its getting a great spark, and running to lean, the mid range is fixed, but idle mixture now needs to be adjusted? My theory makes sense except pulling the choke makes it stall or run worse, if its lean it should run better right?

                Just trying to make sense of it all.

                Before I waist more time and money, I suppose I could try to adjust the mixture (mine don't have aluminum plugs Canadian built bike) so its easy to adjust and see if it improves.

                Valves likely need shimming, but again it was running fine yesterday just black smoke mid range, and now its popping and acting like its lean or burnt valves.

                Thanks for all your guys help epically with the plug wires, might swap the coil and wires over to the daily ride, and see if it likes it, then I know my wires are good.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Woa woa woa

                  1. Take a step back
                  2. Make a list of things that need attention (that you know of)
                  3. Read the top 10 newbie mistakes thread, compare to your list
                  4. Do one thing at a time

                  I'm still feeling somewhat dizzy from reading your message
                  #1: 1979 GS 550 EC "Red" – Very first Bike / Overhaul thread        New here? ☛ Read the Top 10 Newbie mistakes thread
                  #2: 1978 GS 550 EC "Blue" – Can't make it a donor / "Rebuild" thread     Manuals (and much more): See Cliff's homepage here
                  #3: 2014 Moto Guzzi V7 II Racer – One needs a runner while wrenching
                  #4: 1980 Moto Guzzi V65C – Something to chill

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Ok. update I got a lot sorted out.

                    I had two plug wires on wrong swapped them ran good again.

                    Thanks for no one chiming in on adjusting the choke from falling down I melted the cable trying to adjust its tension. (my fault for posting that question in the electrical section..lol) for future reference there is a plastic adjuster nut under the rubber grommet by the choke knob.

                    I sorted out the electrical problems, someone had a alarm on the bike at one point, and T-tapped THE RED FEED wire to the ignition switch, and corroded it badly I repaired that wire, removed the alarm. Still weak voltage to the ignition switch, then I removed the fuse box, and filled the fuse holders all clean, reinstalled and everything electrically works good on the bike now!!

                    Road tested the bike and the clutch is slipping, from 5500-9000 rpm under hard throttle, still blowing black smoke at free rev on idle, but it smells like oil, and its on decal so likely valve stem seals.

                    At this point not sure how much more I want to do it before either selling it or keeping it for parts.

                    Thanks for the plug wire info, electrically my problems are solved for now

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Mostly we seal the air boxes with weatherstripping or RTV. You need new clutch springs, stick with stock Suzuki springs. Keep this engine as a spare, I think you said your other bike needs engine works, but your thread is WAY too hard to read to try to read it again. Anyway rebuild this engine if it needs it, or put it in your good bike to ride while you rebuild it.


                      Life is too short to ride an L.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Try to relax...no, it's not easy when life happens and the cycle is giving you trouble...we don't always get a chance to hop on here to answer problems.
                        There are manuals available on this site, and while they don't have everything we need info on {plug cap ohms, fuel sender ohms...} they do provide alot of other useful info. The gaps get filled via folks here...when we/they can.
                        I'm trying to go thru nearly everything on my cycle, so she's safe and sound for me and those around me when I ride....I try {sometime unsuccessfully} to do one thing at a time...make a list and whittle thru it...take your time.....relax...this is supposed to be a fun hobby {when they run right-lol}

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