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torque spec/tips on valve gasket and some extra questions

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    torque spec/tips on valve gasket and some extra questions

    what are the torque specs ( or recommended spec by you) for the breather valve gasket, the valve cover gasket, and the oil pan gasket. with getting the old gasket off the oil-pan, id say a knife is impractical, is there a good method to not damage the metal from your pan?
    Ian

    1982 GS650GLZ
    1982 XS650

    #2
    M6 x 1.0 bolts in aluminum are specified at 6.0 - 7.5 lb.-ft. of torque.

    .
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    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
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    Comment


      #3


      works wonders for removing gasket material with a die grinder.
      The GS toys:
      79 GS1000L 1st bike sold many moons ago...
      78 GS550
      81 GS650G The son's
      82 GS650GL parts bike
      85 GS700ES in progress
      85 gs700E parts bike
      82 GS1000GL in pieces
      80 GS1100L in progress

      Comment


        #4
        If you're going to use a torque wrench to put your valve cover back on, you're going to want one calibrated in in-lb (or lb-in depending on who you ask). Multiply the ft-lb torque spec from your service manual (you have one, right?) x 12 to get in-lb.

        The advice I was given when I did my first valve clearance on my bike was that it takes less force than you would think, it's a "feel" thing. Well, having never done it before, I don't have a "feel" for it. So I bought and used an in-lb torque wrench for @$50 on amazon. I still tightened the darn thing too much, twice, and ruined 2 gaskets. At @$40 a gasket, those were kind of expensive mistakes on my part.
        Rich
        1982 GS 750TZ
        2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

        BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
        Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Rich82GS750TZ View Post
          The advice I was given when I did my first valve clearance on my bike was that it takes less force than you would think, it's a "feel" thing. Well, having never done it before, I don't have a "feel" for it. So I bought and used an in-lb torque wrench for @$50 on amazon. I still tightened the darn thing too much, twice, and ruined 2 gaskets. At @$40 a gasket, those were kind of expensive mistakes on my part.
          Be thankful you only ruined the gaskets ... i think it is a "feel" thing.
          The tired threads in the aluminium cannot take what they used to,
          so tightening to spec will ruin threads every so often.
          Increasing problems is trying to be nice to the bike by putting a dab of
          lubricant on the bolts.
          These were meant to be installed dry.
          (i like lubricant on them, must be from working on 2-strokes)

          The torque specs take into account the friction the mating thread surfaces
          create and lubricant reduces that friction by a huge amount like 30% or so.
          So torqueing a lubricated bolt with correct torque into a tired thread
          will result in a stripped hole .... many times.

          I always run a tap through these to clean up the threads.
          And then a bolt, to try and feel the thread for hickups or play.
          If i cannot easily run the bolt in with 2 fingers all the way, usually
          that means it's time to break out the helicoils.
          This reduces, not eliminates, the number of stripped threads.

          Remember, the only thing all those bolts have to do is keep the parts
          from falling off the bike and put just enough pressure on the gasket
          to stop leaks.
          Rijk

          Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread

          CV Carb rebuild tutorial
          VM Carb rebuild tutorial
          Bikecliff's website
          The Stator Papers

          "The thing about freedom - it's never free"

          Comment


            #6
            +1 on low-end torque specs for the valve cover
            1983 GS 1100 ESD

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Rijko View Post
              Increasing problems is trying to be nice to the bike by putting a dab of
              lubricant on the bolts.
              I didn't lube the bolts when I installed the cover, but I did follow a bunch of peoples advise and greased the gasket (for easy removal and possible re-use next valve adjustment). I don't think that helped me. The third time, the time that I didn't squish and tear the gasket, I put it on dry (I believe it was Steve that suggested that, if memory serves.) I plan on sticking to regular valve adjustment intervals (don't remember off the top of my head what that is) so time/miles will tell if the gasket sticks and breaks or comes off clean. Either way, I don't think I would trust re-using it.
              Rich
              1982 GS 750TZ
              2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

              BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
              Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Rich82GS750TZ View Post
                I didn't lube the bolts when I installed the cover, but I did follow a bunch of peoples advise and greased the gasket (for easy removal and possible re-use next valve adjustment). I don't think that helped me. The third time, the time that I didn't squish and tear the gasket, I put it on dry (I believe it was Steve that suggested that, if memory serves.) I plan on sticking to regular valve adjustment intervals (don't remember off the top of my head what that is) so time/miles will tell if the gasket sticks and breaks or comes off clean. Either way, I don't think I would trust re-using it.
                yeah .. those come up with arguments about cost, re-use and lots of good
                experiences with the grease method.
                I have nothing against that, but i install them dry with monotonous success
                As for cost .. for the price of a new fresh valve cover gasket i like to
                use a new one and reduce the chance of having to pull the cover and replace
                if it fails... and i'm Dutch
                Rijk

                Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread

                CV Carb rebuild tutorial
                VM Carb rebuild tutorial
                Bikecliff's website
                The Stator Papers

                "The thing about freedom - it's never free"

                Comment


                  #9
                  “The tired threads in the aluminium cannot take what they used to,
                  so tightening to spec will ruin threads every so often.”

                  This happened to me this valve check time...fortunately a longer bolt grabbed some new aluminum
                  1981 gs650L

                  "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by tom203 View Post
                    “The tired threads in the aluminium cannot take what they used to,
                    so tightening to spec will ruin threads every so often.”

                    This happened to me this valve check time...fortunately a longer bolt grabbed some new aluminum
                    You will probably strip that thread next time.

                    This is what i fondly think of as yin/yang and the "PO rant origin".
                    Our collective experience tells/learns us to accept some practices
                    Suzuki and a lot of mechanics would frown on.

                    I keep a log on all my bikes and have done the same thing,
                    but will record in the log that i will need to place a helicoil next time.

                    Lazy maybe, but if it holds without leaking it's good enough sometimes
                    and it saves a lot of time.
                    Should i sell the bike (the one in my avatar - will NOT ever sell it if not
                    absolutely necessary), the next owner will probably rant about me
                    because he strips the thread immediately.

                    oh well, come on and flame me for not doing it right every time
                    I accept and respect that, it's just sometimes i do not have or want to spend the time.

                    Last time that happened to me, i was preparing the bike for a trip to the UK
                    the next day. "everything" worked against me and the last bolt i
                    tightened on that *(&*&^% cam cover stripped.
                    A longer bolt grabbed enough flesh to feel tight enough and it is still ok.
                    At 3 AM, having to leave at 9, i just had enough. Good enough is good enough.

                    BTW a guy like Steve who does this professionally and *really* knows his stuff
                    is someone to listen to.
                    Rijk

                    Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread

                    CV Carb rebuild tutorial
                    VM Carb rebuild tutorial
                    Bikecliff's website
                    The Stator Papers

                    "The thing about freedom - it's never free"

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Rijko View Post
                      ....BTW a guy like Steve who does this professionally and *really* knows his stuff
                      is someone to listen to.
                      Don’t I know it! If not for him and a few other very helpful gentlemen on this forum, I probably would have given up on my bike long ago.
                      Rich
                      1982 GS 750TZ
                      2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

                      BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
                      Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

                      Comment


                        #12
                        “You will probably strip that thread next time.”

                        yes, I made a note to check all before reinstalling cover next time....if there is a next time for me with this coronavirus stuff! I like to leave the next guy no surprises!
                        1981 gs650L

                        "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                        Comment


                          #13
                          The universal rule for stripping threads is as follows:-

                          Not using the bike for weeks..... no threads will strip
                          Using the bike come whatever may in the morning.... stupid thread will strip
                          Part that needs to stay put or stay sealed.......will definitely strip but only if you don't have time to fix it
                          When you forget something and need to strip the offending part off and re-do the job...…guaranteed to strip
                          1978 GS750(E) I think

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Hello, all...if I need to start a different thread, let me know. In cranking up my ‘80 GS1100L a couple of weeks ago, in prep for getting her ready to sell, after running up the street and back, I noticed some oil leaking from the valve cover gasket, right in the center. So, I’ve removed everything, and cleaning the old gasket and sealant off the valve cover (and especially) the engine was a pain. So...just want to be sure...am I to coat the gasket on both sides with sealant (of course I will the half moons; I have used the ThreeBond liquid gasket), or install dry (except for the half moons), or other suggestions? Just want to make sure I do it right.

                            PS ..and no blue thread lock on the cover bolts, correct?
                            Steedracer
                            Brentwood, TN

                            1980 GS1100LT......
                            1974 Yamaha DT360 Enduro
                            1975 Kawasaki KE125
                            1973 Kawasaki G4TR
                            1967 Honda Cub 50

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Steedracer View Post
                              Hello, all...if I need to start a different thread, let me know. In cranking up my ‘80 GS1100L a couple of weeks ago, in prep for getting her ready to sell, after running up the street and back, I noticed some oil leaking from the valve cover gasket, right in the center. So, I’ve removed everything, and cleaning the old gasket and sealant off the valve cover (and especially) the engine was a pain. So...just want to be sure...am I to coat the gasket on both sides with sealant (of course I will the half moons; I have used the ThreeBond liquid gasket), or install dry (except for the half moons), or other suggestions? Just want to make sure I do it right.

                              PS ..and no blue thread lock on the cover bolts, correct?
                              I've hijacked my share of threads here and there, but generally speaking it's good form to start your own thread that has to do with you're particular issue. That said, people are fairly loose around here and may answer your question/s regardless.

                              P.S. I want your bike
                              Ryan

                              1979 GS850G - currently undergoing a major overhaul
                              1986 GSX-R750 - I'm figuring it out

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