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getting a stuck shim out

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    #31
    Originally posted by bwringer View Post
    I know at least one of my aftermarket manuals has the magnet warning, but as Steve said it's not in the FSM.

    If you're grabbing from the edge using a reasonable magnet, it's hard to see how it could do any harm. If you're using some sort of super-magnet in the middle where the cam lobe slides across, I suppose that could cause issues. But as Steve said, if you have that many ferrous shavings that make it past the drain plug magnet and through the screens and filter up to the cylinder head, a few shavings sticking to the shim is probably the very least of your troubles.

    I generally just use a big pair of tweezers.

    Don't bother cleaning the oil out -- you need that film of oil and its surface tension when you install the replacement shim.


    Also, reading between the lines of a few recent posts, one step I think a lot of folks are missing is to turn the crank a few times before re-checking the clearances to squish out the excess oil and make sure the shims have been fully seated into the buckets. I generally go for at least two cycles, so at least four revolutions of the crank.

    An item can only be magnetized by passing it through a magnetic field. AN item being picked up by a magnet will suffer very little impact.

    Try this with a screwdriver tip. Touch it once with a magnet and note how it does not become perceptibly magnetized.

    Then pass it through the same magnets field a few dozen times and note the difference.

    Data tape degausser we had in the server farm worked on same principle. You laid the tapes on a tray that moved them around through the fields coming from beneath.
    1983 GS 550 LD
    2009 BMW K1300s

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      #32
      Yes, i remember that you rub a magnet over a surface to magnetize it....reorients the atoms?

      You can magnetize in a dc field and demagnetize with an ac field...I actually have an old cassette tape head demagnetizer that works on screwdrivers that annoy me.

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        #33
        Originally posted by LAB3 View Post
        Some sources say the R means removable tip (unscrew cap for stud) while others definitely label them as resistor. Since my caps are already 5k I didn't think it was a good idea to add more.
        Even when I walk into Auzo Zone and ask for NGK B8ES plugs, they have to look up a part number.

        Then they walk back to their stock shelf and come back with boxes of B8ES plugs and tell me that it's part number 2411. I just did a quick search for "NGK 2411" and got hits from Auto Zone, O'Reilleys, Advance Auto Parts and even Wal-Mart. If you have the luxury of ordering online, they are also available at Summit Racing.

        My suggestion would be to just ask for NGK 2411 plugs.

        .
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          #34
          Originally posted by Steve View Post
          Even when I walk into Auzo Zone and ask for NGK B8ES plugs, they have to look up a part number.

          Then they walk back to their stock shelf and come back with boxes of B8ES plugs and tell me that it's part number 2411. I just did a quick search for "NGK 2411" and got hits from Auto Zone, O'Reilleys, Advance Auto Parts and even Wal-Mart. If you have the luxury of ordering online, they are also available at Summit Racing.

          My suggestion would be to just ask for NGK 2411 plugs.

          .
          Yep, that's the one 2411. There's three auto parts stores here in Branson, all of them O'Reilly. As mentioned, they cannot pull it up on their terminal and order it, takes a call to someone Monday-Friday during working hours and you need to order at least eight of them. The trip to the next town was Auto Zone, wasn't going to make an order there due to distance and opted for an online source. Did find them for $2 each this morning on line, they're on the way.
          1980 Yamaha XS1100G (Current bike)
          1982 GS450txz (former bike)
          LONG list of previous bikes not listed here.

          These aren't my words, I just arrange them

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            #35
            Originally posted by Grimly View Post
            In my own case I'm running non-resistor lead and caps along with BR8ES, but if I wasn't doing that, I'd want standard B8ES instead. I won't be happy if I can't get standard plugs when I need them.
            .

            Not sure how long resistor caps last, mine where swapped out from factory original two years/20k miles ago. Makes senses to swap them, I'll probably do that next time.
            1980 Yamaha XS1100G (Current bike)
            1982 GS450txz (former bike)
            LONG list of previous bikes not listed here.

            These aren't my words, I just arrange them

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