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    getting a stuck shim out

    clearance for the shim is .04, i can get it out of the cup holding it, but it will not budge when trying to pull it out from inbetween. any tricks for it? thinking of finding a way to push it out instead of pull but the back wont raise up at all once i get it out the cup from the topside.
    Ian

    1982 GS650GLZ
    1982 XS650

    #2
    Originally posted by timebombprod View Post
    clearance for the shim is .04, i can get it out of the cup holding it, but it will not budge when trying to pull it out from inbetween. any tricks for it? thinking of finding a way to push it out instead of pull but the back wont raise up at all once i get it out the cup from the topside.
    You didnt say anything about what method you are using to hold the valve open.......

    .

    Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
    GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl


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      #3
      Yah, somewhat push it out.
      Need a little flat screwdriver anyway to pry it up (that little slot in edge of bucket). Kinda hold the upper edge with tweezers or small 90degree needle nose plyiers, and push on the lower edge with the little screw driver till the shim clears enough to hold with tweezers-pyliers.

      Installing one back is a different story.

      Both require the bucket depressed / valve held open.
      Last edited by Redman; 03-20-2020, 02:32 PM.

      Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
      GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl


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        #4
        i been doing the ziptie method and having the lobe point all the way up when ziptie has already been inserted. gonna go at it again in a bit with the method you gave
        Ian

        1982 GS650GLZ
        1982 XS650

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by timebombprod View Post
          i been doing the ziptie method and having the lobe point all the way up when ziptie has already been inserted. gonna go at it again in a bit with the method you gave
          Ziptie method has worked for many folks. (I havent done it, so I cant give too much advice.)
          But Sounds like are not getting enough clearance between the bucket and the cam (bucket not down enough) if the shim is not free between the bucket and the cam. If the shim is getting stuck hard, comes to a hard stop, then probably doesnt matter how you are trying to hold it or push it.

          You getting a couple thickness of the ziptie in there between the valve and valve seat?
          You pushing the valve bucket down?

          Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
          GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl


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            #6
            dont know if this is what you meant, but i ended up making a new ziptie tool because the one i was using had been worn down, the new one made it as easy as can be to get the new shim out
            Ian

            1982 GS650GLZ
            1982 XS650

            Comment


              #7
              so i guess this will be my tip, if you're having trouble getting a shim out and you're doing the ziptie method, maybe make a new one if the old one is worn out, itll add some clearance.
              Ian

              1982 GS650GLZ
              1982 XS650

              Comment


                #8
                Mine don't come out real easy either, here's what works for me. As Redman mentioned, I also use a very fine (eyeglass sized) screwdriver in the bucket slot to lift the shim. Then, using a second ziptie (to avoid scratching) I nudge it from the opposite direction up the shaft of the screwdriver. When it binds, the shim is far enough out of the bucket to not slide back in and I slide the screwdriver out while maintaining a push with the ziptie to get it as far put of the rest of the bucket that I can. At that point I use a magnetic screwdriver on the end of the shom to pull it out.

                Tip: Put a clean, fresh rag into the valley formed by the timing chain, you don't want to fish a shim out from down there in case you drop it!
                1980 Yamaha XS1100G (Current bike)
                1982 GS450txz (former bike)
                LONG list of previous bikes not listed here.

                These aren't my words, I just arrange them

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                  #9
                  Also, I have had the oil present under the shim cause a hydraulic lock on the shim from time to time, try to soak up the oil as much as possible with some clean rags, if you have compressed air handy use that to displace the oil as much as you can too. You might be surprised what an effect that film of 10w40 has. I also use locking forceps to bite on the shim once it pops out of the bucket, they are like what the doctors use during surgery, those shims are hard I have not worried about scratching them. Cracking them like glass is more probable.
                  1981 Suzuki GS250T
                  1982 Yamaha Seca Turbo
                  1985 Suzuki GS550E
                  2004 Suzuki GSF1200S

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                    #10
                    Use a magnet.
                    #1: 1979 GS 550 EC "Red" – Very first Bike / Overhaul thread        New here? ☛ Read the Top 10 Newbie mistakes thread
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                    #3: 2014 Moto Guzzi V7 II Racer – One needs a runner while wrenching
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                      #11
                      Never use a magnet! The shim or bucket can be magnetized and attract metal shavings. It's in the manual, I believe.
                      Ron
                      When I die, just cremate me and put me in my GS tank. That way I can go through these carbs, one more time!
                      1978 GS750E - November 2017 BOTM
                      1978 GS1000C - May 2021 BOTM
                      1982 GS1100E
                      1999 Honda GL1500SE

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                        #12
                        For years, I fished them out with a small screwdriver and a pair of long fine-nosed pliers. Last year, I discovered the delights of the clamping artery forceps with a bend on the end.
                        They're quite cheap, actually.
                        ---- Dave
                        79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
                        80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
                        79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
                        92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

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                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by fbody_mike View Post
                          Cracking them like glass is more probable.
                          Especially if your official tool slips off the side of the bucket when the shim is not quite seated in the bucket.





                          Originally posted by roeme View Post
                          Use a magnet.
                          Originally posted by 1978GS750E View Post
                          Never use a magnet! The shim or bucket can be magnetized and attract metal shavings. It's in the manual, I believe.
                          I have used a small magnet to remove shims for over 40 years. I have never noticed any shavings, probably because I change my oil filter at regular intervals, not to mention that there are probably no "shavings" in the engine to start with.

                          My Suzuki manual for my 850 only mentions using the special tool to remove the shim (it looks like a pair of tweezers), there is no mention, or caution, about using a magnet.

                          .
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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Grimly View Post
                            ...clamping artery forceps...
                            The Hemostat! Best damn roach clip ever made.
                            1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                            2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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                              #15
                              I know at least one of my aftermarket manuals has the magnet warning, but as Steve said it's not in the FSM.

                              If you're grabbing from the edge using a reasonable magnet, it's hard to see how it could do any harm. If you're using some sort of super-magnet in the middle where the cam lobe slides across, I suppose that could cause issues. But as Steve said, if you have that many ferrous shavings that make it past the drain plug magnet and through the screens and filter up to the cylinder head, a few shavings sticking to the shim is probably the very least of your troubles.

                              I generally just use a big pair of tweezers.

                              Don't bother cleaning the oil out -- you need that film of oil and its surface tension when you install the replacement shim.


                              Also, reading between the lines of a few recent posts, one step I think a lot of folks are missing is to turn the crank a few times before re-checking the clearances to squish out the excess oil and make sure the shims have been fully seated into the buckets. I generally go for at least two cycles, so at least four revolutions of the crank.
                              Last edited by bwringer; 03-22-2020, 10:34 AM.
                              1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
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