Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Carb help please

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Carb help please

    I bought a 78 gs750 and I've done the carb rebuild on it, cleaned everything with an ultrasonic cleaner and carb cleaner, new ignition coils, new plugs, new manifold gaskets, running pods (Stock filter and box where toast),upgraded my main jets from 102.5 to 115, and raised the needle one notch. When I got the bike it was difficult to start but now it starts reasonably well and idles well too. It doesnt need choke to run, when I throttle the bike it jumps to 2500rpm well and then totally dies. I've torn the carbs out at least 1 dozen times and checked everything even set the floats to factory height. Any suggestions on what I can do next would be greatly appreciated.

    BTW- I love the restoration process thus far and the resources on this site.

    Thanks,
    Justin

    #2
    Have you changed the o-rings at cylinder head/carb bootinterface? part #17 in this diagram?

    Shop our large selection of Suzuki OEM parts, original equipment manufacturer parts and more online or call at 386-740-2452
    1981 gs650L

    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

    Comment


      #3
      Have you adjusted the valves?

      When you cleaned the carbs, did you replace/check O-rings?

      If you haven't seen this yet, cylcleorings.com is the go to place for this.
      1980/1981 GS450 - GS500 Cylinder + Piston Swap - "De-L'ed", custom seat, CB350 bits, 18" rear, etc.
      1977 GS550
      1977 GS750 - Cross country trip thread

      Comment


        #4
        Yes I've replaced all rings and gaskets from the engine back. I haven't done anything with the valves yet though. Would that cause the bike to fall flat like that?

        Comment


          #5
          The valve clearances get tighter over time. Eventually they can get so tight, they won't fully close amymore. Not sure how this could cause your issues, but it's a must do item.

          I'd also suggest a proper vacuum sync of the carbs.
          Jordan

          1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
          2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
          1973 BMW R75/5

          Comment


            #6
            You're right, eventually the valves will have to be addressed and I'm currently making my own version of a carb balancer so I'll see what that can tell me. Have you ever use a colortuner by chance?

            Comment


              #7
              You have bumped up the main jets 5 sizes. What led you to that decision? Seems kind of drastic.

              Where are the pilot fuel and pilot air screws set? The pilot fuel should be about 1 turn open and the pilot air roughly double that.

              Did you get high quality pods like K&N's or are you using the cheap generic pods like Emgo's?
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment


                #8
                I bumped it up based off of previously viewed posts (too much?). before the new jets it wouldn't start easily and would only run on full choke. I do not have K&N pods nor emgos but I'd guess they're not much different then the emgos as per the recommendation of a friend thats done several cafe racer builds. My pilot fuels are at 1.5 turns and pilot airs at 1. Thanks again for the assistance.

                Comment


                  #9
                  With the fuel screws at 1.5 and the air screws at 1, the pilot fuel mixture is WAY too rich. If your valves are tight (the usual situation), the intake valve closes while the piston is coming up, which lets some air out. The only place for it to go is back through the carb. It picks up a bit more fuel, because the carbs don't really care which way the air flows through, they are going to add fuel. On that cylinder's next intake cycle, the valve opens, the piston goes down and, you guessed it, you get a THIRD dose of fuel in the mixture.

                  Switch your numbers around for a starting point, set the FUEL screws to 1 turn, the AIR screws to 1.5, then get the valves adjusted.

                  K&N pods are generally accepted as the best, but they ARE expensive. APE pods are just about the same, they just don't have the K&N logo, but are about half the cost. EMGO pods are cheap "throw-away" pods. They are hard to tune for because their airflow characteristics keep changing. Not sure what you have, but it might be worth looking into at least the APE pods.

                  .
                  sigpic
                  mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                  hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                  #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                  #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                  Family Portrait
                  Siblings and Spouses
                  Mom's first ride
                  Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                  (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Great info thanks. Should I reinstall the factory main jets as well and drop my needle back down a notch? I do get a lot of backfires through carbs and exhaust so multiple doses of fuel would explain that.

                    I'll need new shims for the valve adjustment correct?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Stock jets won't work, but 5 steps may be too much. It's hard to say right now. I would have suggested 3 steps on the mains and then try. You can always tape up the outside of the pods to further richen the mixture so you can figure out which way to go. With the mains at 5 steps your next step to try, after doing the valves like Steve says, is to remove the pods completely if the bike doesn't run better.
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Ok. So I'll get 110 mains and work on the valves in the mean time until they come. What would you suggest for the throttle needle?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I'd leave it where you are. You are going to need a little extra richness just off idle since the pilot jets are still stock.

                          BTW, getting some of those APE pods was a solid suggestion too...
                          Ed

                          To measure is to know.

                          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Thank you. I'll let you know what happens.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              There are a few here with '78 750's with K&N pods. I run stock pilot 15 and main jet at 117.5, e-clip at position 4.
                              Fuel screw 1 full turn out, air at 1.5 ish, with highest idle. Syncing the carbs will make a huge difference so after you've adjusted the valves borrow a Morgan Carbtune and git er done!
                              -Mal

                              "The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." - B. Banzai
                              ___________

                              78 GS750E

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X