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First foray into fork rebuilding

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    First foray into fork rebuilding

    In my 23 years, of GS ownership and 3 GSs, ive never had to rebuild forks. Unitl Friday.
    Apologies for the lack of pictures, but they all came out blurry....

    This project was backburnered, so when I finally got the parts, I eagerly got into it.
    I removed the brake calipers, wheel, and since I was replacing the front fender, that too.
    Not knowing if / how much I would need to raise the bike to remove the lower fork parts, I put the bike on the centerstand, then slung straps over the garage rafters and hooked them on the handlebars for extra support and safety.

    With that sorted, I tried loosening the allen bolt at the bottom of the fork, but the fork bottom spun....
    I would later find out that I was beginning to go down the wrong path... I put the fender back on to keep the forks from spinning, and went back after the bolt. At this point, the bolt turned, but I could feel that something inside was spinning, not loosening.
    I consulted the factory manual, and it did not show much detail of disassembly. Clymer showed more....and the need for a special tool to hold the damper assembly.....

    For some stupid reason, I didnt think this applied to my bike. This discovery was followed by a bit of frustration and anger.
    I then recalled seeing here on occasion, homebrewed tools for this, so I gave it a go. I took a piece of 3/8 threaded rod and sandwiched a 5/8 nut between two 3/8 nuts.... too big. I next tried two 3/8 heavy nuts (11/16 wrench size). I could feel then catching a bit, but not enough. I thought it was the mismatch in shape, so I ground the points of the nuts a bit. No good. Turns out they were a bit too small, and I had no 7/16 nuts on hand to try. I ended up pounding the living she-it out of them, which made them wide enough to hold and allow me to complete disassembly.

    I did one side at a time so I had one to look at if I goofed up. The slide metals, oil lock, wave washers and seals were replaced,
    Assembly was initially a bit tricky because the oil lock and washers initially wouldn't stay put. A little fork oil was all that was needed to keep them in place. If this was done with the forks removed, it would have been a non issue. The last part, driving in the seals was a problem also. Turns out the top slide metal pieces didn't seat properly, preventing the seals from going in. Once that was discovered and addressed, everything slid in. While fighting with the seals, I put a couple of small dings in the fork tubes. Fingers crossed that they dont cause a problem. I filled them with oil and wrapped it up.

    Ive yet to take a long ride to check, but did take a couple of short ones to the hardware store. One thing I happily noticed was that I can take my hands off of the handlebars and they dont start into a shake.

    I havent been and to donthat in several years......

    It took me about 3 hours, with 45 minutes or so figuring out the "special tool"
    sigpic
    When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"

    Glen
    -85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
    -Rusty old scooter.
    Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
    https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/

    #2
    Nice work.

    In the shop I learnt to use the rattle gun (air impact wrench) on the damper bolts with the fork springs in place. The fork springs pre-load stops the damper rod from spinning. I never came across one that didn't come out this way. No need for special tools.

    We used to clamp the caliper mount of the fork in the soft jawed vice so the fork sat almost horizontal (angled slightly down so the cap end was lower). This way no oil came out with the damper bolt. Then sit them upright in a bucket to drain (grab a cup of tea) before further dismantling.
    Current:
    Z1300A5 Locomotive (swapped my Intruder for it), GS450 Cafe Project (might never finish it....), XT500 Commuter (I know - it's a Yamaha )

    Past:
    VL1500 Intruder (swapped for Z1300), ZX9R Streetfighter (lets face it - too fast....), 1984 GSX750EF, 1984 GSX1100EF (AKA GS1150)
    And a bunch of other crap Yamahas....

    Comment


      #3
      I wondered if an impact driver would do it, but I only have a little one I use for work, and no allen bits.
      sigpic
      When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"

      Glen
      -85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
      -Rusty old scooter.
      Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
      https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
      https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/

      Comment


        #4
        I did some for maybe 2 bikes. Had just as hard a time as you did.
        After making that special tool (nut on the end of threaded rod), I got it done.
        I've since found an impact wrench at a garage sale, so I'll do it that way, if I am so cursed with bad fork seals again.
        What kind of offering would Hephaestus accept?
        Last edited by Buffalo Bill; 07-25-2016, 04:48 PM.
        "Only fe' collected the old way, has any value." from His Majesty O'Keefe (1954 film)
        1982 GS1100G- road bike, body, seat and suspension modded
        1990 GSX750F-(1127cc '92 GSXR engine) track bike, much re-engineered
        1987 Honda CBR600F Hurricane; hooligan bike, restored

        Comment


          #5
          I had to look up the Greek god you mentioned... I dig that picture.
          sigpic
          When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"

          Glen
          -85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
          -Rusty old scooter.
          Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
          https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
          https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/

          Comment


            #6
            I'll bet any kind of money, he always wore a leather apron. (That makes sense to me )
            "Only fe' collected the old way, has any value." from His Majesty O'Keefe (1954 film)
            1982 GS1100G- road bike, body, seat and suspension modded
            1990 GSX750F-(1127cc '92 GSXR engine) track bike, much re-engineered
            1987 Honda CBR600F Hurricane; hooligan bike, restored

            Comment


              #7
              Just a side note, the damper rod, like everything else on your Suzuki, is metric

              Your tool should be made with metric bolt and nuts (17mm, IIRC)
              1978 GS 1000 (since new)
              1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
              1978 GS 1000 (parts)
              1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
              1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
              1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
              2007 DRz 400S
              1999 ATK 490ES
              1994 DR 350SES

              Comment


                #8
                Interesting. Shining down the tube with a light, it didnt appear to me to be a hex shape. Hopefully there wont be a next time with this bike, but if so, maybe I should do a full disassembly.....
                sigpic
                When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"

                Glen
                -85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
                -Rusty old scooter.
                Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
                https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
                https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/

                Comment


                  #9
                  Not hex, it's 12 point. 3/4" wrench sized nuts works fine.
                  1978 Gs1085 compliments of Popy Yosh, Bandit 1200 wheels and front end, VM33 Smoothbores, Yosh exhaust, braced frame, ported polished head
                  1983 Gs1100ESD, rebuild finished! Body paintwork happening winter 2017

                  I would rather trust my bike to a technician that reads the service manual than some backyardigan that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix things.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Fjbj40 View Post
                    Not hex, it's 12 point. 3/4" wrench sized nuts works fine.
                    Yep -- on most GS models, it's a 12 point, 19mm. This happens to be very, very close to 3/4", so you can use 1/2" threaded rod with standard nuts.

                    On the GK, it's a little bigger, more like 22mm. Which is close enough to 22mm. And as it turns out, you can get heavy-duty nuts with the same 1/2" thread inside that are 7/8" on the outside.

                    So my "fork stick" is a piece of 1/2" all-thread with regular 3/4" (19mm) nuts on one end and heavy-duty 7/8" (22mm) nuts on the other. The threads in the middle are covered with duct tape so as not to bung up the internal threads on fork tubes. I tack-welded the nuts in place.

                    Let me tell you, it impresses people no end when you haul out this goofy homemade contraption and stick it down into the unknown depths of their forks...
                    1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
                    2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
                    2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
                    Eat more venison.

                    Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

                    Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

                    SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

                    Get "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at https://tro.bike/podcast/ or wherever you listen to podcasts!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Nice job, congratulations. Below is a picture that might help others in preparation of fork rebuild. It shows all the parts of a 79' GS1000 as well as the "Special Tool" I made with the help from this site:

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I think im learning as much after the fact as when I actually did the work....
                        I didnt search the site, but since ive joined I haven't seen many threads on the subject, and I cant recall any, so I figured I'd share my experience. Im glad I did.
                        sigpic
                        When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"

                        Glen
                        -85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
                        -Rusty old scooter.
                        Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
                        https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
                        https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Welllll...... I noticed the other day oil on one fork.....
                          I feared the worst thinking that the ding I put in the fork tube was the cause. I put it in the back of my mind while I worked on the house, then took a look this evening. I raised the dust seal to check the snap ring, etc. All in place. I wiped the oil off, then rocked the front up and down. There was a consistent oil ring around the whole circumference of the fork. If it was from a ding in the tube, I expected to see a vertical line....

                          I popped the other dust seal and noticed that the seal lip was flush with the retaining washer... The leaker was not.

                          I pulled it back apart and confirmed that there does seem to be an up and down judging by the shape of the seal lips. I took a guess based on this observation and that the other doesn't leak, and flipped the seal, reassambled, filled the forks, then rocked the front end like crazy...... DRY! No seal orientation was noted in the factory or Haynes manual..... Another lesson from the school of hard knocks. ... at least this go went a heck of a lot faster....
                          Last edited by dorkburger; 08-08-2016, 12:35 AM.
                          sigpic
                          When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"

                          Glen
                          -85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
                          -Rusty old scooter.
                          Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
                          https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
                          https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Took a rather rapid 70ish mile ride today.... No leaks......
                            sigpic
                            When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"

                            Glen
                            -85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
                            -Rusty old scooter.
                            Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
                            https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
                            https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/

                            Comment


                              #15
                              You and I have the same ass-embly methods....
                              "Only fe' collected the old way, has any value." from His Majesty O'Keefe (1954 film)
                              1982 GS1100G- road bike, body, seat and suspension modded
                              1990 GSX750F-(1127cc '92 GSXR engine) track bike, much re-engineered
                              1987 Honda CBR600F Hurricane; hooligan bike, restored

                              Comment

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