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Do you rebuild your GS cam chain tensioner?

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    Do you rebuild your GS cam chain tensioner?

    I have always replaced the cam chain tensioner when needed,anyone 'been there done that'? I need one now for my 82' GS450T

    #2
    There is a good tutorial on Basscliff's site. I've used it to rebuild mine. It's not too difficult.

    1983 GS750ED-Horsetraded for the Ironhead
    1981 HD XLH

    Drew's 850 L Restoration

    Drew's 83 750E Project

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      #3
      Yep, rebuilt mine too following that tutorial. Not hard at all and going on two years now without any oil leaks from it.
      Roger

      Current rides
      1983 GS 850G
      2003 FJR 1300A
      Gone but not forgotten 1985 Rebel 250, 1991 XT225, 2004 KLR650, 1981 GS850G, 1982 GS1100GL, 2002 DL1000, 2005 KLR650, 2003 KLX400

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        #4
        Do you have a link to the online tutorial ?

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          #5
          Here's the one I used.

          Roger

          Current rides
          1983 GS 850G
          2003 FJR 1300A
          Gone but not forgotten 1985 Rebel 250, 1991 XT225, 2004 KLR650, 1981 GS850G, 1982 GS1100GL, 2002 DL1000, 2005 KLR650, 2003 KLX400

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            #6
            Ok
            I've ordered the o-rings and seal plus new spring. I may rebuild the one replacement from a GS550E from eBay that I installed when I first bought the bike back in Detroit,Mi.,I noticed the original one was leaking oil (12,000 miles)before I ever started it up so decided at the time to get another one,now after 3000+ miles that one doesn't have much tension(always sounded loose while riding back West with it)plus leaking oil.I will install the original while waiting for the parts from Babbitt's online,then rebuild the replacement.
            Do they usually just lose spring tension or possibly get crudded-up with gunk and jamb? Hopefully the pushrod is still useable.
            Last edited by grcamna2; 11-23-2018, 09:16 PM.

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              #7
              Awesome!

              This is a rebuild I need to do.


              Ed
              GS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
              GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
              GSX-R750Y (Sold)

              my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)
              Originally posted by GSXR7ED
              Forums are pretty much unrecognizable conversations; simply because it's a smorgasbord of feedback...from people we don't know. It's not too difficult to ignore the things that need to be bypassed.

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                #8
                Originally posted by grcamna2 View Post
                Ok
                I've ordered the o-rings and seal plus new spring. I may rebuild the one replacement from a GS550E from eBay that I installed when I first bought the bike back in Detroit,Mi.,I noticed the original one was leaking oil (12,000 miles)before I ever started it up so decided at the time to get another one,now after 3000+ miles that one doesn't have much tension(always sounded loose while riding back West with it)plus leaking oil.I will install the original while waiting for the parts from Babbitt's online,then rebuild the replacement.
                Do they usually just lose spring tension or possibly get crudded-up with gunk and jamb? Hopefully the pushrod is still useable.
                The internal spring on the one I rebuilt was still pretty close to the length of the new one but I went ahead and replaced it anyway. As noted in the tutorial that Bwringer wrote up, the sloped area of the pushrod had a groove in it from the ball bearing. Filed it down and reassembled it. I think in there he also suggests operating the tensioner while it's off the bike to get an idea how it works. If you do this, you'll see at that point if gunk has, or could affected the operation.
                Roger

                Current rides
                1983 GS 850G
                2003 FJR 1300A
                Gone but not forgotten 1985 Rebel 250, 1991 XT225, 2004 KLR650, 1981 GS850G, 1982 GS1100GL, 2002 DL1000, 2005 KLR650, 2003 KLX400

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                  #9
                  I did not have a groove in the ramp of my tensioner rod, it was an outright divot. Deep enough to keep the rod in place. Filed it smooth, put it back in service, it's working great.

                  Do I rebuild the tensnioner? Definitely. Every 20 or 30 years, it simply needs to be done. I assume that it has not ever been done on any bike I have gotten, so I just order the parts and do it.

                  The usual "lack of tension" is improper installation.
                  The manual says to retract the rod fully, lock it in place. Install the tensioner in the cylinder block. Loosen the setscrew to allow the rod to extend. Turn the setscrew until it stops, back it out 1/4 to 1/2 turn, use the lock nut to lock it in place. Too many times, I have found that the installer did not read the bolded text. The tensioner was installed and locked in place. The set screw needs to be released from the rod to allow the rod to move and do its job.

                  .
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                    #10
                    Thanks for the excellent feedback Steve,I'll follow what you said.

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                      #11
                      Yep, make sure you release the pushrod like Steve said. That's the biggest mistake I find, too, on probably half the tensioners I encounter in the wild. I don't know why so many feel such a strong urge to tighten a screw on something they don't understand.


                      I first created and posted these cam chain tensioner rebuild instructions in October 2004, with only a few minor detail updates since then. So far, the instructions seem to have worked for just about everyone. (But of course, suggestions for making things clearer are welcome...)

                      I usually keep a set or two of the seals and o-rings "in stock"; they're cheap and have come in handy more than once. Maybe next time I'll take a video and put it on Youtube.
                      1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
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