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    #31
    I had my new bike with a no crank no start, went through everything and couldn't figure out the problem so I dug into the killswitch. To find out it's perfectly fine.
    Then I went here and looked at the starter button doesn't work(just like mine), then somone mentions the clutch switch could lead to a no start even with the clutch held in.
    I thought: why not. Went to the bike again and took the sidestand in, and the bike came back again with crank start from the button.

    Many thanks for this helpful site. Now I'm most likely gonna do a quick carb clean without touching anything, it's brown stuff in the bowls.

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      #32
      Bortasqu
      You’re replying to a 3 year old dead thread. Glad you think you figured out your no start issue. You should know that no GS came from the factory with a side-stand-down kill switch. You’ve got the right hand run/off red switch, and the clutch switch. That’s it (besides the ignition key).

      Also, I see mentioned in this thread about the bike needing to be in neutral to start. It doesn’t. Defeating, or bypassing the clutch switch is easy and a popular mod ( I won’t do it). If that has been done, then you would absolutely want the bike In neutral so it doesn’t lurch forward when you press the Start button.

      Please put your bike year and model in your signature so people know what you’re talking about. And there is no “good” quick carb clean. Without touching anything?
      Last edited by Rich82GS750TZ; 06-27-2020, 01:07 PM.
      Rich
      1982 GS 750TZ
      2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

      BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
      Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

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        #33
        If I may insert myself here. My 11EZ cranked 2 or 3 times, last time pretty slowly. I never considered the clutch lockout. I thought of only the starter or relay. Does it sound like I was overlooking something? (Suzi is safe in the basement garage. She stayed home while I was out destroying the Sporty and my foot. )
        1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

        2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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          #34
          I seem to recall she still will "click," but no more.
          1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

          2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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            #35
            Funny to see this thread where OP had grounded the B/W to the "negative" post of the solenoid LOL.

            This is the reason in part I always want all 6 voltages from the Quick Test in order to do a diagnosis. You NEVER really knoe what the OP will actually be doing so getting 6 numbers that have an explaination means they are much more likely to be doing the measurements correctly.

            There is almost no way to know this with only one measurement.

            This is why it is also most important to post pictures about what you are doing else nobody would have ever figured out what you were doing wrong.

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