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Removing starter, GS400EZ

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    #61
    Well, on my bikes, the headlight switch still existed, but was blocked from moving at the factory. Yours being newer is going to want a toggle switch . You can insert wiring in series right at the headlamp's gound wire without cutting things if you are handy with crimp connectors but consulting your wiring diagram might show other spots.
    The switch gives me comfort in that I have a few more tries in the tiny battery but needs culturing a new habit to turn the headlight back on when riding! I think it definitely helps starting too and is less of a punch to the battery and it's connections too.

    That's right-you mentioned the chipped magnets (now I recall) but this doesn't mean that's your issue.Oh, it might be, but Someone previous could have done this dropping the motor while assembling it at some point too.. etc etc. a few chips won't affect the present motor unless you can see that the armature is indeed hitting the magnets or that the bits aren't still in there!

    I did mention to try a car battery. Even where your MC battery is brand new, if using a car battery helps, it indicates that the problem is indeed too much current wanted for whatever reason...it gives a useful place to troubleshoot from, I think. For instance, maybe you have an extra set of running lights we in the gallery can't see....PS I do! but they are leds..
    Last edited by Gorminrider; 03-13-2018, 12:51 PM.

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      #62
      This off the wall but what kind of oil do you use in Western Arizona? I'm thinking temperature changes might be pretty extreme and a good multi-grade synthetic would be best?

      If you are (too) old school and running straight weight SAE40 or something, well, that can't be good on a chilly morning...like churning molasses.

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        #63
        It was only one of the three magnets located on the gear end of starter. Yes, I removed the pieces.

        Could very well be worn armature shaft banging against the magnets in the case. I keep firing it up with very little cranking.

        Sits all night it barely turns over or stops. Hit the button again and it turns over cranking very slow. Rump-a-rump.

        I suspect a high current draw and replacing the starter is in order.

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          #64
          Originally posted by Gorminrider View Post
          This off the wall but what kind of oil do you use in Western Arizona? I'm thinking temperature changes might be pretty extreme and a good multi-grade synthetic would be best?

          If you are (too) old school and running straight weight SAE40 or something, well, that can't be good on a chilly morning...like churning molasses.
          Valvoline 10/40 motorcycle oil.

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            #65
            Of course, there's nothing like new....and even 2nd hand from ebay -It seems to me all my Suzuki starter motors have been "pretty good" so you should have a good chance getting a decent one from there. And, you sure know some questions to ask of seller.

            Valvoline 10/40 motorcycle oi
            l.Yes I have a 10w40 one from Castrol in the 400s with very good result.
            Last edited by Gorminrider; 03-13-2018, 01:12 PM.

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              #66
              Well ok then! Did a search on fleabay, found the correct starter. Crosschecked the Denso part number. Correct.

              Discounted $35, free ship. $51.07 total. One year warranty.

              Done deal, will see how this works.

              Thanks everyone.

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                #67
                Another "headlight mod" that is relatively easy to do:

                Find the wire that actually feeds the headlight (before the beam selector switch). Either cut the wire or pull that one wire out of a connector, run those two wires to a relay. You will need a variation of the standard "Bosch-type" relay that has FIVE pins. The pin in the center MUST be 87a. Some relays have two pins that are both 87, some have one 87 and an 87a, that is the one you want. Connect the headlight wires you cut to pins 30 and 87a. Connect pin 85 to the output of the starter solenoid (the large wire that goes to the starter), connect pin 86 to a ground.

                The connection from pin 30 to 87a is Normally Closed (NC), which means it is that way normally. When you apply power across 85 and 86, the mechanism will connect 30 to 87, which turns 87a OFF. By doing this, when you press your starter button, all the battery current goes to the starter and coils, none through the headlight. As soon as you release the starter button, the light comes back ON.

                .
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                  #68
                  Thanks Steve.

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                    #69
                    Update: Boy howdy she fires up now! I’ll pass it on, don’t bother with attempting to replace brushes and seals. I ordered a starter off of fleabay (on sale) for the same or less money then the parts. Turns over great with no noise just like new.

                    Happy camper here. Jeeze, a lot of work when I could of just replaced the whole thing.
                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by Guest; 03-17-2018, 08:13 PM. Reason: Picture

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