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    Leaking Fork Seals <3000km

    Hi all,

    I have had a suzukig gs250t for about a year now and I am prepping for its annual service post exams. When I got the bike I serviced everything, and it has all been going well, bar for some mysterious hiccups with the carburettor that have self-resolved, alongside a new voltage regulator/rectifier.

    I noticed yesterday after a short ride that there was a significant amount of oil leaking from the left hand fork, enough to have half the engine covered in dirty oil and to be dripping down the dust seal. I've only put on just under 3000km and I'm not a particularly aggressive rider. I serviced and replaced the seals in both fork legs, which were in terrible condition when I bought the bike, bottomed out, and filled with grunge.

    There was a small bit of a leak before, but with the forks being 40 years old, I wasn't too alarmed. There were striations on the inner fork. The leak is suddenly far worse now and I am worried about the fork bottoming out. I was going to use the bike to work as a courier through the lockdown after exams but this has thrown a bit of a spanner into the works.

    I will be able to get the forks etc.. apart by the middle of may, but I wanted to ask what you guys had to say on the matter and if you knew of any quick fixes to keep the bike on the road until I can check the seals. You guys have experience working with older bikes and I'd appreciate your advice.

    Thank you in advance.

    Jake.

    #2
    see this current thread. Worth a shot.
    Rich
    1982 GS 750TZ
    2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

    BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
    Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks Rich, will check it out.

      Had to take an emergency trip out to the dentist just there, the oil is leaking all the way down the fork now ...

      Comment


        #4
        given that there were striations and that the suspension was in bad nick when I bought the bike, does anyone have any tips in case the inner tube is worn to bits. I.e.doesnt seal due to being very worn? is there a paste that can be applied at each seal replacement to help or something? When I checked it last it was pretty bad, not the worst, but quite bad.

        Comment


          #5
          You can fill the small pits with epoxy after a good cleaning with carb cleaner or solvent.... then sand back smooth. Essentially the sharp edges of the pits catch & tear the rubber of the seal....
          1980 GS1000G - Sold
          1978 GS1000E - Finished!
          1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
          1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
          2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
          1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
          2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

          www.parasiticsanalytics.com

          TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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            #6
            I buffed my forks with my grinder setup, a mop with white rouge. I was surprised how many little visible imperfections came out. Heard that super glue works too on the pits but all I've ever glued with that stuff is my fingers.
            Tom

            '82 GS1100E Mr. Turbo
            '79 GS100E
            Other non Suzuki bikes

            Comment


              #7
              These sound like great ideas, I'll have the forks apart soon and I'll see what the damage is.

              Thanks.

              Comment


                #8
                just as an added thought, if you have any heavy machinery places about, they might advise. Hydraulic rams have a lot of the same issues ( front-end loaders, farm equipment, bulldozers...) Even your local farmer will likely know something.

                Or...you might find replacements on ebay etc. This worked for me versus repair.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thats some fantastic advice, my family used to operate lots of drilling equipment, seals would go all the time. My first thought is to check for dings and scratches, do a bit of a polish and then cut/tighten the spring around the seal if it hasn't torn. If that doesnt end up working I will bring it around to a seal maker and ask them about it, as is often the case in Ireland they may just want me to replace the entire thing. I'll give the epoxy/superglue idea a go then. I will be pulling the fork off tomorrow if theres no threat of rain. I am not placed right now for a replacement for anything barely even fork seals, this covid thing has me even more smashed than I normally am haha.

                  I'll let you know whats up asap.

                  Thanks.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I pulled the dust seal and probed with a feeler gauge in case there was any dirt, the oil had built up a little bit and was milky pink, which is indicative of water right... wiped it down with blue roll and took the bike for a 15 min spin with the dust seal off, extending and compressing the forks periodically. Stopped twice throughout to check for streaks and leaks etc... didnt really see anything significant though, but the milky oil tells me something isnt right. I shouldnt need to change fork oil that frequently... I will take it out for an hour tomorrow in some bumpy spots to check again before pulling. If the leak has stopped then I dont want to disturb the seal and would rather just change out the oil. Let me know what you think.

                    Thanks

                    Comment


                      #11
                      milky by itself whatever colour IS probably water. If the Fairies came by and fixed it in the night, maybe they peed in there too.

                      The Pinkish" sounds like Automatic Transmission Fluid was used as fork oil, which is perfectly ok. Some Suzuki bikes call for a mix of motor oil and atf. (I think yours might) so fork oil changes are very economical.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Yeah I thought so, didnt want to come across as cocky haha. I pulled the fork off the bike and drained the milky mess, went to pull the damper rod but I cannot get enough friction for the life of me, its on quite tightly and I did use some light threadlock when I serviced it last as recommended by a friend. Unfortunatley I am by myself this time and I only have the allen key, my body and the bike to remove the darn thing, but it just keeps slipping. Does anyone have any recommendations on how to remove it? I dont have a vice or anything.

                        Thanks.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          You can make something like this from a broom handle and shove it down into the top of the damper rod. Hold it steady with one hand and work the Allen key with the other.

                          Last edited by Rich82GS750TZ; 05-04-2020, 12:15 PM.
                          Rich
                          1982 GS 750TZ
                          2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

                          BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
                          Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Many thanks Rich, was able to use a makeshift rod to do similarly, got it off nice and easily.

                            Attached is a photo of the stanchion, it unfortunatly has some dings as shown in the photo, the rest of the rod is in very good nick, it must have been the other one which had more severe striations.

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                            I am uncertain how to approach these as I am aware that the chrome on these rods is very, very thin, and I don't have the money or equipment to buff or rechrome. I might be able to get a mechanic to buff these out, what are the chances these have been rechromed?

                            thanks.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              You can dress those pits up with some 1000 grade emery paper. Just enough to blend the edges in and buy some more time - possibly years if you do it right.
                              ---- Dave
                              79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
                              80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
                              79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
                              92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

                              Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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