Trailers

[Guest]

(If this isn't the proper place for this - someone holler at me)

While we still enjoy riding through the countryside, age and certain physiological realities will prevent us from rides of more than an hour or two at a time next year. This is especially true of she-who-rides-pillion. 500+ mile weekends like we've had in the past will be absolutely out of the question.

But since we're not yet ready to quit riding two-up altogether, the thought now is that we'll trailer the bike to a desired destination (Black Hills, Blue Ridge, Colorado, et al), leave the car at the hotel or some other convenient spot and just do 1/2 day or full-day excursions.

What I'm contemplating is getting a medium size (4' x 8' ?) utility trailer, where I could incorporate a rail into the floor, and use it for more than just a bike trailer.

Open to thoughts/examples from the collective.

[JTGS850GL]

If you plan on trailering any distance at hwy speeds then make sure the wheels are at least 13" rims. The ones on my trailer are 14" with hwy rated trailer tires. Mine is a Superior Elite 5x10. I chose the size based on the other things that I would like to carry on it. A jack at the tongue is a huge help as is a spare tire holder. You can pick up one of those front wheel chocks at HF and bolt it do the floor. Remove as needed. Also, a good solid hinged ramp makes loading and unloading a breeze.

[Vmass]

I always recommend and enclosed trailer with a ramp door. I have a 6 x 10 that also has a side door. It will hold two bikes, with no room to spare. Perfect for one bike and some luggage. Light and easy to pull. The bonus is it can be used for so many things, including a spare motorcycle garage. Your friends will really appreciate it too!!

[TxGSrider]

Ive got one that someone built from a small boat trailer, 15" rims, and 3 "rails". About the only things I recommend that you check is the length of your bike for the trailer rails, and the width of the rails. Mine mustve been built with dirt bikes in mind. My wifes' gs500 and Legacy 250 will fit pretty easy on the outside 2 rails (except for the rear tires which are a little too wide to fit without coaxing), but my GS1100e is too long to fit on the outside rails and must be used on the middle one (they are preety long bikes-lol) ... But because of the narrow tires on the old 1100, it fits inside the rails better at least.
This is really only a problem in that its hard to put my 1100 and either of her bikes on the trailer and have it "balanced" so the weight is more even over both tires. Mine is always in the middle and hers on one side of the other.

[nejeff]

I just had this exact conversation yesterday with a guy who is a traveling x-ray technician. He wants to take his bike as he will be gone for about a year this time out but now he has a Dodge Caravan and he doesn't have a trailer. He was looking at some homemade model that looked VERY heavy.

My opinion, get a 4 x 8 expanded steel deck trailer, with gate attached, and add some wood decking (treated) at least enough to give you a good surface for the bike to set on and put down a kickstand. You must have a minimum of 12" wheels, 13" would be good too. Some have short rail sides, some have stake pockets and you can add yourself sides to suit your. Harbor Freight wheel chock, straps, buy yourself some D-rings and attach at points that will be good for strapping.

Key to traveling is go light but solid and always bring a spare. Trailer can be used for other stuff as needed, just pull out the chock

[JTGS850GL]

I just had this exact conversation yesterday with a guy who is a traveling x-ray technician. He wants to take his bike as he will be gone for about a year this time out but now he has a Dodge Caravan and he doesn't have a trailer. He was looking at some homemade model that looked VERY heavy.

My opinion, get a 4 x 8 expanded steel deck trailer, with gate attached, and add some wood decking (treated) at least enough to give you a good surface for the bike to set on and put down a kickstand. You must have a minimum of 12" wheels, 13" would be good too. Some have short rail sides, some have stake pockets and you can add yourself sides to suit your. Harbor Freight wheel chock, straps, buy yourself some D-rings and attach at points that will be good for strapping.

Key to traveling is go light but solid and always bring a spare. Trailer can be used for other stuff as needed, just pull out the chock

I'd skip the expanded steel decking and go with one that was designed for a wood floor. Saves weight, The floor will match the ramp with no step. I wouldn't go with 12" wheels if you plan on doing extended hwy driving.

Oh, and a word of caution... You will suddenly find you have a whole slew of new friends that would like to borrow your new trailer.

[850GT_Rider]

Good suggestions, all. Lots of differing opinions on what's "right". Personal preferences end up dictating the final choice.

Posts 5 & 6 is kinda what I was thinking. Certainly understand the benefit of larger tires, although there's a lot of snowmobile trailers out there with smaller ones, due to the large deck over them. But yeah - the smaller the tire, the more strain on the wheel bearings.

[Steve]

The topic of "length" was mentioned. Check the overall length of your bike. If you have a luggage rack, you might not fit on an 8' trailer with a raised tailgate.

Speaking of tailgates, see if you can find one that is hinged in the middle. Even though the gate is made of expanded metal mesh, air has a hard time getting through it at anything above in-town speeds. Out on the road, it flows virtually NO air through it, it might as well be a solid piece. That REALLY sucks on gas mileage. If you have a folding tailgate, its height is cut in half, and so is the wind resistance. Also be sure to check the angle where the ramp (tailgate) meets the deck. If the ramp is short, the angle will be steeper and the bike might high-center. You can raise the tongue to help, or you can put blocks under the end of the ramp.

Make sure there are at least SIX tie-down points on the trailer that are spaced considerably wider than the bike, for good triangulation.

.

[850GT_Rider]

Steve - For all practical purposes, mine's the same length as your "K'd" 850. Same machine, similar accoutrements.

Good advice on the folding tailgate. Something more to consider. Thanks

[rustybronco]

5' X 8' with a 3500# axle. Buy used or build it.

Johnson salvage has deals on complete axles. 1- 1/2" X 3/16" angle iron will work well for the frame 2" X 4" square tubing for the hitch framework. Make the sides 20" tall and use T&G plywood for the floor.

http://www.trailerrvparts.com/

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d44/rustybronco/IMG_20160402_152147.jpg

[Steve]

I currently use a 5x10 trailer. For one bike, it's rather spacious. Two bikes would have to be the right two in order to fit on there together.

This is my wife's 850L and Dogma's 1000G and some other "stuff" on the trailer:


.

[Baatfam]

6X12 enclosed here. Originally bought it for racing, but still use it all the time. One advantage of the enclosed type, is I can use it for storage, like a shed with wheels, during the winter.

[rustybronco]

What is that overgrown appendage on the back of your trailer Steve? My lord, 12" sides and a six foot tall gate.

[Wallowgreen]

I have a 5x8 aluminium open utility trailer with wooden floor and ramp at the back. I have 4 tie down points, two at the front, two at the back but I use those in combination with a wheel chock. Steve is correct, you need to be careful when loading a bike over the pivot point of the rear ramp, the bike can ground and bring tears to your eyes. Short length of 2x4 solved that for me, just have to place it under the center of the ramp between it and the road. He's also correct when he says the gas mileage will suck with the rear ramp, one that folds in half is great but expensive (at least around here). Not sure what you're going to be using to pull with but when I had an Expedition I would load the bike first then take the ramp off completely and put that in the back of the car flat on the floor, could load all our clobber on top of it and there was no wind resistance.

With the wheel chock I can load any of my bikes on my own, drive it up the ramp onto the chock and it stays upright when you get off so you can tie it down. The chock I have has tie down points on it also so I use a short strap to tie the front wheel to the chock (chock is bolted into the trailer through the floor).

I've had a 1100GL and an 850G in my trailer down to the Mountain States rally one year, no problem.

Couple of things I learnt through experience which you may already know but I'll throw them out there anyway...

- Make sure the ends of the straps are secured. Many times I thought I had the extra length of strap tied down firm only to find it flapping in the 80mph wind on the freeway.
- I tie to points on the bike that are not sprung when possible. Swing arm at the rear is great. Nothing undoes what you think are really tight tie downs quicker than a bouncing bike.
- Get a canyon dancer. They allow you to tie down via the handle bars and are a great investment (cost around $20 IIRC). I take the strap over the top of the side rail and back to the tie down to avoid the bouncing problem.
- Use good quality tie downs, even the $15 for 4 from Home Depot are no match for the 2" wide webbing type at $20 (on sale) from Costco
- Filling the bike with gas prior to loading is not smart

We do exactly what you're contemplating, it's a great way to enjoy the best of both worlds. Good luck!

[ShadowFocus603]

http://www.harborfreight.com/1720-lb-capacity-48-in-x-96-in-super-duty-folding-trailer-62647.html

I built my trailer with the trailer in the link above. Got it on sale for $329 plus the $29.99 for the wheel chock and the $40ish for the 3/4 ply for the deck. Built it up in less than 4 hours and it has seen just about 1k miles since built. Hauled everything from bikes (long distance, not running sales are so fun!) to furniture to god knows what else. I just have to regularly check the grease in the hubs and she is good to go. She is due for a new sheet of ply for the deck next spring and the paint could use some freshening as it's faded but still a rock solid purchase I would make again.