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GS1000 fuel cap gasket/seal - anyone found a replacement?

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    GS1000 fuel cap gasket/seal - anyone found a replacement?

    Folks,

    I searched the forum but did not find anything definitive - has anyone found a replacement seal for the a GS1000 fuel cap? It's not just a washer, otherwise, the replacement would be easy.
    Cogito ergo sum - "I think, therefore I am"
    René Descartes

    #2
    The fuel caps are available new, ($76.00) but don't show the gasket as a separate part.

    I bought a new one, so probably have a spare one, let me check what it's like.

    If you do buy one they are very easy to rekey to make the ignition key fit.

    David.
    2018 Honda Africa Twin AS
    2013 DR 650 Grey, sold 1981 GS 650E Silver,

    1980 GS1000ST Blue & White, X2

    2012 DL650 Vstrom Foxy Orange, in storage
    1981 CT110 X2 "Postie Bikes" Gone to a New Home.
    2002 BMW 1150 GS Blue & White - Sold
    1975 BMW R90/6 Black - Sold 1984 GS1150EF Sold
    1982 BMW R100 Africa trip, Stolen - Recovered- Sold
    1977-1980 Suzuki GS550, GS1000E, GS1000S GSX750, GSX1100,s
    Hondas ST90, CR125 CB175 , CB350 CB750, NSU Quickly, Yamaha RD's 350/400,

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Kiwi Canuck View Post
      The fuel caps are available new, ($76.00) but don't show the gasket as a separate part.

      I bought a new one, so probably have a spare one, let me check what it's like.

      If you do buy one they are very easy to rekey to make the ignition key fit.

      David.
      I took my old one apart and soaked the seal in some silicone spray for awhile - the seal itself isn't cracked or dry-rotted, so, I might be ok. I'll polish the top of the cap to make it shiny again, and I'll bend the "spring" on the backside of the seal a smidge to allow it to have more contact pressure. Hopefully, I will be ok, but if not I suppose a new cap will be in my future.

      I thought of buying an aftermarket cap and stealing the seal off of it, however, they don't look the same.
      Cogito ergo sum - "I think, therefore I am"
      René Descartes

      Comment


        #4
        David,

        How do I remove the lock from the old cap to gain access to the wafers/tumblers? I just accidentally dropped my old cap and dented the snot out of it, so, I just purchased a new OEM one. :-/
        Cogito ergo sum - "I think, therefore I am"
        René Descartes

        Comment


          #6
          Originally posted by philosopheriam View Post
          David,

          How do I remove the lock from the old cap to gain access to the wafers/tumblers? I just accidentally dropped my old cap and dented the snot out of it, so, I just purchased a new OEM one. :-/
          Ouch, I did the same to one of mine hence the new one as well.
          Remove the 2 screws from the back and remove the cover, you should see a rubber O-ring around the end of the cylinder plug, remove that and with the key inserted you should be able to depress the retaining wafer and pull the cylinder plug out. (if not remove the key and push it out once you depress the retaining wafer in)

          BTW I posted a tutorial on rekeying locks, just can't find it right now though.

          Don't file the tops of the wafers, it will render the lock almost useless and the key may not stay in when you unlock the cap and it will go flying off as you remove it.

          There are 5 cuts (wafers) and only 4 depths, 1,2,3 & 4, (1 is the full height of the keyblank, 4 is the deepest cut) try and find the correct ones to match your key and then take the old ones from your old lock, watch out for the little springs, so don't lose them.

          If you ever have to file a wafer take one that is too high and file the inside with a mini file, that way it maintains the integrity of the lock.

          If you send me the old key code and the new key code I can give you the codes for each to make it easier.

          Hope this helps.

          Regards, David
          2018 Honda Africa Twin AS
          2013 DR 650 Grey, sold 1981 GS 650E Silver,

          1980 GS1000ST Blue & White, X2

          2012 DL650 Vstrom Foxy Orange, in storage
          1981 CT110 X2 "Postie Bikes" Gone to a New Home.
          2002 BMW 1150 GS Blue & White - Sold
          1975 BMW R90/6 Black - Sold 1984 GS1150EF Sold
          1982 BMW R100 Africa trip, Stolen - Recovered- Sold
          1977-1980 Suzuki GS550, GS1000E, GS1000S GSX750, GSX1100,s
          Hondas ST90, CR125 CB175 , CB350 CB750, NSU Quickly, Yamaha RD's 350/400,

          Comment


            #7
            Originally posted by Kiwi Canuck View Post
            Ouch, I did the same to one of mine hence the new one as well.
            Remove the 2 screws from the back and remove the cover, you should see a rubber O-ring around the end of the cylinder plug, remove that and with the key inserted you should be able to depress the retaining wafer and pull the cylinder plug out. (if not remove the key and push it out once you depress the retaining wafer in)

            BTW I posted a tutorial on rekeying locks, just can't find it right now though.

            Don't file the tops of the wafers, it will render the lock almost useless and the key may not stay in when you unlock the cap and it will go flying off as you remove it.

            There are 5 cuts (wafers) and only 4 depths, 1,2,3 & 4, (1 is the full height of the keyblank, 4 is the deepest cut) try and find the correct ones to match your key and then take the old ones from your old lock, watch out for the little springs, so don't lose them.

            If you ever have to file a wafer take one that is too high and file the inside with a mini file, that way it maintains the integrity of the lock.

            If you send me the old key code and the new key code I can give you the codes for each to make it easier.

            Hope this helps.

            Regards, David
            Thank you - when the new cap arrives I will go down this road. A month or so ago, I had to buy a new used ignition switch for my restoration and I was able to move the wafers around and only file one a smidge to get the lock to work perfectly...
            Cogito ergo sum - "I think, therefore I am"
            René Descartes

            Comment


              #8
              I now remember reading your write up on the ignition, nice job on removing those hardened roll pins, did you just drill them out?

              And I'm sure you'll have no trouble with the gas cap rekey, but then again you may want to rekey the ignition and seat lock to match the new keys as there's nothing like a brand new set of keys to go with a brand new fully restored bike.

              Good luck and all I can say about your rebuild is WOW, you have taken this hobby to a whole new level.

              David.
              2018 Honda Africa Twin AS
              2013 DR 650 Grey, sold 1981 GS 650E Silver,

              1980 GS1000ST Blue & White, X2

              2012 DL650 Vstrom Foxy Orange, in storage
              1981 CT110 X2 "Postie Bikes" Gone to a New Home.
              2002 BMW 1150 GS Blue & White - Sold
              1975 BMW R90/6 Black - Sold 1984 GS1150EF Sold
              1982 BMW R100 Africa trip, Stolen - Recovered- Sold
              1977-1980 Suzuki GS550, GS1000E, GS1000S GSX750, GSX1100,s
              Hondas ST90, CR125 CB175 , CB350 CB750, NSU Quickly, Yamaha RD's 350/400,

              Comment


                #9
                Originally posted by Kiwi Canuck View Post
                I now remember reading your write up on the ignition, nice job on removing those hardened roll pins, did you just drill them out?

                And I'm sure you'll have no trouble with the gas cap rekey, but then again you may want to rekey the ignition and seat lock to match the new keys as there's nothing like a brand new set of keys to go with a brand new fully restored bike.

                Good luck and all I can say about your rebuild is WOW, you have taken this hobby to a whole new level.

                David.
                Yes, I carefully drilled the roll pins and installed one size larger.

                I actually already have a set of new keys - when I bought the bike, it had no keys. So, I had a locksmith cut a set of new keys for me based on the key # which was stamped on the gas cap.

                So, in this instance, I'll opt to just rekey the gas cap.

                Thanks for the compliments, btw!
                Cogito ergo sum - "I think, therefore I am"
                René Descartes

                Comment


                  #10
                  For what it's worth. I just replaced the rubber "seal"on a 71 BMW by cleaning the old gasket/seal completely. Then I used a couple of drinking glasses to make a couple of circles on an old bicycle inner tube that I had cut to give me a flat piece of rubber. Then once I had the size correct I used Honda Bond to glue the new seal onto the old cap. Worked like a charm.

                  Comment


                    #11
                    I would not think an inner tube to be fuel resistant.
                    My bikes 79 GS1000 1085 checked and approved by stator the GSR mascot and 77 GS750 with 850 top end, GS850g, and my eldest sons 78 GS550, youngest sons GS125. Project bike 79 GS1000N

                    Comment


                      #12
                      When I was doing it my wife said it looked like it was cork that BMW originally used. Since it doesn't really live in a submerged fuel environment and what I wanted was an air seal I thought an inner tube would be just fine. Personally I've never opened a fuel cap and saw that area wet unless you turn the tank upside down.

                      Comment


                        #13
                        Originally posted by Kiwi Canuck View Post
                        The fuel caps are available new, ($76.00) but don't show the gasket as a separate part.

                        I bought a new one, so probably have a spare one, let me check what it's like.

                        If you do buy one they are very easy to rekey to make the ignition key fit.

                        David.
                        How easy? Is there a thread? I couldn't find one...
                        1979 GS850 G
                        1979 GS1000E Resto moded
                        1993 Kawasaki ZR1100


                        The most effective means of preventing tyranny is to illuminate, as far as practicable, the minds of the people at large, and more especially to give them knowledge of those facts. - Thomas Jefferson

                        Comment


                          #14
                          Originally posted by JoeNashville View Post
                          How easy? Is there a thread? I couldn't find one...
                          Joe,

                          It's been awhile since I re-keyed my new gas cap, but it wasn't difficult at all - look at some earlier posts in this thread and the procedure for removing the lock cylinder is given.

                          By rearranging the wafers in the new lock cylinder and substituting some of the old ones, I was able to get my new gas cap to work perfectly with my existing ignition key.
                          Cogito ergo sum - "I think, therefore I am"
                          René Descartes

                          Comment


                            #15
                            Buy a cheap china knock off and take the gasket off it. thats what i do all the time. throw the rest away
                            MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                            1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                            NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                            I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                            Comment

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