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77 gs550 overcharging?

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    #31
    The loop through the light switch should be abandoned permanently. It was only relevant for the old shunt R/R to disable a leg of the stator when the light was turned off to prevent overcharging. Not necessary any more. The output of the R/R should only be connected to the original connection, not both that and the battery. I have had good luck with AGM batteries.
    Last edited by OldVet66; 06-16-2017, 10:16 PM.
    '78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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      #32
      Gel batteries do very well for me; I'm slowly converting every bike over to them. I haven't had the need for AGM ones yet.
      #1: 1979 GS 550 EC "Red" – Very first Bike / Overhaul thread        New here? ☛ Read the Top 10 Newbie mistakes thread
      #2: 1978 GS 550 EC "Blue" – Can't make it a donor / "Rebuild" thread     Manuals (and much more): See Cliff's homepage here
      #3: 2014 Moto Guzzi V7 II Racer – One needs a runner while wrenching
      #4: 1980 Moto Guzzi V65C – Something to chill

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        #33
        Sorry I wasent very clear when I said I rewired the bike. There was no wiring harness when I got the bike and all the used ones I found were pretty chopped up and I couldent trust them, so I wired the bike from scratch using the original wiring diagram for my my model gs. The original connections were not there, I had to make them. Here's the diagram I used. IMG_0232.jpgThe only difference is that I eliminated the loop and ran the three legs directly to the r/r.

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          #34
          Good Job. It sounded like you were saying you made a R/R connection directly to the battery in addition to your harness "I rewired the output of the regulator to both the battery and the main power to the switch". I didn't know you rewired according to the schematic.
          '78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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            #35
            Okay so doing a little internet surfing on battery's lead me to a new option. I found a lithium ion 8cell battery from ballistic that looked pretty sweet, my question is this. When they are discharged to far don't they catch on fire? I seem to remember back in my rc car days some lithium packs lighting on fire when discharged to far...it's been a little while though. Anyways anyone on here with experience on these battery's?

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              #36
              Some have but I wouldn't want to be sitting on top of one with a fuel tank. There are too many other options that have a lot more cranking power. If weight is a prime concern, you started with the wrong bike in the first place. Both AGM and GEL batteries can be mounted in any position. Personally I believe AGM is a little tougher for the application.
              '78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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                #37
                Fair enough, I'm not really concerned about weight at this point. I'm really just concerned with the reliability of the bike now. I've got it looking how I want but it's stranded me a few times and being my first bike it's kind of killing the enjoyment of the whole experience.

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                  #38
                  Next question and maybe a dumb one but how important are battery brands nowadays? Is a 100 dollar agm battery that much better than a 50 dollar one?

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by Hell or high water View Post
                    Next question and maybe a dumb one but how important are battery brands nowadays? Is a 100 dollar agm battery that much better than a 50 dollar one?
                    Not much. There aren't that many battery factories; globally speaking, and your 50$ battery could've very well come from the same factory as the 100$ one. Of course, there are quite a bit of other factors in play (for example, how long the battery was in storage before it got into your hands, etc. etc.), so don't disregard brands completely - but don't let it be the sole deciding factor as well.

                    IMO, the construction type (Wet, Gel, AGM) of the battery is more important.
                    #1: 1979 GS 550 EC "Red" – Very first Bike / Overhaul thread        New here? ☛ Read the Top 10 Newbie mistakes thread
                    #2: 1978 GS 550 EC "Blue" – Can't make it a donor / "Rebuild" thread     Manuals (and much more): See Cliff's homepage here
                    #3: 2014 Moto Guzzi V7 II Racer – One needs a runner while wrenching
                    #4: 1980 Moto Guzzi V65C – Something to chill

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                      #40
                      So here's the old stator. Other than the wires being hard after they enter the case I dident notice anything wrong with it. Let me know if you guys see anything.IMG_0690.jpg

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                        #41
                        IMG_0691.jpgHere's another shot

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                          #42
                          IMG_0692.jpgThe side view looked like it made contact with the rotor???

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by Hell or high water View Post
                            So here's the old stator. Other than the wires being hard after they enter the case I dident notice anything wrong with it. Let me know if you guys see anything.[ATTACH=CONFIG]51716[/ATTACH]
                            I scanned the 40 posts. I don't see where you ever actually measured and diagnosed the stator was bad. It is not easy to test except on a running bike. I don't see anything obvious that has burned. If you diagnosed it as bad it should be replaced.
                            Do you plan to change it or put it back in?

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                              #44
                              I tested it when the bike was running and it tested fine from what I could tell. It had 60 vac from leg to leg on the generator output. The recharging voltage was all over the place from low 13 to low 14 at idle and was 14.7 to 16 at 4000 rpm. It was hard to get a number on it. From the general consensus everyone has been telling me that because the generators the only thing ahead of the r/r, it could be the only thing to burn them up consistently. I have been told that when the bike warms up or at higher rpm that that could be when the insulation is failing. I'm not sure about all that but it being ahead of the r/r makes sense I guess. What's your thoughts?

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                                #45
                                Also no shorts to ground I checked that as well

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